Key fob problems

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Nova, Apr 13, 2019.

  1. Nova

    Nova New Member

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    So I just started having a problem with my key fob not working when I get out of the car. Whenever I get out of the car and try to lock it, nothing happens so I keep pushing the lock button and still nothing. I even try pushing all the other buttons on the fob and still nothing happens no matter if I push the trunk unlock or panic button nada. But as soon as the lights turn off on the car (side marker and LED light bar on the bumper) it lets me lock the car, and the key fob works again. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it today and it's still doing the same thing. Any ideas or suggestions??

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  2. xFallenxCripplex

    xFallenxCripplex SHO Member

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    I have same issue but normally changing the battery makes it work again a bit better but still temperamental right now most the time it works except for hitting the rear trunk button above the license plate doesn't like to register

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  3. Nova

    Nova New Member

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    Ya I thought changing the battery would fix the problem but nope still happens. I'm probably going to unplug the car battery when I get home and see if that resets something.

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  4. Jeff2017

    Jeff2017 SHO Member

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    Last week I got in my car and it would start. I had the fob in my pocket. So I took it out and stuck it in the little compartment for programming keys and it fired right up. I don't think it is the battery because I can lock and unlock the car from 50 feet away. I just chalked it up to a bug in some hardware or firmware that happens occasionally.
     
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  5. Nova

    Nova New Member

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    Well I unplugged the battery last night and it seems to get fix of whatever bug I had. I hope that it stays that way.

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  6. GHNorth

    GHNorth Member

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    This car has weird electrical gremlins. Today when I started my car, my A/C did not come on, even though the panel indicated AUTO was active. I tapped the Auto button about 10 minutes down the road and everything worked fine. One day in January while on a road trip, I stopped for a break, and when I started my car I had no AUDIO (radio/USB/AUX input), although Nav still talked. I made the mistake of doing a system reset to try to fix it. Didn't work. A few hours later, after sitting a few hours at my destination, everything worked again. Time seems to fix many electrical issues.
     
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  7. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    You're lack of A/C i bet is the software fault with the FCIM (the capacitve HVAC and Audio Button Pannle) If you have Sony Sound.

    Press all buttons on the FCIM climate control buttons. Turn on the windshield defrost for a bit. Shut off the car with the front defrost still on. With the exterior temp around 40 degrees or cooler start up the car (remote start or start/stop button). The "on" button will turn on, but the defrost will not turn on, no blower motor either. If you press the defrost button again, Auto will turn on and the system will work. It is normal if you press the defrost button it is normal to return to auto.

    To fix this for a short while, a battery disconnect will work. Also if the dealership self tests the HVAC it will temporarily repair the concern, until you use the dual functions again.
     
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  8. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    This spot is the back up slot. Your fob has a radio transmitter and receive that is used normally with the passive start/stop system. There is a PATS chip (same chip used in older Fords with a keyed ignition) that is activated by the backup slot to see that a programed key is used to start the car.

    Sounds like your RFA is taking a crap. Try a battery disconnect?
     
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  9. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    Your fob sends a radio message to a Tire Pressure Module, That module talks to a Remote Function Actuator (RFA) that locks and unlocks the car. You could have a circuit fault, or possibly a module fault. I cant think of a way for you to test the key system without a scan tool. I would try pressing the 7/8 9/0 button on the key less entry key pad to see if it lacks the car. This is also a direct input to the RFA is memory serves me. I don't know why it wont let you lock the car or use any function of the fob. If you have a second fob, try it out too.
     
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  10. moonie

    moonie SHO Member

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    I will point out that I had lots of troubles with both of my FOBs once the original battery got weak. These FOBs are VERY sensitive on what batteries they like. I found Energizer works best in mine. Once I installed Energizer batteries all the problems I was having went away.
     

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