Raptor Crank in a SHO!

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Performance Upgrades' started by Jordan_R, May 29, 2020.

  1. Jordan_R

    Jordan_R Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock

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    I guess I should say that this is the High Output 3.5L Ecoboost crank, but raptor is more fun. I thought I would make a post separately for this as I think this is some good information for anybody going through a big build. This is all of the items you need for the Raptor Ecoboost to work in your SHO.

    Crankshaft part number:
    [​IMG]

    Crank Timing Sprocket:
    [​IMG]

    16+ Updated Pulley:
    [​IMG]

    So here is the deal. I knew this was possible from some other engine builders doing so, just didn't hear anything from them on how to do it. Which I absolutely understand sometimes you keep information to yourself on things like this but wanted to share it with y'all.

    Reasoning for the different crank timing sprockets (both 29 teeth and same tooth spacing) is because the snout of the crank shaft on the raptor crank is slightly different. In fact while talking with my parts guy he found out that if you are to order a new short block from ford it has the same style of updated crank and states you need this 16+ crank pulley and the updated crank timing sprocket. So this should be everything you need. All the ecoboost bearings are the same so everything crosses over in that same sense. However always make sure you double check all your bearings etc etc yada yada.

    [​IMG]

    So for anybody looking for a little bit of a better set up, not that our cranks are weak by any means, here is how you do it! I haven't put out any footage on this yet on the youtube channel just because waiting for more parts to come in, but figured this was a good tid bit of information I had to share. I'll update this down the road once I have everything in the engine but this SHOULD be it. I don't see why anything else would need changed because of it due to the updated short blocks having these parts anyways. Let me know if you guys have any questions!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
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  2. Michigan-SHO

    Michigan-SHO SHO Member

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    Have you found any discernible differences between the cranks that lends you to believe the raptor crank is better than the 16+ SHO? Or are you just going by the SAE HP AND TQ numbers? Not trying to pick a fight, just genuinely curious.


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  3. Ecoboost_xsport

    Ecoboost_xsport SHO Member

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    Yup, this is the setup going into most of the full engine builds that are coming out of various shops these days. I know the engine I'm currently having Ryan do has one in it.

    BTW, Looks like you're starting down that "well, since I'm here, I might as well add (insert high performance EcoBoost part here)" road, lol. I hate it sometimes, it's a curse, I swear. My builds always start out "mild" and by the time I'm done...its way more than mild, lol...
     
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  4. Jordan_R

    Jordan_R Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock

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    Going off Matt @ gearhead recommended it as stronger and RMB puts it in a lot of his built motor builds. That's what I'm basing it off of! Nobody has ever broken a crank so honestly I can't say it's stronger just the price is the same and you may as well. I'd like to think Ford would step it up with the mo powah tho on the high output one.
     
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  5. BKiller

    BKiller Member

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    I’m shocked that crank is under $200!
     
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  6. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    You going to mill off the blank pulley on the crank pulley?
     
  7. Jordan_R

    Jordan_R Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock

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    Haven't gotten that far yet but possibly
     
  8. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    I'll be milling my pre-2016 pulley on Tuesday.. unless something happens
     
  9. shoblock

    shoblock SHO Member

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    After watching these motors being built for over 8 years, I'm amazed at what I don't know. I would've GUESSED that due to the water pump running off the timing chain on the SHO motors, and using an external water pump on the Raptors, (same as the Navigator), that the front balancer and rear flywheel bolt sizes, balance compensation, sizing, etc. would be different. Of course, when you have the two complete assemblies side by side on a table, it would be obvious what has to be used to achieve full fitment front to rear. I would assume that balancing the assembly is part of the build. If everything fits, I would be surprised if there was anything but a minor chemistry difference between the two cranks. A little extra nickle or Chrome woudn't hurt......
    Shoblock
     
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