fuel pump replacement (w/fuel access door), with pics

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by ohfosho, Apr 10, 2006.

  1. ohfosho

    ohfosho ontario SHOwner

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    hey guys, jus had lots of fun (yeah right), replacing my fuel pump. with the help of SHO Phoenix Project's write up for the fuel pump access door, i used a dremel tool to cut my hole.

    first i found the best/easiest way to cut out the fuelpump power to be the cut off switch in the trunk, i pulled the connector. then try to start the car for a bit to get most of the fuel outa the line. then i dissconected the battary. you can check your codes first to see if theres anything new you dont know about, all will be reset when you hook the battary back up.
    mark the lines you will be cutting on with a marker. using the SHOPP guide for reference (they say 21" and 30"), i wanted a lil extra room to work, just in case. so from the outside of the passenger side rear door seal trim, measure 21" and mark a line. then i went to 32" next (measuring from the same point as before). then i marked a line at the begining of the rounding of the body, and wnt about 12 to 14" and marked my other line. (refer to pics, and you can decide were you want to cut in regards to the fuel pump assembly placement underneath)

    next make sure you have GOOD (dremel brand i found best, #36 i think i bought, the thinner you go , the easier they can break), cutting discs. it took me about 3 hours just to cut the hole (i went through all the cheaper brand cut off discs first, going through about 25 of them, and that got me 3 out 4 lines cut, they seemed to just blow up if you try to go too fast, so had to take some extra time and patience), i was also vacuuming the car while letting the dremel tool (mine another brand), cool off. when cutting the short paseenger side length, try to stay close (dont cut deep down), there are plastic fuel lines almost touching the spot you are cutting about 1/2 way through. refer to pics to see line placement

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

    if you are doing this on a sunday (and are using a dremel tool), make sure to do an inventory on your cutting discs...make sure you have enough to finish, if you arnt done already that is), before 4:00, just in case you need to run out and get more. it is fine to drive (there might be some exhaust gasses coming in the cuts you just made, so have your windows down), short distances, just hook up the fuel cut off switch again, and connect the battery back up. (when you are ready to work on it again, remember to disconnect the fuel cutoff switch, crank for a bit, and unhook the battery again)

    great! now you can blow your nose (to get all the dirt, metal filings, and sound deadening material out of there!), and stretch you legs!
    you can also see the next task at hand.

    it's fairly straight forward to disconnect these next parts. you can mark one of the fuel lines if you want(one is the return). i found that the fuel hoses are 'idiot proof' i found, they are different size diameters inside. (you will know when reinstalling if the hose doesn't go on all the way/and easily). try not to break the clips, you may have to reuse them. the other (on the drivers side) is the 'fumes return', and wiggles/pulls out pretty easy. cover the hole with a rag once removed...so no dirt gets in. (the reminds me... have a shopvac handy to vacuum up any dirt/rust you loosen along the way, you don't really want it falling in the tank). when re-installing, put rubber seal into into the tank first (there is a center rib cut out on the seal). you can put new di-electric grease on the connector if you get lots of rust/dirt in there.

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

    next, the assembly retainer/lockring. scrape the sliding parts (marked on diagram in red), so they can slide a little more freely. it will make life a lil easier once you do(i suppose you could use a bit of wd-40 or equivilent to help, but clean up good before you open it right up). then use a flat head screw driver to tap the upright metal tabs (on the diagram marked in yellow). you will have to do 2 taps at each opposing side (you really only need to concentrate on a set of 2, as oppossed to all 4), and you should see it moving slowly. make sure to vacuum up the mess before pulling the assembly up.

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

    next you can gently pull the assembly out, you can see when you have to twist/turn the assembly as you pull up, to clean the fuel level gauge float, and the pump and strainer assembly. use a clean rag to wipe down the seal, and clean the groove where it sits. you can cover the assembly's hole with a clean rag if you dont want any dirt getting in the large gapping hole.

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

    now the next task: to remove the fuel pump unit. this is kinda tricky...you really don't know what is holding the strainer on to the bottom of the fuelpump until you get it off! i almost destroyed mine trying to figure it out. this is also depending on if you got the fuelpump kit with all accessories, including the new strainer, sending unit and others. i just got the pump kit...it's an extra $100 i was told for the full kit.
    the trick is to gently pry around the whole bottom of the strainer/filter... there is a tension washer holding it onto the bottom of the pump. it doesn't really help to turn the strainer assembly on the pump...if other than to pry another spot). you have to be careful because its only plastic, albeit to my surprise fairly flexible, and tough plastic (i was able to salvage my original, which i mangled a bit finding out what was holding it together). the tension washer should stay in the strainer unit...unless you did it the way i learned (i was able to reinstall it). then you have to gently pry on the black clips on the unit (not sure what it is, but unclip both side to make life easier), on top of the pump. releasing them will allow you to slide the pump out of that piece. there are rubber seals in each also. next to get the pump out of the metal round piece, you may have to bend it out of shape a bit. try not to slice yourself (like i), and/or stab yourself with the flatblade screw driver ( i didn't...this time). the metal piece is welded to the one line coming down beside the pump. you should be able to gently wrestle the upper part of the pump unit out first, or which ever you find works. then unhook the red and black wires (they have different size connectors, so you can not put them on wrong upon re-assembly).

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    Alternate image if the one above doesn't show up.

    and most of it is reverse on removal. when you are putting the complete assembly back into the tank, makes sure the seal is clean and sitting right (you can adjust it with the flathead screwdriver as you need to push it in out of the way). and put the retainer/lockring into place, and hold down as you try to tap it into its slots...remember the diagram, the red markings. keep taping 2 opposite (or all 4 if you find better suited), until at the end with the lip. then connect the fuel lines back up (push them in all the way, and put good clips in, so they don't pull off). reinstall the electrical connection (make sure the clips hold it into place), and get the fumes return back in the drivers side.

    then its testing time! plug back in the fuel cutoff switch, connect the battery, and turn your key forward a few times (about 4 should be good) to get some fuel pressure back up to the engine. you should hear it going (albeit a lot quieter than the old one you replaced!) check for leaks, and then start her up! let it run for a bit and then shut it off, and try to restart a few more times.

    then you are on you own to 'patch the hole'. you can decide if you want to clean off some of the sound deadening material, then weld a 2" wide strip of metal onto the 'door', and then sheet metal screw it (not longer than 1"!) back into its original place. i wouldn't recommend welding the door assembly back on to the car...or else you may go up in smoke! and your work will be a wasted effort with no more car to drive...

    i hope this helps some people. i know i have been helped by a lot of other peoples experience!
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2008
  2. keith455

    keith455 SHO Member

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    Photo's are gone :(
     
  3. Storm-Chaser

    Storm-Chaser SHO Member

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  4. ohfosho

    ohfosho ontario SHOwner

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    here you go guys... sorry, some dumbazz changed around stuff on photobucket... bizzy contacted me, and i sent her the photos, so she may make something permanent just incase i do it again...will probably happen
     
  5. keith455

    keith455 SHO Member

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    WOW. that's big piece you cut out.. how did you fasten it back on?
     
  6. 925spdsho

    925spdsho It's a Taurus??

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    very nice how-to!:thumb:
     
  7. ohfosho

    ohfosho ontario SHOwner

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    i used a few small pieces of sheet metal (actually mine was 1/8" thick steel i grabbed from school when i was doing a welding course...didnt have access to thinner...), and i think 3/8" or 1/2" sheet metal screws (self tapping/drill point) and screwed into the car and to the piece that was cut out... then i duct taped all seams... does the trick. just be carefull of too long screws and where you put them.
     
  8. ManySHOs

    ManySHOs []=[] []

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    I wish this writeup was stickied. There are some good measurements there.

    Ian
     
  9. Bizzy

    Bizzy Moderator Staff Member

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    Your wish is my command.

    http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=86180

    Also, this thread has been updated with alternate links for the images in the event the ones that ohfosho posted go MIA. :thumb:
     
  10. ohfosho

    ohfosho ontario SHOwner

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    thanks bizzy... keep up the good work
     
  11. shoshirtsandhat

    shoshirtsandhat SHO Member

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    I did this to my SHO also but I did not cut an entire hole, only a hole that I can flip up and down and I also used an air chisel,,,It really worked nice
     
  12. ckinney89sho

    ckinney89sho fo SHO

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    i wish i would have seen this b4 i did mine, but in my defense where the bolts held the tank up the metal on the body was ripping, tearing. anyway i had to weld 1/4" metal and then drill a hole thru it to keep it up. but it was ok and i know that it'll stay up b/cuz i did it.
     
  13. Erich

    Erich SHO Member

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    When I did this replacement I dropped the tank entirely. Like ckinney I had stuck bolts (the heads eventually broke. We drove in sheet metal screws and that thing is rock solid.
     

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