I Just Pulled the Trigger

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Performance Upgrades' started by TwoFive, Jun 8, 2018.

  1. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    Just bought the LMS Hurricane Package! 2018 SHO with the PP. Pumped! Any pointers on the install...

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  2. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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    yeah, bring it all over to my house, and install it in mine ;)
     
  3. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    Ha! Now that's comical.

    # the OP, what is all involved in that kit? Cuz I forgot.
     
  4. '14SHO

    '14SHO SHO Member

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    I wanna say it’s the intake Tstat tuner and 3 bar
     
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  5. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    If that's the case, all are easy peasy as far as installation goes.
     
  6. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    Spark plug question... my 2018 only has 500 miles on it, so do I need to put in the SP 534's?

    Also, do i need to have a certain mileage on the car before i tune it?

    Thanks for the help

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  7. Majestic

    Majestic SHO Member

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    Stock plugs are fine. Not sure what "break-in" mileage is. Seems like I recall 1000 miles, but that could be wrong.
     
  8. StealBlueSho

    StealBlueSho SHO Member

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    Unless they changed it... the stock plugs ARE SP-534’s.

    Might be worth pulling out to check gap and re-gap to .030 if needed.

    Best of luck!


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  9. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    Thanks for the info!

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  10. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    With so many issues "burping" the coolant system.... can someone break down the the install barney style for me? I plan on installing the 160° TStat this Sat morning and I'm no mechanic. Thanks!

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  11. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    I have a 2018 SHO

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  12. StealBlueSho

    StealBlueSho SHO Member

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    The system is self burping... jack up the driver side, take off the thermostat housing, there are two 8mm bolts holding it on.

    You might need a screw driver to pop out the old thermostat, swap the gasket to the new one, pop in, put the thermostat housing back on. You will loose some coolant.

    Take off the coolant reservoir cap and let the car run until thermostat opens, fill the reservoir to the top of the full line. You can accelerate the process by turning on the defrosters.

    Run the car for a bit, monitor coolant, add as needed.


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  13. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Take your time with the bolts, no brute force needed there, or you could jack em up bad.

    Have a container of some sort positioned below the TStat housing to catch the spill. I would not put it back in the system, instead all new coolant, preferably Motorcraft Specialty Orange (wish it came in quart bottles LOL) and not a universal.

    If burping it is not working, the Lisle SpillFree Funnel is a great tool to get past that hurdle.

    More tips & tricks in this thread
    https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2280.0.html
     
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  14. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    Thanks gents! Let you know how it goes. 93 V11 tune and 3 bar to follow successful tstat job.

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  15. TwoFive

    TwoFive New Member

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    Done! The LMS tune is freaking awesome! For the the updates.... The 160° tstat install went good. Lost a lot more fluid than I expected tho. I followed your guys instructions and had no issues. The CAI install was super simple and I can hear the blow off valves now. Sweet! The 3 bar was also super simple and I installed it right before the tune w/o starting the car. The Tune was super simple also. The instructions were spot on. The first drive... no check engine lights or unusual noises. The shifts from 1st to 3rd are hard but not alarming. They say it calms down after the first 100 miles or so. Started slow and cold feel a difference immediately... like a dog pulling and anticipating breaking the chain to get the anoying neighborhood cat. 20mph to 50mph quick at 1/4 throttle. 50mph to 100mph like nothing for the beast. 0 to 100 way faster than expected and chirped the tires from 1st to 2nd gear (imediate permagrin)!! Past a slow car on a 2 lane 55mph road and couldn't see it in the rear view by the time I let up. Super impressed by the Livernois hurricane pack! If you have any doubts about tuning, dont, it's so worth it and the overall drivability is superb! I'm hooked.

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  16. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    If the shifts remain hard, there are a couple of things to try. Keep the trans fluid changed out regularly, perhaps as often as annually if you run the SHO hard.
     
  17. 2011TAURUSSEL

    2011TAURUSSEL 2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10

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    I did mine without jacking the drivers side. There a couple of crossover pipes that need to be loosened I believe but not totally removed. Ditto on the 2 8mm bolts other than that fairly straight forward. You might need a screwdriver and or a block of wood to tap gently to loosen the thermostat housing. Remove and make a note of where the OEM thermostat is and orientation of the housing bridge. The idea is to install the new thermostat in the same place. Drip pan and in my case I used a small amount of sealant on the housing to block area. I don't believe there is a gasket. Make sure the O ring goes back in I am pretty sure the O ring is on the block side so make sure it doesn't fall out or get pinched when you re install the thermostat and housing. After that burp system and monitor coolant level for a few days. The reservoir might show empty as some coolant fills in any air pockets in the block.


    NOTE: When installing the 160F thermostat be prepared for the following issue.

    During extreme cold...…….yes even we get low double digits here in DFW winters there is potential problem. I say this because it has happened to me and want to prepare others.

    Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL/Check Engine light") during extreme cold temperatures with a 160F Thermostat MIL indicator lamp may illuminate.

    This illumination commonly comes back as a P0128 (Coolant Temperature Sensor below normal range.) Basically what is happening is the thermostat is already below the normal OEM parameters (180F) and with colder ram air across the radiator it is keeping or at least indicating coolant temperature is below the parameters of the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) Although each occurrence should be investigated to ensure there is not another MIL code it could be a fairly reasonable conclusion to believe that it is the coolant being below normal temp and literally engine running too cold. I had it on mine and basically reset and lived with it until the winter was over. I might consider going back to the 180F OEM thermostat for this winter but I have some time.
     
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  18. Madyaks

    Madyaks Madyaks

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    I'm really thinking about the Hurricane Package myself, maybe adding the downpipes with cats.
    I live in a state with emissions testing so I guess I will have to switch the 3bar and downpipes back and forth every couple years.
    Just curious if anyone knows the wheel HP gains from Hurricane Package and the downpipes?
    I'd really like to get to 500 give or take at the crank.
     
  19. brucelinc

    brucelinc SHO Member

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    I am surprised at this. I live in Minnesota where it can get REALLY cold. I never had a MIL illuminate when running the 160 thermostat. I had a temp gauge on the car and when fully warmed up, the 160 ran the same temp as the original 180. It took longer to warm up since the 160 opens earlier but they both reached the same temp after a few miles.
     
  20. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    Although I've purposely "downed" the SHO the last 2 winter cycles here in CHIraq, I did use it as a dedicated daily driver for her 1st five years.

    During that time I was also (still am) running the 160 lower temp thermo, and also have had double digit below zero (Farenheit) temps and never once had an issue with the P0128 MIL myself.
     
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