Nitrous

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Performance Upgrades' started by skyshadow07, Apr 5, 2021.

  1. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    I have searched without prevail (if you can find a thread like this, share it on here), But I would like a thread of everyone's nitrous setups. I'm talking everything, shot size, brand, bottle location, wet or dry, injection location... etc.
    I'm getting a nitrous system soon and would like to see which ones were the easiest to install, what size is most desired, do's and dont's, etc.
     
  2. Ecoboost_xsport

    Ecoboost_xsport SHO Member

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    I'm kinda right there with ya on this one...been contemplating going this route as well lately...
     
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  3. GotGrip?

    GotGrip? Conversation Ruiner

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  4. Roman

    Roman SHO Member

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    Same here think about this as well im on the fence about meth but something inside of me want to run nitrous to just purge it while driving

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
     
  5. stripSHO

    stripSHO Tyler Durden

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    Great minds think alike lol... About two weeks ago I loaded up my cart with a 15lb bottle, big (250hp) single fogger wet kit, dedicated fuel system, progressive controller, throttle position sensor, gauges, sensors, vent kit, etc. etc. Haven’t brought myself to clicking that checkout button yet.

    Biggest thing to understand about nitrous in a turbo application is that what goes in must come out, meaning that your exhaust has to be up to the task of handling the extra flow. Our turbine housings are a major Achilles heel that chokes these engines severely even at stock boost levels. Due to this, expect fractional gains when spraying with maxed out turbos, as you’re essentially just replacing turbo power with nitrous power.

    Despite this fact, I still think nitrous is the way to go. The bolt-on turbo aftermarket is complacent with keeping a noose around this engine and selling underdeveloped products more suited for breaking rods than for making power. I believe that nitrous done right will significantly outrun a SHO of equal HP with upgraded turbos... and do it with less stress on the bottom end and transmission.

    Oh and dry kit is a waste of time due to obvious fueling difficulties IMO. Just my $0.02
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2021
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  6. 802SHO

    802SHO Built not Bought

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    Zex Safe shot nitrous kit, 5lb bottle. Nitrous jet is just about 10” down stream from the TB. It has to pass through 1500cc of 100% methanol before entering the TB. Brad (AJP Turbo) has said he doesn’t see the additional fuel pressure (aux) fueling from Meth when I spray, that the nitrous is eating it up. Nitrous and methonal are an excellent combo from what I’ve read.

    However above a 50 shot with stock HPFP, stock LPFP and upgraded turbos it was running too lean on the initial hit. Once I added the XDI35 and DW300C above a 50 shot looked great.

    The zex safe shot kit is the barebones type deal. Manual button, caveman setup...simple. To purge I would start the car, open the valve on the bottle and check for leaks real quick...put the car in neutral and rev it to about 3k rpm and hit the button for about 2 seconds...rpm climbs up to about 4500 or so from the spray...I call it good enough. Im sure some ppl can argue with this but take it from experience...it’s fine.

    Bottle is mounted in the trunk, line runs under the car in and out of the frame and up into the engine bay.

    Once you’ve started your fun, opened the valve, already did a run or test...I leave it all hooked up. If the solenoid is leaking you’ll see it (frost) or hear it. Then I would shut the valve off....bc if it’s leaking into your intake manifold and you then start it bad things can happen. But when I know I’m good I leave it all open and on, turn off and start my car..(like at the track)

    Ive added a purge kit but hooked it up to an intercooler chiller bar...this was a huge waste of nitrous. There’s no (nozzle or jet) the chiller bar is basically one big massive jet...emptied a 5 lb bottle in under 20 seconds. So I took that line...and nitrous purge has its own solenoid, so that means another manual button...that line I turned into another jet and placed it 8 or so inches before the Intercooler. So now I do my little purge there.

    In my experience when you have under 2lbs left in your 5lb bottle it’s then having a hard time keeping pressure up. You want bottle pressure to between 900-1100 psi. You can get bottle warmers for it. You can also heat it with a blow torch (not recommended but widely practiced). No matter what you do you want a pressure gauge on the bottle.

    At the track the way I use it is like this. The bottle gets a hot water soak, then I wrap it in a blanket on the way there. Then I take it out, mount it in the trunk, attach the line, start my car. Open the valve, check for leaks....turn the car off. Heat up the bottle until it’s got 900 -1100 psi. When heating it up...it cools down pretty quickly as well. So don’t heat it up unless you are ready to go. (Obviously this is without a bottle warmer). I go get in the staging lanes. I don’t do my little purge into the engine until I’m rounding the turn up front and basically 2-3 cars behind from it being my turn. When I’m inching up into the second staging light my car is in D, hand off the shifter and both fingers on my nitrous jet manual buttons. I’ll launch the car and spray my pre IC jet the instant I let off the brake...holding that down through 1st, second, I hit beginning of 3rd and I have the bigger Pre TB jet blasting AND the pre IC jet going and it’s both held down until the end of the run. Instead of one big shot in once place. I have the biggest jet pre TB and smaller one pre IC. I compound them for a total of xxxxxxx.

    You’ll need a fire jacket to pass track inspection. I bought a safety blow down kit, if something crazy happened rather than the bottle blowing up all the contents would run out of a tube out of the car. You’ll need your bottle empty to install the fitting for it on the bottle neck. I have the fitting installed on my bottle but never hooked up the blow down kit. It can get really dangerous leaving a nitrous bottle sitting in your trunk or car when it’s hot outside. The bottle pressure can get so high it explodes. Heard a story of a guy with a hidden bottle his car. Guys at the track swore he had nitrous and he said no no no....his hidden bottle blew up .......

    Race fuel.... nitrous before IC.....nitrous after IC..... into methanol.....then into intake manifold. Her favorite treat. It’s worked great for me so far. I agree with @stripSHO that I think it’s less strain on everything when you can use nitrous to fill in the gaps. What I mean by that is tuning the car knowing you’ll be using nitrous. And for me that’s been wanting a powerful yet cautious tune ...that I can feel more comfortable throwing nitrous at. I feel like it has room to grow. In that instant I have more power than a lot of built motors without nitrous...but the car isn’t tuned for that kind of power. So I’m not driving around and the car is just flat out stomped on with so much power all the time. I save my extra strength (nitrous) when I need it the most. Maybe StripSHO didn’t mean that exactly.

    I didn’t start using nitrous until after I already had methonal, GH IC, GH Gen3 turbos ...stuff like that. And something to think about as well, for me my car is a non PP. I installed the PP trans cooler on it, before I started taking the car to the drag strip. Don’t forget to cool your tranny if you haven’t got a PP. that sounded bad. 772482E0-9351-42A8-B322-DCF4A7C0014D.jpeg F98940D3-8CD2-4F5C-97CE-2C0816787DB3.jpeg F8BFFE4D-2B26-464A-9DD2-9F4CD3D534C6.jpeg 5C4999CF-FE9B-4CB5-AAE3-B8413A2418EC.jpeg 87B1CD97-FD98-4424-9C73-EE80FE441B52.jpeg DEB35092-1816-49E6-B1B8-D0BE6AF2188B.jpeg FB15DDE9-AAAF-4729-BF1F-9A97922807A8.jpeg 04D70F51-21B3-4392-9915-1B8F4D319C57.jpeg 850EBB47-4427-4879-8939-BA89ACC9BCDB.jpeg 6607DB5A-307C-4A5B-BBB8-369A747CAD83.jpeg 18DBF672-1DB7-4FA5-AD62-A933912FBCBC.jpeg F729CB95-36A3-4AEE-904B-388EC4FD667B.jpeg 713B0EDA-3D67-4781-91AF-8C1E24C974FE.jpeg View attachment 18301
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2021
  7. skyshadow07

    skyshadow07 On a mission to get below 4000lbs

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    So if I'm not misreading, the guys running nitrous are saying that with stock whirly boys, it isn't going to do much because of the restrictions?
     
  8. Ta2dResqr

    Ta2dResqr SHO Member

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    https://www.jegs.com/i/ZEX-Nitrous/243/82081/10002/-1#

    Might be a good way to use nitrous and not overload the turbine housings. Help on the low end until you get to a desired pressure where you are maxing out the housings. I know our spool time is not bad but, may make an improvement without a detriment?
     
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  9. 802SHO

    802SHO Built not Bought

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    I can’t say that I wouldn’t have done it no matter what. But I can say with confidence if anyone went with a 35 dry shot it’s nothing for a shot in the nitrous world...but that shot will drop you IAT2 so fast....giving you more power by aiding your turbo flow...it’s airflow also. Nothing will cool your car down faster. Probably why I did better in 70 degree sub 2k DA than cooler temps and lower DA...bc it was hot enough to give me better traction.

    By the time you fill your bottle and have your kit installed you’re in about 500. I started with the lowest jet....15 shot and went up by 10 each time. Data logged all of them. Brad never and I mean not once did he ever change my tune after I added nitrous. It’s just the icing on top. Literally.
     

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