Miscellaneous intake/cooling/fuel questions

Discussion in 'V8 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by 98SF19, Nov 10, 2017.

  1. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    Yeah, injectors would be the next culprit to look at. This is where having an oscilloscope tool would be very useful. That's what the they will be using at the shop. They can tell based on the electrical current generated approximately what is going on with each cylinder: IE) Compression, Fuel, Spark, Mechanical issues...
     
  2. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I've got a catch can I have yet to install. I would be interested in viewing your install for ideas... ;)
     
  3. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    I may have put this somewhere else already but I basically went with the $18 can off ebay.
    - Cut it open after making stripes along sides with sharpie to better re-align during re-sealing; 1 stripe on one side, 2 on opposite side

    - Got rid of the little clear sight tube and replaced each hole with a short bolt trimmed down, each with rtv

    - Stuck slightly oversized piece of hardware cloth, concave down into bottom of can (drain plug end) to keep steel wool from soaking in fluid over time.

    - Affixed a 1x1" piece of aluminum angle bar, 1/20" thick, over inside vacuum port, isolating it from the rest of inside of can, long enough to touch hardware cloth. This is what makes the air travel full length of can.

    - Stuck in some steel wool to both halves of can. (FYI - making the initial cut in can lower down helps here - you only have to put steel wool in the top portion before sealing, whereas my cut was in the middle and so I had to put some in both sides).

    - Epoxied the bitch closed, and added rtv to drain plug and inlet/outlet ports (all sealing surfaces) - rtv should function like an o-ring with drain plug.

    Ran 1/2" line from crankcase baffle box under TB (avoid cable mechanism), down into wheel well to the can (can is fastened to an angled piece of ABS in front of drivers side wheel well, forward of splash guard, using hardware that came with it). 1/2" hose goes to a 1/2" x 3/8" union, then into can, then 3/8" hose from can up to pcv in elbow connected to stock size upper pcv hose to surge tank. FYI, coming out of the baffle box, the 1/2" hose is likely putting a bit of strain on the rear (driver's side) knock sensor. For longevity of this sensor, it might behoove you to find a way to run hose around it, as the stock lower pcv hose did.

    That's it! It was a nice little project, and I hope it lasts a while. Here's the finished product:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/7nuxiv10okljxur/Installed.wmv?dl=0
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2018
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  4. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    Inside Can
    Might be hard to tell, but I JB welded the end of angle bar to inside top of can, then put a small dab of mixed epoxy on each side (steel wool side) and set it at a slight angle so it could drool down the full length before curing.
     

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  5. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    Not sure it's ok, it seems a lot. Remember what Paul Nimz said about his system and spoke about 1 onze for one month or so (and probably for more than 1-2 day/week).

    And mine accumulate almost nothing during one summer long...
     
  6. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    I might have the amount wrong, maybe because I wasn't expecting much. I'll have to catch it next time and measure. Wouldn't the more collected be a positive? It's that much more kept out of intake. I was fairly diligent with avoiding vacuum leaks.
     
  7. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I can't say much on how much should be gathered in the can, but yes it is a positive to catch it in the can. This prevents build up on the valves. Some fuels, such as Chevron claim to clean it off, but wouldn't it be better if it was never there?

    Theoretically knowing how much oil collects in the system over a giveb driving period, to include loads and temperatures, you should be able to determine the amount of oil to expect. Knowing if you are getting to little or too much could clue you into other problems.
     
  8. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    It's best to catch a maximum of it in a can but not sure it's normal to have this quantity catched in the can...

    (BTW : today motors with direct injection suffer a lot from build up on valves because fuel doesn't clean valves anymore...)
     
  9. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    Quick question: What is the best way to manually rotate motor? Can I just lift the front and put it in neutral and turn front tires manually? I've got the borescope and want to take video of all cylinders at min and max stroke. Camera came with 90 degree view attachment which will allow good view of valve positions at each end.

    A neighbor who has modded his GTI hatchback heavily is converting stock port injection to direct injection, so I may suggest a recently discovered inexpensive way to run a con can . . .
     
  10. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    The best way is to put a 3/8" ratchet with the appropriate socket on. I usually use the longer reach versions to get more leverage. The wheels do not need to be off the ground, but it can be easier to work if you take the passenger front tire off.
    If you don't have a second person I usually stuff some tissue in the hole to know if I am on the compression stroke, if that matters for what you are looking to do. Sometimes you can get away with a long screw driver.
     
  11. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    So I was able to record (WAY too much) video of inside cylinders, and saw some recurring things. I'll post pics or short vid links later tonight or this weekend, but one of them appeared to be bits of sand or gravel between edge of piston and cylinder wall, only like 10 or 12 grains. I kept motor area fairly clean as I removed coils and plugs, but the oak trees were dropping stuff pretty heavily in the area, so I *think* it's just some bits of that that blew in. The other thing was that I could see, on several pistons, a narrow circumferential portion near the edge where it appeared very clean and residue-free. A friend said that's not a good sign and indicates wear of the piston material as a result of worn rings.

    EDIT:
    Here are some shots from rear bank. Most of the debris mentioned seemed to coincide with the clean areas, but I've included one that didn't.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
  12. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    BUMP
    (editing a post does not mark it as new I guess).
    See shots of cylinders 1-4 above. What's the deal with this clean area showing bits of "something". I hope they aren't pieces of the rings!
     
  13. 99sho-time

    99sho-time SHO Member

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    it's hard to see whats going on there. get a magnet wand and pull those pieces out?
     
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