Fuel Pump

I have an emergency situation and I need a fuel pump for a 1993 Automatic SHO and I need it tomorrow. Can anyone help me?

 

Overnight is near impossible. Everyone is at least 2 days out, probably earliest is Monday via Amazon. Bosch 69101

All 1993 3.2L Parts
https://www.bosch-automotive-catalo...ip/FOR/1493/-4u7a25vmqnlovq76t7qdejp29aui22vv

69101
https://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/en/product-detail/-/product/F000TE1665

 

thank you for your prompt response. I will try to get the recommended fuel pump ASAP!

 

Just ordered from Amazon with one day delivery. Will bring it to the Ford dealer for installation when received tomorrow. Thank you sir for the assistance!

 

Best of luck!

 

Many owners, back in the day, complained that their automatic SHOs were sold with garden variety regular Taurus fuel pumps.

Hope this information is helpful during your emergency.

 

Hope the 3rd party Amazon seller comes through; Sorry nobody mentioned rockauto.com - they can do DHL express next business day for $10 on a pump; FedEx "early AM" for a whole bunch more money.

Amazon itself sells Spectra Premium SP1142 for 34.59, but only 1-day ship in select cities. 87 - 123 PSI; 44.9 - 54.2 GPH - which should be enough for 500HP.

The Bosch 69101 is in stock at the Advance Auto near me, but it looks like none close to Arlington. The only flow spec I could find is "Stock".

There's also wrecking yards full of 1992-1995 "America's best selling car" with tanks ready to drop if nothing else comes through.

Mine got swapped for a SHO pull from a bad diagnosis. I could have given my 4/93's part number, but turned the extra fuel pump into a water pump for a swamp cooler, which didn't work too well in our weather.

I think if you got a 16 gallon tank, like late 95s were sometimes getting, a stock pump might be more likely. The Ford build sheet a dealer can print shows the extended tank option.

 

Now I have an "Front" O2 sensor problem. Is there a difference in part number, or will this work for front and back?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-15717-...-697------------&vehicleName=1993+Ford+Taurus

 

Yes, they are the same, and that's the correct part, and probably the best manufacturer.

Being the same, you can even swap the sensors front-to-back, clear the codes (disconnect the jumper while it's blinking codes), and after a drive see if the code switches to the other bank.

RockAuto $25.45 with 5% discount code 110036383104055027 (enter in "how did you hear about us"). Amazon free shipping might be cheaper, but you can't get a $3 set of spark plug wires or $0.57 brake pads or $7.17 rotors ('93 non-upgrade) included with your Amazon order (crazy, wires were $120.)

 

Sorry for the long message, but I need to tell the story.

I took the car to a Ford dealer in Northern VA and had a new fuel pump installed and new plugs. I drove it five miles and the check engine light came on again. I immediately went back to the dealer and I was told the code was a faulty front O2 sensor. I bought one and they installed the next day. The check engine light stayed off. The mechanic cleared all the codes by disconnecting the battery. For some reason, he told me the car alarm was not working as usual. It did not chirp when I locked the doors. I spent about $1,600 at the dealership on replacing the fuel pump, an alignment, and changing the plugs. When I questioned the cost, I was told that these were the standard rates for Northern VA. At least they did the O2 sensor for free.

I began my trip from Virginia to Massachusetts. After driving about 100 miles, I pulled over at a rest stop and when I tried to start the car, the engine would begin to come to life and then shut off with all of the warning lights across the bottom of dash lighting up. A second try yielded the same result. After a third try with the accelerator to the floor, the car started and the engine ran perfectly. I had to stop again later and I had the same problem. It was very hard to get the warm engine to start. After a couple of tries, the starter would sound weak and click and then turn over the engine. This created a lot of stress during my 450 mile journey. I could not trust the car to start on a warm engine.

After arriving at my destination with the car sitting overnight, I started the cold engine in the morning without a problem. I drove it for about 15 minutes; parked it for 10 minutes, and when I tried to start the warm engine, I had the same starting problem. Once started, the engine ran fine but I had intermittent check engine light coming on and then off.

I have parked the car in the garage and I do not want to take it out until we can figure this out. I am not very knowledgeable about this stuff and would appreciate any advice and help. I also need the name of a good mechanic in Worcester MA who can fix the car.

 

This place used to be crawling with handy Massholes. Not sure how many are left. I see you posted in the NE Sho club section. Go to the facebook group and look there as well.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Any idea what the problem with the car could be? Faulty cam sensor??

 

Cam sensor also supplies the tachometer. If the tachometer only gave you the actual RPMs instead of dipping to zero, probably not the cam sensor. But here, sound like cam.

Not that it is absolutely the case given that fuel has been most recently worked on, but the symptom I had of a dying crank sensor was that it would start to completely die for a fraction of a second, ignition blips when the car was hot until it left me finally coasting for a parking spot a few drives later. Still sensed fine when cold. There is more heat soak into components when you turn off the car and the cooling system stops.


That price is absolutely stupendously criminal. I dropped the tank and changed the pump assembly in about three hours, and it would be even easier with a lift and lots of jacks instead of muscle power to lift a tank and a few gallons.

16 hours @ $100? I demand you go back to the dealer, then sue the dealer if they won't refund the ransom. TSB 13-6-3 to replace the tank on Fusion and reprogram the instrument cluster pays 2.7 hours to the dealer. An alignment is $70 around here unless you go to a racing shop, and I'd do all your plugs and clean the wells in under 15 minutes.

Safety Recall 98S10 on 1996 Tauruses with the wrong tank gives even shorter labor rates for tank service:

Operation Description :: Labor Allowances :: Labor Operation
Inspect :: 0.3 hrs :: 98S10A
Install (includes inspection) :: 1.5 hrs :: 98S10B
Administrative Allowance :: 0.1 hrs :: Admin

The car alarm is not stock and not their concern.

 

The cam sensor is not something you need to hire a mechanic for - in fact it's a lot less work than you might think, just helpful to have small hands.

Unplug two connectors to the DIS module mounted to the passenger side of the engine , remove two 12mm bolts and loosen two clamps, and pull off the crossover tube on the side of the engine the DIS module mounts to. You can now see the black round cam sensor on the back top of the engine. Unplug it, unbolt two bolts, and pull it straight out.

There's also a trick the MTX owner might use, which is to go in through the wheel well where there's a hole in the strut tower housing:



for the MTX method:
1/4'' Drive Ratchet
1/4'' Extensions (at a minimum, 2-3 4'' units; the pics will explain)
1/4'' 5/32'' socket
1/4'' swivel

otherwise just the socket and a little 1/4" ratchet. The crossover tube bolts are 12mm.

 

Thank you everyone for the detailed responses!