Lower Control arm replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Suspension, Brake Systems, & Body' started by Bill Mc, Jan 28, 2018.

  1. Bill Mc

    Bill Mc Member

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    Hi guys - I'm in the middle of replacing front struts and I decided to do the lower control arms as well. I have the LCA free from the subrame and the nut removed from the tension strut on the LCA. However, the arm is completely stuck to the tension strut rod. This was a rusty car. I'm assuming it is just stuck or am I missing something? I was banging at it with a mallet. Should I try heat, perhaps? I can destroy the bushings, I guess, since I'm replacing the LCA. Anybody run into this?
    Thanks, Bill
     
  2. sperold

    sperold Last to Know

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    You need a 5 lb hammer and enough room to get a good swing. Nothing comes off easily. I would soak it in oil and heat it mercilessly.
    There is probably a special puller type gizmo, but the heavy hammer is your friend. Shine up the parts that have to move with a wire wheel before you start.

    The cushioning part of the bushing works against you when you are trying to remove it.
     
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  3. Bill Mc

    Bill Mc Member

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    thanks for the input. Prior to your response I was thinking of pulling off the whole strut rod from the front of subframe and giving it a whack off the car. But, I don't about how easy it would be to pull that strut rod off, anyway...i keep spiraling deeper!!
     
  4. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Those strut rods are a royal PITA. Glad I did the gen III subframe upgrade and got rid of that nuisance.
     
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  5. Bill Mc

    Bill Mc Member

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    oh man, you are right. I just got one off. I pulled the whole tension rod out of the subframe (also a PITA), then put it in my vise and started turning the LCA back and forth and finally it came loose. Lots of rust in there. Now I need to buy some new tension rod bushings too.
     
  6. rubydist

    rubydist Moderator Staff Member

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    or just do the Gen3 swap and be rid of the whole mess...
     
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  7. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf New Member

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    Seems like a big investment. My research hasn't been done yet though. . Also having a rusty ride and the one I'm looking at being a bit rusty. It doesn't seem smart.
     
  8. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    The GenIII subframe swap is superior to the GenI/II design if you can pull it off. It should be well documented somewhere in the archives
     
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  9. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf New Member

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    I see, I'm all for it if the vehicle is in good shape.
     
  10. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    The issue with the tension strut rods sticking is because the metal rod swells due to rust and age freezing it inside. Don’t pound on it with a hammer. Spray PB blaster or whatever your favorite penetrating oil into the rubber bushing and set the tension rod in a vice then twist the control arm back and forward to work the oil into the bushing and it should eventually slide off. There is notches on the tension rod you can also put a wrench on as well.

    DO NOT bash on the tension rod itself. You don’t want to mushroom the end if you are going to reuse it. Once it’s off check the rod and see it’s diameter. If it’s swelled to much or shrunk due to rust replace it. SHO SOURCE has replacement tension rods. Used, but in good condition. You cannot get them new anymore as they are obsolete. RockAuto has the correct replacement control arms in the SHO size. The SHO’s control arms were thicker then stock Taurus control arms. I believe they were all the same for gen one and two.
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+v6+dohc,1138665,suspension,control+arm,10401
    Get the Moog premium replacements. That’s what I got for my 92. They are really good. And while you are there you can grab the struts too! All Moog parts. Check your tie rods both inner and outer as well as your CV axles. Make sure they are not leaking. If you need anything else just ask. I redid all my suspension, brakes and steering.
     
  11. itwonder

    itwonder SHO Master

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    You can upgrade the stock tension rod bushings with Energy Suspension PN 4.7119G or 4.7.119R urethane. The right side SHO specific Moog LCA's are rare; Moog was out of them at one time and substituting the skinny Taurus ones under the SHO part number.
     
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  12. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Don't forget to check the cups the tension rods sit in in the front of the sub frame. If they are broken free of the subframe you need to either weld them back into place or use a kit to secure them in place. I believe SHO SOURCE still has them. Though only if they have broken free of the subframe.
     
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