piston ring swap with engine in car

luigisho

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Easy access for for cleaning that valve gunk too. I suppose pushing on the pistons would still have too much resistance. I wonder if there is a way to use the chain and sprocket to turn it. Not sure how much more resistance t ranny engagement even in neutral makes turning it while connected in this setup. Spitballing. Never did something like this with motor in car except with rod bearings. But I had a normal crank bolt available to rotate the assembly. can't believe I have to play with the word t ranny on a car board. so stupid.
 

withku

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Easy access for for cleaning that valve gunk too. I suppose pushing on the pistons would still have too much resistance. I wonder if there is a way to use the chain and sprocket to turn it. Not sure how much more resistance t ranny engagement even in neutral makes turning it while connected in this setup. Spitballing. Never did something like this with motor in car except with rod bearings. But I had a normal crank bolt available to rotate the assembly. can't believe I have to play with the word t ranny on a car board. so stupid.

well i can turn the crank with the bolt, but if any lh valves are open the pistons will hit them.
 

351Blueblood

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Just pull back cams out. This will help when you clean out ports and valves anyway. Once you drop oil pan you will then have to drop lower engine block girdle to remove rod bolts. All bolts are torque to yield too. I bought new some reuse but not me on rod bolts.
 

withku

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Just pull back cams out. This will help when you clean out ports and valves anyway. Once you drop oil pan you will then have to drop lower engine block girdle to remove rod bolts. All bolts are torque to yield too. I bought new some reuse but not me on rod bolts.

i will do that. with timing components, can i re use any if my chain was loose? guides , chains, and tensioners i’ll replace but can i re use cam sprockets and vct sensor/housings? i’ve been looking for a full set but can’t find any.
 

351Blueblood

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I did my piston rings wrist pin and clips headgasket head bolts rod bearings rod bolts lower block girdle bolts timing chain WP timing chain tensioner new pass head upper improved guide with its 2 mounting bolts 1 phaser bolt and crank bolt and crank seal.
 

withku

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Good point. I didn't notice the other head was still on.

got oil pan out but shattered my finger in the process, gonna be slow from now on. cyl 5 walls looks fine but i still have the piston in.
 

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withku

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Sorry to hear about that hope your ok. We wanna see that piston!

so chunks of my piston are just missing. also not sure if rod caps, section that mates with rod, should be flat? the surface is jagged. rod bearings are scratched all way around.

i’m terrified i damaged something though, didn’t know main cap support brace had a bolt pattern for removal. should i replace the brace or just bolts?

will be ordering parts tonight, piston head included.
 

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351Blueblood

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The rod caps are "cracked" off the main beam of rod from factory. Told ya your piston would be smoked. When I ordered my piston is did not come with wrist pin and C clips. You need to make sure you didn't spin a rod bearing there. If you did rod is junk. I can kinda see bearing tab on one shell in pic, Make sure bearing tabs look 100% and not knocked down like if bearing spun in rod.
 

351Blueblood

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The rod caps are "cracked" off the main beam of rod from factory. Told ya your piston would be smoked. When I ordered my piston is did not come with wrist pin and C clips. You need to make sure you didn't spin a rod bearing there. If you did rod is junk. I can kinda see bearing tab on one shell in pic, Make sure bearing tabs look 100% and not knocked down like if bearing spun in rod. The lower girdle will be fine. I bought new bolts for it but others have reused.
 

luigisho

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Have you checked the oil pan and pump pickup screen for little pieces? Have you gone through the oil to see if there are particulates that are visible? Also get a good look at the rod bearing journals on the crankshaft? May or may not need a little polishing if you can feel scoring with fingernail.
 

withku

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Have you checked the oil pan and pump pickup screen for little pieces? Have you gone through the oil to see if there are particulates that are visible? Also get a good look at the rod bearing journals on the crankshaft? May or may not need a little polishing if you can feel scoring with fingernail.

no metal in oil and rod journals look fine
 

withku

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The rod caps are "cracked" off the main beam of rod from factory. Told ya your piston would be smoked. When I ordered my piston is did not come with wrist pin and C clips. You need to make sure you didn't spin a rod bearing there. If you did rod is junk. I can kinda see bearing tab on one shell in pic, Make sure bearing tabs look 100% and not knocked down like if bearing spun in rod.

what would cause this? you had the same problem right? it seems weird for the piston to fall apart
 

351Blueblood

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Dude it just happens to these engines. Most likely butting ring ends. The ring end gaps are really tight on these,
 

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withku

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Dude it just happens to these engines. Most likely butting ring ends. The ring end gaps are really tight on these,

butting ring ends? as in rings sticking to piston?

also not sure if i should bore my cylinder or not, will definitely need a ball hone but scratches are very minor. fingernail catches them but they’re smaller than a hair.

and where did you buy your ball hone?
 

351Blueblood

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Lack of ENOUGH ring end gap under boost and heat makes ring gaps meet and then ring expands even more popping the piston ring lands. I bought my ball hone off flea bay.
 

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