ignition switch problem

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Emergency Issues - Performance Upgrade' started by zach44102, Aug 16, 2010.

  1. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    ok well what about the wire im talking about?
     
  2. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    today i pulled the ignition switch it self out to see if i could tell if it was broken. once i got it pulled it seemed like it was working mechanicly.... the only way it could be bad would be electricly. does anybody have any input? if a new lock cyllinder and switch dosent fix this what should i look at?
     
  3. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    A new car? :biggrin:
     
    SHOCH likes this.
  4. kevinspann

    kevinspann 87 Octane

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    The thing in between them...
     
  5. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    :snicker:smartass lol......actuater rod? that involves a parts car right? does it also involve me removing the steering wheel?
     
  6. kevinspann

    kevinspann 87 Octane

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    If that's what it is...it looks like it. You can probably get them at a dealer. I would think the ignition switch would go bad first, I.E. what Racer X said. He's been around longer than us n00bs...
     
  7. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    ill update tomorow and if the switch and lock cylinder dosdent fix it i guess ill be making a trip to ford or a junkyard
     
  8. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    p.s check out the sig kevin
     
  9. SHORANGERBIRD

    SHORANGERBIRD Restorer of SHO

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    -buy a Ford one..saves so much time...
     
  10. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    omg!!!! a new ignition switch and lock cyllinder didnt fix it.... does this mean its that plastic rod within the steering colum? how can i get one? how do i get to it? i can move the rod within the steering colum freely...
     
  11. hawkeye18

    hawkeye18 Sorta cares

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    That's just friggin' weird, man. Did you check the wiring behind the ignition switch for melted or shorted wires? At this point, I think it would have to be the rod. And I have no clue whatsoever how to get it out.

    At this point I think it'd be easier just to wire a switch to the crank position sensor input... turn that switch off to turn the car off. lol
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2010
  12. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    Yeah, but then wouldn't the "Hot in Run" circuit be hot all the time? i.e. accessories on all the time.

    It would be a more complete solution to just replace the ignition switch with a simple toggle switch on a panel, which is exactly what we convinced Zach not to do, and that's how he ended up here... :biggrin:
     
  13. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    The nice thing about the SHO is that it uses all the Taurus equipment. In a case like this where something is horribly wrong, one solution would be to get another complete column.
    You can dissect the Taurus column to get the parts you need for the SHO, or if you are having trouble with the multi-switch or anything else, you can swap in the whole column.
     
  14. kevinspann

    kevinspann 87 Octane

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    Though, he has an MTX, so he would need to put the key release onto the different column. Not sure how difficult that is.
     
  15. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    at this point i think its the rod.... the plastic slider is no longer attached to the rod and moves freeley... ill be stopping by ford today to see how much they will rip me off. finding a mtx sho to pull a ignition out of seems impossible because sho are not common where i live and junkyards do not have them. thankyou for everybody help and ill keep you guys updated.
     
  16. Racer X

    Racer X SHO Pilot

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    You can get it from a SLO Taurus or Sable also.
     
  17. shoon

    shoon cliTaurus

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    Do you have a remote starter installed in your car?

    is it possible you somehow activated the turbo timer on it??
     

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