Custom Front Motor Mount For Using ATX Accessories on 3.2 in MTX Swap

Discussion in 'Engine, Intake, Exhaust and Drive Line' started by rubydist, Nov 7, 2010.

  1. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    When I put the 3.2 in my "new" 92, I was very motivated to use the single belt accessory drive from the 3.2, because I just hate the 2-belt system on the 3.0. Inspired by some previous posts, I came up with an easy custom front motor mount, that virtually anyone can do.

    (As you may know, you can use the standard rear atx mount in the mtx application by simply rotating it 180* so it offsets the opposite direction. This is not perfect, as the steering rack bellows contacts it some, but it is fully functional.)

    I started with the right rear mount from a 2000 Taurus with a 3.0 Vulcan. This mount bolts through the subframe just like we would expect. Then, I took a couple of pieces of 2x2x3/16" angle and made them fit on the engine at the same location as the atx motor mount. Notice how I trimmed them so that the width is the same as the mount.

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    Then I fashioned a couple of pieces of 2x3/16" strap on the outsides of the angles to connect to the mount.

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    Since I don't have a welder, I did this all with bolted connections, but it would be more robust if the angles were welded together and the straps were welded to the angles.

    This design is simple, easy to construct, and uses way less space than the stock motor mounts.

    I have noticed that I get some chattering in reverse, so I should add the little shock to the system to dampen out that, but it works perfectly in all forward gears and with all throttle settings. The engine is held securely, but is not solidly mounted, so vibration in the cabin is very much like stock.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. boat

    boat Likes blue ones

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    Nice write up there, Fred, looks good :thumb: Thanks!
     
  3. lowc

    lowc aka vapah lock

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    nice work and i do agree the welds would give it a little more security.did you reinforce the bushing at all?
     
  4. St Louis SHO

    St Louis SHO Rollin' coal Staff Member Club Mod

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    Nice job. I doubt though that the chattering is from the mount though. I'd like to see a pic of the rear mount flipped if you have one. :)

    - James
     
  5. Phoenix

    Phoenix SHOHOLIC

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    Good job on the engineering of this I really like it. just food for thought, this is mine that I fabbed years ago , its currently in my 2002.


    [​IMG]
     
  6. firebat45

    firebat45 SHO Member

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    If I were you I'd take a cold chisel or a punch and hammer each bolt/nut connection pretty solid, to keep them from vibrating loose. If any one of those starts to loosen off you're in for some trouble. Either that or take it to a welding shop to get it welded.

    Other than that, looks great. I had a similar idea a while ago, but haven't had the motivation to actually do it yet.
     
  7. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    The bolts are loctited in place.
     
  8. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    Nice work. Does the stock mtx mount only pick up on those two lower bolt holes at the bottom of the block? I thought it was more integrated with the AC compressor (distributing the load better).

    More importantly, does the ATX single drive bllet system package the SHO engine shorter (width wise)? Always hated that alternator pulley being so close to the battery.

    Lastly is Vulcan mount liquid filled?

    zak
     
  9. quikSHOilver

    quikSHOilver Yamahaized

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    Good Job fab that up!
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  10. whiteguy3

    whiteguy3 Scott MacIntire

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    Good job. I would weld most of those bolted connections though. I agree though about the size difference from the stock mounts. I have my solid front and rear motor mounts on my ATX and they are half the size of the stock mounts, much more room down there.
     
  11. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    Thanks. The stock atx mount only uses those 2 holes under the a/c compressor. Of course, the atx mount is located such that the load is pretty much vertical, whereas the load on this definitely has some torque component to it, but the fasteners are large, and the loads are not huge ( [engine torque x gear ratio multiplier] - about 200 lbs of engine weight = less than 600 lbs for most of our engines )

    The single belt drive makes the engine about 1" shorter, as you don't have the second belt for the p/s pump. Unfortunately, that doesn't change where the alternator pulley is. More importantly to me, is I don't have to screw with allen wrenches down in the engine compartment to get the belt tension right, or hear belts screeching if its too loose.

    You have a good view of the mount in the first photo - it looks to be just the rubber vulcanized inside the steel hoop. Its pretty stiff, so I doubt that its liquid filled.
     
  12. firebat45

    firebat45 SHO Member

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    I wouldn't trust (blue) loctite to that, but it's good to hear you did think about keeping the bolts solid.
     
  13. Joe_SHO

    Joe_SHO SHO Member

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    Next step is mass produce and sell me one! ;)

    If one uses a custom MM and the ATX subframe, I know it allows you to use the ATX accessories, but what about everything else? Does it allow you to use ATX oil pan, exhaust manifold, etc? This: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2293296/1993-ford-taurus-buffalo-ny-us?p=1 makes it sound like a custom motor mount eliminates just about all other hassle. Is that what the rest of you have found? Thanks.

    And seriously you should hook me up with one of these. How much would you need for one?

    -Joe
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2010
  14. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    One uses the regular mtx subframe. The engine has the 3.2 accessories and the 3.2 pan. There is a slight difference at the flywheel end, so that there is a bolt missing from the engine to transmission connection, but all the block to transmission ones are there, and they are the important ones. You still need the mtx exhaust manifolds and y-pipe, and the 3.0 engine wiring harness is required. And, the low oil sensor is on the opposite side of the pan, so I extended the wire that runs to that.

    At this point, I'm not interested in producing the mount, but anyone with enough skills to modify a SHO could make these parts.
     
  15. Slo-Sho

    Slo-Sho It wasn't me!

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    [​IMG]




    Here is my modded MTX front mount to use on the 3.2 setup.
    You will also have to make a 2nd custom mount for the jack shaft.... I'm curious to see what you pull off. :nut:
     
  16. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    The bearing mount for the rh trans output shaft is made similarly, with a piece of the angle and a piece of the straight strap. Somehow, I didn't get any decent photos of that.... There are several other threads on that subject that show the same type of thing, I just copied their work on that.
     
  17. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    Here (rather belatedly) are some photos that show the rear motor mount and support for the right intermediate driveshaft bearing:

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    [​IMG]

    A close look at the bottom left of the last photo will show that there is just a little rubbing of the bellows from the steering rack on the motor mount - certainly not desired but not so bad as to tear the bellows. (This is the standard rear atx motor mount rotated 180 degrees so the offset of the motor is to the rear rather than to the front.)

    The bearing support is just a couple of pieces of angle and strap iron bolted together, as others have done in the past.
     
    VortecGT likes this.
  18. RedDemonSHO

    RedDemonSHO New Member

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    do you have any measurements on fabbing the front mount with the factory mtx mount??? thanks
     
  19. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    any objections to just welding in a solid motor mount?
     
  20. boat

    boat Likes blue ones

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    Hey Fred,
    How is this holding up after about a year's use?
     

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