PTU Oil change on a Performance Package (P.P.) w/ pictures

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Johnbigdog, Apr 14, 2019.

  1. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    My PTU was replaced aboot 30K ago on my '16 SHO, it was about time for me to figure out this PTU gear oil change. I did it *mostly* by the book. I like to do it this way first before i try to short cut stuff. I figured I take some pictures and help some of you out.

    I located the one time use parts.
    (2) - 7T4Z-9450-AA - Cat to flex pipe, and muffler gaskets
    (1) - AA5Z-6L612-A - Turbo to catalyst muffler gasket
    (3) - W712829-S900 - Turbo to catalyst studs (comes in a package of 4, 7mm head)
    (5) - W714265-S441 - Turbo to catalyst nuts and flex pipe nuts (comes in package of 4, 15mm)
    Note, you're supposed to replace the temp sensor o-ring, i did not.

    Tools:
    Blue wrench (AKA map torch)
    6mm Allen
    T30 torx
    15mm socket (exhaust fasteners)
    8mm socket (hose clamp for turb0 inlet tube)
    7mm socket (turbo studs)
    13mm crow foot (for temp sensor) or a modified 13mm deep socket with a slit similar to an O2 socket
    3/8 and 1/4 extensions/adapters
    Optional:
    tap and die set and bolt extractor #2 craftsman
    3/8 to 1/4 barbed fitting.
    gear oil pump
    Soft or hard drink(s) of your choice.

    First, Open the hood and disconnect the right bank (Bank 1) upstream O2 sensor. The right hand would be standing behind the transmission looking to the crank pulley. This connector is near the right front valve cover, just below the valve cover itself.
    20190412_173430.jpg

    its down there, really.

    20190412_173520.jpg

    I pulled the connector up so you can kinda see it.

    Second, safely jack and support the car. Remove the right front wheel. Torque the lug nuts to 100 lb-ft

    20190412_172931.jpg

    Once you get the car lifted, remove the flex pipe. Use the blue wrench. Both the nuts and the bolts have a torque spec of 30 lb/ft.

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    Looking up at the PTU, disconnect the downstream O2 sensor (B1S2 blue wire). The upper right corner of the photo, that the PTU flange.
    6.1.jpg


    Unbolt the catalyst from the turbo. Use the blue wrench to get the nuts hot. The studs can be reused. The nuts are one time use. The studs are torqued to 18 lb/ft. The nuts 30 lb/ft twice. I had one stud come out. I decided to replace all three. Heat up the flange of the turbo with the blue wrench. I tapped the threads (M10x1.5) on the turbo because i wanted to. The threads are interference fit. They don't like coming in and out, and why I tapped them.
    7.jpg

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    I does come out, Twist and turn, be careful of the upstream O2 sensor wires.

    9.jpg

    Now you can see the PTU, however you need to remove a shroud to get access to the fill plug. ITS REALLY EASY, JUST ONE BOLT!

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    I removed the intake to the turbo in my frustration to get this screw out. I almost removed the turbo drain tube, but the installer did not torque to the bolt to 89 lb/in and the bolt head stripped. So i gave up that end-ever. I didn't want to be replacing a turbo too.

    Hopefully this trick will save you about 45 min. AND we move on... OH, don't remove the bolt completely, the shroud is slotted, and will bend out of the way with this one bolt removed. Its not fun to put back in. The torque spec is 106 lb/in. Since i could not get on it directly, i used blue lock tight and German specs.

    13.jpg
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    Now comes the fun of removing the temp sensor. Here is the temp sensor connector on the other side of the PTU near the down stream O2.

    15.jpg

    This will allow you to twist the connector when removing the sensor.

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    Its all about the angle of the dangle

    17.jpg

    Once you get the sensor lose, you can remove with your fingers. The O-Ring on the sensor is supposed to be one time use. Read that after the fact.

    Shrugs.

    18.jpg

    I wasn't originally concerned about the drain plug, until I wiped off the magnet. The oil drained was dark, not gritty. The metallic surrounding the magnet was the same size as the plug. I thought it was the plug until i wiped it off.

    20.jpg

    I installed a barbed fitting so i could back fill the PTU and drain it a few times.

    19.jpg


    By hand I rotated the tires so it worked the PTU to clean the old oil out. The Fill plug and temp sensor is not standard pipe thread. I used the fitting to neck down the tube for the pump i bought to refill the PTU again.

    21.jpg

    Resemble the reverse of assembly.

    Remember to stay hydrated!
     
    shaker281, glockcoma, 6500rpm and 3 others like this.
  2. Jeff2017

    Jeff2017 SHO Member

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    That is a lot of work to drain and fill 18 oz. of fluid. Thanks Ford! Good write up!
     
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  3. Zpak

    Zpak Member

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    Well sure, Ford says it never needs to be done remember?
     
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  4. CCXVI

    CCXVI SHO Member Supporting Member

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    Damn, I've been wanting to do this since the weather got warmer, but of course my downpipes are welded into the new exhaust :/ Hopefully it's doable without the exhaust being removed.
     
  5. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member Supporting Member

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    Yes it is. Check the HOW TO section on ecoboostperformanceforum.com
     
    Hebes10 likes this.
  6. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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  7. shaker281

    shaker281 SHO Member

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    Canadian, eh? LOL

    Nice write-up. And excellent work.

    And a very good reason to avoid the PP, especially if you also do not want summer only performance tires.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2019
  8. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    Northern Minnesota, aboot 1 hour south of I-falls.

    It's kinda funny I work closer to the canadian boarder now that I'm in michigain, but the accent is not that heavy here. Go to the U.P. and oh boy, dontcha know, eh!
     
    jtreber, SHOdded and shaker281 like this.

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