Discussion in 'Engine, Intake, Exhaust and Drive Line' started by cali+Mocasho+, Mar 5, 2019.
After I put 1040 and did the rod bearing the oil light is gone
I would recommend doing headgaskets in pairs only because if you are digging in might as well get it all done. If you suspect mechanical damage you will need to inspect the head for warping, valves and cylinder walls and maybe piston ring. Overheating and/or oil starvation can do alot of things. Hopefully none of the above but you should look around in there.
But it could still
oil was full just a little old but I understand that it was poorly lubercated
When you had the oil light issue, the one with the sump full of oil, did the car actually overheat?
You mentioned stalling at that point, is that because the engine was overheating?
If the engine never experienced overheating, the head gaskets should not be your issue.
Never over heated. It first started showing up after a 100mph run onto the free way. I go to get off the freeway from fifth gear to down shift and the car stalls before I go to third. I pull over fires right back up. Started bogging at idle with the oil light flickering.
Now today, no smoke out the tailpipe. Felt fine for 30 mins. until the car got up to temp and the oil light came on very dim though. So I turned it off at red lights so I’m not starving anything. Oil level is fine Dose not seem to be contaminated. However coolant in the rad cap drops about half a cup for 30 minutes of driving. No leaks possible it’s geting pushed into the resovior. Most likely in a cylinder.
Ran codes all I got is 11 and other stuff related to not following directions. Such as goose test, egr not opening and the steering one.
No. Oil light flickerd until it stalled
I still need to pick up test kit.
Try a new rad cap.
Why would the oil light start flickering at idle 900rpm one ca it’s up to temp. Running 1040 with new rod bearings less than 50 miles on them
Could it be emmison controlled sensors? New egr newish o2s,sparkplugs wires,maf,timing and water pump
can Bad radcap allowing flow to overflow hose?
What about a oil light at steady idle once warmed up
What oil sensor did you replace? There are two of them. What oil light is on? Meaning what does it say? Low oil level or low oil pressure or just the picture of the oil can?
I'm wondering about oil pressure, pump and sensor. or hg issues. A Lot of futzing around and testing
Red light up top
red light up top. And I replaced the sensor to the block not the pan
Ever heard of a pump performing poorly after high rpms once warmed up?
No I am really stumped and throwing stuff on the wall. There is no other tests done to find or eliminate the issue. However the oil light is really only triggered by a few things, insufficient amount, pressure/flow inadequate, or maybe electronic/sensor issue.
Can valve seals be a possible issue
Did anything change with a different rad cap?
I have never heard of an impeller failing in a waterpump.
The red oil light usually means lack of pressure, usually below 5 lb pressure. Was the crank discoloured when you swapped the rod bearings? The mains can be an issue but they are less prone to high wear and wide clearances.
New rad cap and coolant is still goes and retreats back into the system. Coolant light was on yesterday now it’s not. I picked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and compression tester today. Now I’m trying to figure out what size fittings I need to make the tee.
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