piston ring swap with engine in car

yaycandy

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me new ring gap is wider than spec. ford messed up one or the other, which would it be?

I doubt Ford messed it up. These aint AMG engines built by one person and signed. These are mass produced engines, the piston rings went on the pistons pre gapped even before it knew what block it was going into. Ive had my engine tore down by me, an engineer with state journeyman aerospace machinist papers. Took nearly a hundred measurements of every aspect of the rotating assembly and valve train. Reassembled the engine, sent it to Texas Ford engine R&D and refurb plant and they gave me back the same exact measurements i had. So we both know how to read mics and indicators. You probably dont know how to gap a piston ring or how to even check the gap on a piston ring.
You are also checking it in a wore out cylinder to begin with :rolleyes:, while the block is in your car.

I love Jordan but he had issues with his rebuild also, and he mostly knew what he was doing at the same time. This is not easy to do, not as bad as the 3.0l sho engine but not as easy as a low rpm big block with tons of play everywhere.

Have fun with the rebuild! I hope you learn alot from it.

Run a bore gauge down the cylinder before you hone it. preferably a mititoyo, brown & sharpe or starrett. You get what you pay for with cheap indicators, or **** try a Fowler ive seen good with them and they are cheap.

If you need me to come put your engine back together just PM me
 
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withku

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I doubt Ford messed it up. These aint AMG engines built by one person and signed. These are mass produced engines, the piston rings went on the pistons pre gapped even before it knew what block it was going into. Ive had my engine tore down by me, an engineer with state journeyman aerospace machinist papers. Took nearly a hundred measurements of every aspect of the rotating assembly and valve train. Reassembled the engine, sent it to Texas Ford engine R&D and refurb plant and they gave me back the same exact measurements i had. So we both know how to read mics and indicators. You probably dont know how to gap a piston ring or how to even check the gap on a piston ring.
You are also checking it in a wore out cylinder to begin with :rolleyes:, while the block is in your car.

I love Jordan but he had issues with his rebuild also, and he mostly knew what he was doing at the same time. This is not easy to do, not as bad as the 3.0l sho engine but not as easy as a low rpm big block with tons of play everywhere.

Have fun with the rebuild! I hope you learn alot from it.

Run a bore gauge down the cylinder before you hone it. preferably a mititoyo, brown & sharpe or starrett. You get what you pay for with cheap indicators, or **** try a Fowler ive seen good with them and they are cheap.

If you need me to come put your engine back together just PM me
the course i received my carts through is aviation maintenance technology, it’s regulated. i’m not new to micrometers and feeler gauges
 

stripSHO

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3.64” side to side 3.642” top to bottom , no taper. cheap gauges though
If you're not using a reliable dial bore gauge and high quality micrometer that you have absolute confidence in then you might as well use a tape measure. The fact that you're not recording to four decimals speaks volumes about the abilities of both you and your tools. Stop trying to prove you're something you're not.

What you don't appear to comprehend is that it only takes .0006" of extra bore to add full .002" to a ring gap. So if you're shipped rings at the outer limit for a standard bore and then fit them in your worn cylinder, then you easily end up with out of spec rings. And if you had any experience you would know that sometimes receiving new parts that are outside of recommended tolerance for use with used components, or even all new components, is just a simple fact of life. But despite wider gap being what you wanted, you're still whining?

Oh btw based on your measurements, that cylinder out-of-round is 4x an acceptable limit:eeeeeek:. But I'm sure you already knew that since u is so learnt all of a sudden.
 

withku

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If you're not using a reliable dial bore gauge and high quality micrometer that you have absolute confidence in then you might as well use a tape measure. The fact that you're not recording to four decimals speaks volumes about the abilities of both you and your tools. Stop trying to prove you're something you're not.

What you don't appear to comprehend is that it only takes .0006" of extra bore to add full .002" to a ring gap. So if you're shipped rings at the outer limit for a standard bore and then fit them in your worn cylinder, then you easily end up with out of spec rings. And if you had any experience you would know that sometimes receiving new parts that are outside of recommended tolerance for use with used components, or even all new components, is just a simple fact of life. But despite wider gap being what you wanted, you're still whining?

Oh btw based on your measurements, that cylinder out-of-round is 4x an acceptable limit:eeeeeek:. But I'm sure you already knew that since u is so learnt all of a sudden.
i’ll deal with .002” , not too bad
 

SM105K

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why does my age matter? you seem pretty irritated
Age has alot to do with things. Just because you understand the theory of how something works, doesn't mean you fully understand the practical application. Practical application takes time, and with time comes the experience.
 

withku

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Age has alot to do with things. Just because you understand the theory of how something works, doesn't mean you fully understand the practical application. Practical application takes time, and with time comes the experience.
bro i know my measurements are accurate enough, there’s zero reason for me to try convince you. i’m not stopping you from thinking otherwise :)
 

luigisho

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bro i know my measurements are accurate enough, there’s zero reason for me to try convince you. i’m not stopping you from thinking otherwise :)
To be honest, that's a mature attitude. People twice your age would continue to argue and flig doo doo. I'll tip my cap to that.
 

SM105K

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bro i know my measurements are accurate enough, there’s zero reason for me to try convince you. i’m not stopping you from thinking otherwise :)

Refer back to @stripSHO response below. FWIW, I don't believe your measurements are accurate.

If you're not using a reliable dial bore gauge and high quality micrometer that you have absolute confidence in then you might as well use a tape measure. The fact that you're not recording to four decimals speaks volumes about the abilities of both you and your tools. Stop trying to prove you're something you're not.

What you don't appear to comprehend is that it only takes .0006" of extra bore to add full .002" to a ring gap. So if you're shipped rings at the outer limit for a standard bore and then fit them in your worn cylinder, then you easily end up with out of spec rings. And if you had any experience you would know that sometimes receiving new parts that are outside of recommended tolerance for use with used components, or even all new components, is just a simple fact of life. But despite wider gap being what you wanted, you're still whining?

Oh btw based on your measurements, that cylinder out-of-round is 4x an acceptable limit:eeeeeek:. But I'm sure you already knew that since u is so learnt all of a sudden.
 

withku

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I doubt Ford messed it up. These aint AMG engines built by one person and signed. These are mass produced engines, the piston rings went on the pistons pre gapped even before it knew what block it was going into. Ive had my engine tore down by me, an engineer with state journeyman aerospace machinist papers. Took nearly a hundred measurements of every aspect of the rotating assembly and valve train. Reassembled the engine, sent it to Texas Ford engine R&D and refurb plant and they gave me back the same exact measurements i had. So we both know how to read mics and indicators. You probably dont know how to gap a piston ring or how to even check the gap on a piston ring.
You are also checking it in a wore out cylinder to begin with :rolleyes:, while the block is in your car.

I love Jordan but he had issues with his rebuild also, and he mostly knew what he was doing at the same time. This is not easy to do, not as bad as the 3.0l sho engine but not as easy as a low rpm big block with tons of play everywhere.

Have fun with the rebuild! I hope you learn alot from it.

Run a bore gauge down the cylinder before you hone it. preferably a mititoyo, brown & sharpe or starrett. You get what you pay for with cheap indicators, or **** try a Fowler ive seen good with them and they are cheap.

If you need me to come put your engine back together just PM me

“i doubt ford messed it up”. pulled another piston, #4. upper ring gap is .017”. oh my god what a ******* surprise, the 17 year old that doesn’t know how to use a feeler gauge was right!
 

yaycandy

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“i doubt ford messed it up”. pulled another piston, #4. upper ring gap is .017”. oh my god what a ******* surprise, the 17 year old that doesn’t know how to use a feeler gauge was right!
.017 is way to big even for a wore out cylinder. Must be checking it differently. Whats the free gap on a comparator read?
 
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Bluezone

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#4 piston upper ring gap is .017”. you gonna tell me i’m not good enough with feeler gauges? :oogle: those are very erratic measurements even for a beginner
I'm going to ask kind of a stupid question. But I thought I'd just make sure. You are measuring the Piston Ring Gap, with the ring installed level in the cylinder(meaning about an inch down), when you're measuring the gap?
 
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withku

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I'm going to ask kind of a stupid question. But I thought I'd just make sure. You are measuring the Piston Ring Gap, with the ring installed level in the cylinder(meaning about an inch down), when you're measuring the gap?
yes, centered in bore with the piston.
 
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