Engine cooling upgrades?

Discussion in 'V8 - Performance Upgrades' started by gamefanatic, Jun 30, 2017.

  1. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    Yeah I had been looking around on the Internet, but to no avail. I believe ours is 3.5" and that a 4.0" would drive it nicely. Keeping in mind that pushing the pump faster will increase the flow rate and possibly PSI. I'm interested in testing. If you can't find something in the Junk yard, maybe someone with a 3D printer could do an ABS print for testing.

    As for radiators, they are available in the custom / universal styles. Universal would require some custom bracketing to keep the accumulator and lower cooling lines in place. Proper custom ones should be able to have those items taken into account like the OEM versions, though I'd expect 3x the price of an OEM.
     
  2. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    And do not forget that under the standard factory system, automatic transmission fluid has a cooling line that goes through the radiator, and you will need to take that into consideration.

    pax, smn
     
  3. Qshiplvr

    Qshiplvr SHO Member

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    Stephen: I take it the cooling line that goes through the radiator that you refer to above are these identical fittings towards the middle on the passenger (right) side?
    [​IMG]
     
  4. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks like it to me. I have not looked at it in many years, as I plugged mine up and put in an FPS transmission cooler instead, but I think that is right.

    One moment and I will go out and look. Yes, I think so. But to be sure I would have to take stuff apart to follow the lines, as they go into the shroud. Those holes look really small, compared to the lines I see going into them on my OEM radiator, though.

    pax, smn
     
  5. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    Keep in mind, that unless they include the parts, those transmission cooling lines are just a threaded hole. The factory lines are the push lock style. You would need to get an appropriate adapter to get the stock lines tapped in.

    Though I think most of us have an aftermarket / Gen2 cooler bypassing the stock radiator. IMHO is the only way it should be setup...
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2017
  6. 99sho-time

    99sho-time SHO Member

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    Just a shot in the dark out of curiosity but what do you guys think of water wetters? Something like royal purple ice. Gimmick? or just another thing to gum up our systems?
     
  7. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I run water wetter. There really isn't a huge benefit to running them unless you are on a track. The idea is that water is better at cooling than antifreeze (fact). However there are issues with running water alone like bubbling and higher PSI's at lower temps (compared to coolant mix or other cooling material). There are even coolants that state they never have to be changed (not cheap) and not good if you have a problem. So higher percentage of water you run can equal a higher PSI. This can lead to wearing out old hoses faster (they were gonna go anyway) and is a common problem when band-aiding cooling issues running straight water...

    The main reason for those "other" stabilizers is that many tracks won't let you run with coolant as it acts like an oil when it leaks on the track. It makes it nasty to clean up and is a safety hazard.

    My experience so far is that there is "minimal" effect of these products in their cooling capability... Also keep in mind that antifreeze and water wetter, etc work to lubricate your pump in addition to stabilizing (removing bubbles). Water is corrosive, but not so much on our aluminum blocks as the SLO cast iron types that rust up nicely...
     
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  8. Qshiplvr

    Qshiplvr SHO Member

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    Having a chemistry background, I have used water wetter products (Redline original, Purple Ice, etc) in a desert climate, and can vouch for real improvement in running cooler temps driving around town. I don't track my cars, so just wanted a little better cooling in a harsh environment. It is a surfactant (like a detergent) and improves heat transfer. I don't have hard test data to back up my claim, only anecdotal evidence. I do know, however, if you leave anything in your cooling system for too long, it is not good on the components. Not changing the coolant and water wetter after a year or two of high temp driving would be like not changing your oil for 20,000 miles or so. You can run that way, but not good for the internals of your engine and systems.
     
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  9. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    Good info, I haven't ran with the wetter for a full year yet, consecutively. I know coolant should be replaced every 2 years. One I get this sensor tuned in on the board I have, I should be able to provide conclusive results. Just need time to figure out the proper formula to get the proper temperatures. I may end up just building a table of known values otherwise...
     
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  10. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    Ok, I gone to scrapyard today and I took measurement of waterpumps pulleys. Duractech 2.5L and Duratech 3.0L have the same pulley dimensions : 5 inches of diameter.
     
  11. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I think those pulley's don't have the rips / grooves though right? They are a smooth surface?
     
  12. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    I didn't check this sadly...

    I just check on SHO and it's 4 inches... (and our have 3 mounting holes rather than 4 on others). :( I can check others motors when I have time but the 3 mounting holes can be a problem.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017

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