When I purchased my 2011 SHO a year and a half ago the lumbar adjustment did not work, at all. You're about to see why. I'm wishing now that I had done this repair the day I brought it home. I have the 10-way seats, which means I have a single power lumbar setting, rather than the three air bladder/massage setup. I could not find anything online about tearing one of these seats down. Hopefully someone finds this information useful! All the steps I followed were straight from a Ford official factory workshop manual. !!!!!!!!!!!!! EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION DURING THIS JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!! Most if not all gen 4 SHOs have airbags INSIDE the driver's seat. MAKE SURE YOU DEPOWER THE SRS SYSTEM before removing anything related to the airbag system. I've had an airbag blow up right in front of me (when it was supposed to, thankfully) and I don't ever want to see another one explode again, especially on accident. Here is the official way to do so: For anyone wondering, the Smart Junction Box is up underneath the dashboard, on the driver's side kick panel, way up high. There is a cover over it that releases with two clips, squeeze them and it's off. On the diagram find fuse 32, in the third row of fuses right next to the large gray relay. There should be a fuse removal tool mounted in the lid of the box. The photo below shows where the fuse should be, marked by the X in the box. Once the SRS system has been depowered, focus can be turned to the seat itself. First, position the seat toward the middle of the track and raise it up, so you can get to the cover overtop of the seat belt anchor point. The panel covering it simply slides off, with a bit of force. Remove the bolt. IIRC it is a 13mm. Next up are the rear seat bolts. Remove the two plastic trim pieces covering the brackets, then remove the 13mm bolts from inside the rails. The trim pieces are clipped in, they take some force but will come right out. Pull straight back towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor. Here is everything removed: Next up are the front seat bolts. There are (again) two plastic trim pieces covering the brackets, pull straight forward, parallel to the floor to remove them. They are clipped in similarly to the rear. This will reveal the two 13mm bolts, remove them as well. Please excuse the crusty floormat, I live in the midwest and it is winter. Fellow midwesterners will be overjoyed to know that the seat bolts live in brackets that do not see salt from the exterior of the vehicle! Mine wrenched out very easily. If this were a 90's Jeep, they would have probably snapped off. Ask me how I know. With the four bolts removed the seat is now loose. Tilt it back to reveal a spaghetti mess of wiring, but focus your attention on the two large connectors. They have large swinging release mechanisms, once the handle is released it should rotate and the connector should separate. The clips holding the handles in place were a pain to figure out, but once free my connectors released easily. Once these two connectors are disconnected, there is nothing else holding the seat to the vehicle. Remove the seat in whatever way you see fit. I strongly recommend calling a friend for this, the seat isn't exactly light and maneuvering it out of the door by yourself without destroying other interior components proved difficult. At this point you will be left with a gaping hole in the interior and whatever fast food remnants fell between the seat and the console. Surprisingly, I only had one fry down there. Rookie numbers, I'm sure.