Radar Detector Hardwire on 18 SHO

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - General Discusson' started by VibraSHO, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    Thought I’d do a quick post on a radar detector install I did today. For those wondering, I’m running a Uniden R7. Will be doing a AntiLaser Priority install next if anyone is interested in seeing that. Anyways. Straight to it.

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    These are the only tools I used to complete the actual hardwire install. The hardwire kit came with the detector as a packaged deal. The rest was straight from Advanced Auto Parts.

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    I chose this location because on the left side of the mirror, it impeded too much of my vision when looking ahead.

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    I routed the cable straight into the headliner. Just took a small amount of pressure (no prying) to get the cable in there.

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    Ran it across the headliner to the driver side windshield pillar.

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    Ran across the pillar and into the weather strip.

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    All the way down to the kick plate.

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    Into here, this will allow for you to come up and mount the remote wherever you want.

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    I chose to mount mine here above the dimmer switch. To remove this panel, I used a 7mm socket.

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    This is the semi-finished “flush” mount. To do this I drilled a couple holes straight through the plastic, used a dremil and air saw (just made it easier) and finished with a large hand file and sandpaper.

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    A view from the back, I got the uniden remote as flush as possible and used JB Weld on the back side as pictured. I let it set for 4 hours.

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    I used a vampire clip (blue) to secure the end of the remote to my add-a-circuit.

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    I plugged this into a 5 fuse and used a 3 fuse for the detector. I just picked one from my user manual that I knew was only powered when the car is on. I tried to use one of the “extra” unused 5 fuse slots but it did not work.

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    As pictured. I used the bottom left bolt that attaches the plate to the floorboard that runs the starring column through the drive shaft.

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    Next I found this clip bracket had to me modified to fit the depth of the remote.

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    That worked perfectly. Used a dremil and diamond bit adapter.

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    Finished product for the remote.

    Overall was a simple 2-3 hour job. Would only take about 30 minutes if you’re just using the double sided tape to mount the remote somewhere.


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  2. SM105K

    SM105K Streetlight Grand Prix Champ

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    Looks good. Thank you for the write up.
     
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  3. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    I would like to know more about your fuse tap. I have had no luck with the micro style fuse taps in the interior fuse box. The tall plastic walls between the fuse rows keeps me from setting the tap all the way in.
     
  4. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    So the mini fuse tap I used had standard length prongs. When I looked under there I was worried about those walls as well being too high for the tap. However, the fuses that this car uses were low profile making the standard mini fit nicely.

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  5. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    OOH, so you used a standard mini fuse tap in the interior fuse box? That was my problem, I used a low profile mini fuse tap.
     
  6. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    Nice work! When I installed my V1 a couple years ago, I used a similar fuse tap to a "key on" fuse and ran the cable up the A pillar, too.

    I've mounted detectors up over the mirror in my cars for many years and one good trick I came up with was to use some emblem tape on a clear piece of plexiglass.

    This way, the suction cups stick to the matrix stuff on the windshield. In the SHO, I cut a small piece and only put the emblem tape on the part where it would go on the matrix stuff on the windshield. My V1 is above the rear view mirror.

    It's almost invisible and really hides the V1 from the outside. I think I wrote it up on this forum, a quick search under my name should find it.
     
  7. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    Ahh that’s a great idea, I’ll look for sure. I’ll get a picture from the outside, it’s not visible because my whole front windshield is tinted slightly. I couldn’t mount in that spot because of the camera thing that has a huge plastic box around it.


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  8. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    Yes, by accident. I didn’t realize they were low profile when I crawled under to look at the fuses. So I bought the regular mini fuse tap and it worked perfectly. Still no issues.


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  9. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    Looking back at the picture, I’d need a different mount to get it above the mirror. I may shop around, I really like that idea. The mount I have now is as high up in the windshield as it’ll go.


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  10. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    I couldn't't find the post...so here are a couple pics of where the V1 is now and the plastic piece that allows the suction cups to stick that high up on the window.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 4, 2020
  11. Charles Ferrigno

    Charles Ferrigno New Member

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    Matt, that looks good. I will probably mount my V1 there too. Do you think it reduces any of the signals from the rear?
     
  12. VibraSHO

    VibraSHO Member

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    It might, but it would only be slight. Most cops aren’t running I/O from the rear and you shouldn’t have an issue with rear detection too much splatter.


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