Need advice on what to have done with suspension

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Suspension, Brake Systems, & Body' started by DavidT, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member

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    I'm really glad to see my stock is still in the buy buy buy section!

    That being said I will be hosting my annual SHOnanigans again this year after taking a year off. Date is YTBD but keep an eye out for it.
     
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  2. shoray

    shoray SHO Member

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    If there is anything that matters more than the suspension, I have yet to find it. I completely rebuilt my 95 and it makes such a difference that after all that work and the night and day change in handling and responsiveness that I just wrecked it and insist on fixing because nothing else will carve a corner like it.
     
  3. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Well... Chad, Irish Pride, did lots of suspension work for me. Many thanks to him and to those that suggested me to get to him. This forum is full of great help, great advice, and great people. Getting an alignment done now, so I will be able to tell if my issues are solved. We did struts, end links, lower control arms, gen 3 subframe bushings. Question:
    The end links have grease fittings. Master Pro iirc. Do I grease them until grease is coming out of the boot? Or just a couple squirts?
     
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  4. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    I try and fill it until it bulges or just a tiny amount comes out of the boot. Try and remember to re-grease them at oil change to them lubricated
     
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  5. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member

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    Those particular ones you don't really want to grease right now. The boot is only held on by that thin wire and if you over do it the boot will pop loose. If you do grease them, just a couple squirts.
     
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  6. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Update. Ugh. Noise still there. Either the strut mount or bearing is defective, or I am wondering if a spring might be cracked. *rub face*
    I had the strut mounts and bearings done just before Chad did everything else. I assumed that other components were causing the noise. Apparently not. Those mounts and bearings were reused with the new struts. The noise seems to be from drivers front strut area... turning the wheel either direction. Which before I went to Chad's, it seemed to be from passenger front area. Here's the interesting part. When Chad and I worked on it, we ended up swapping the front end parts... passenger side to driver side, vv. Too, as I compressed the springs to remove the old struts, the side that seems to make the noise, THAT spring was MUCH easier to compress. Would that be indicative of a cracked spring?
    On another thought, would a wheel bearing cause this noise? (Only while turning)? Would a bad wheel bearing give an abs code?
     
  7. zoomlater

    zoomlater SHO Member

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    Can you record the noise and post it, is it a rubbing sound?
    Are these the original springs that came with the car
    Could you tell if those were the original mounts or were they replaced previously
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  8. rubydist

    rubydist Moderator Staff Member

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    yes, a bad wheel bearing can only make a noise while turning (it causes the rotor to rub on the caliper bracket) and a bad wheel bearing can cause an abs code because it can allow the stator to be too far from the sensor. its certainly a possibility, but not guaranteed.
     
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  9. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Original springs afaik.
    New mounts.
    I'll hopefully post a vid soon.
    This is my 5th sho. Until now, I had avoided what most here know as "money pits"... now I feel the pain...
     
  10. pjtoledo

    pjtoledo 'ol man in the SHO

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    without hearing the noise, and only guessing, I can say a potential source is the upper bearing plates rubbing on the strut tower. when the alignment plates are cut loose and the top holes are enlarged to correct alignment its possible to move the bearing plate enough to rub the strut tower. there are at least 2 different bearing plates, they differ in height/clearance.
     
  11. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    I think pjtoledo probably nailed it above (plate rub noise) - Just in case its front lower control arm bushings note I have a mint set for sale in the Classifieds.
     
  12. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    If that's what it is, then, do I have the wrong mount? ( same thing as the plate right?) And the strut tower plate was loose, so maybe you're right. If the holes are drilled out... What's the fix ?
     
  13. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    Cheapest is just to add camber (move the strut top outward if its all the way inboard) get camber within 0.2 degrees of each other on both sides (I use a piece of brickmold on the rim edge and then a digital level).

    Be sure to get toe set afterwards,
     
  14. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Here's some pics... the front end is jacked up off the ground. the passenger side is first pic. the driver/noisy side is second pic. the tire is not rubbing the spring i dont think, but its close. Why would the spring be that close to the tire? they are 225-60-16's.
    20170317_140914.jpg IMG_20170317_172940.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  15. pjtoledo

    pjtoledo 'ol man in the SHO

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    IF that's the problem,
    try trimming the rubber ring on the outside of the upper bearing plate. can't trim much there, but I did fix that issue once by trimming alone.
    I don't recall if the 2 different height bearing plates are model or year specific. the flatter of the 2 will provide more clearance.

    a simple test would be to spray some WD40 or whatever up there and see if the noise changes.

    on the tire clearance issue, are both struts positioned at the exact same height in the knuckles?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  16. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    would i spray the lube from the bottom of the spring, or try to spray through the top mounting nuts in the engine bay?
    i have a video clip of the noise, but it wont upload...
    also, with the front end off the ground, the noise is pretty much gone while turning the wheel. does that eliminate anything? i wouldnt think it would...
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  17. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    Just to be clear, the rub occurs at the very top of the strut tower, underneath, and will rub as you are turning. On the drivers side, jack it up until the front tire is just barely off the ground (e.g. can just slide a piece of cardboard underneath. Then take the three nuts off holding the strut plate (think you said they have already mentioned they have been drilled out to free them up). Mark the location with a thin marker (all three studs) then gently pry the strut outboard. You only need it to move a mm or so (half the diameter of one of the studs). Put the top plate back down and tighten the nuts to around 25-30 ft lbs IIRC. Give it a spin around the block and see if you hear it rubbing. If the sound is gone reset the toe on that side (I use a tape measure front and rear, measuring to a straight rib on the tire and set to equal).
     
  18. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Thanks! So which direction will I be moving the strut? (Not sure what "outboard" means , lol)
     
  19. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    Away from the center of the car, more towards the outside. Just a little . . . otherwise you will throw the alignment off
     
  20. DavidT

    DavidT SHO Member

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    Ok. Will give it a try. Sorry for the ignorance, but how will that slight movement of the strut position affect the rubbing of the plate?
     

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