Crank, No start, 27k Motor Swap

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Emergency Issues - Performance Upgrade' started by auto.guru, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    So i was pretty sure i knew how to read engine codes... but apparently not.

    i didnt think it was this difficult. I pretty sure they are obd1 3 digit codes, but not 100% sure. Here is the link if anyone cares to troubleshoot it.

    http://www.facebook.com/v/313576781996496

    A/c has been removed entirely.
    Cat coverters are not hooked up at the time being.

    The car cranks but does not start. I thought it to be the DIS mod according to Mr Dodd, but even when i grounded that out straight to the battery it still wont start. Its a 27k motor, with a new cam sensor. I do not have access to a scan tool, but do have a multimeter.

    Tips, Tricks, suggestions?
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  2. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    551
    Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) circuitfailure
    114
    ACT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
    116
    ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts

    ok... got it figured out finally. but wth is act?


    omg... it hit me in the face like a bag of rocks....
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  3. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    No spark. 983948193ikljskdjfkasd kjfkasdjfkasjdkfjkj
    ugh...
    whats the proper way to test the DIS mod?
    ill check the CKP, CPS...
     
  4. 91PDXmocha

    91PDXmocha Active Member

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    Did you check for spark ?
    Did you check for fuel ?
    Have you touched the timing on the car ?


    Start at the basics and go from there .
     
  5. VortecGT

    VortecGT SHO Member

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    27k! where did you find that! Sounds to me like a DIS or Crank Sensor problem. Maybe from sitting for so long the toothed gear on the crank developed some rust? I would start by making sure you have power to the coil and then check for signal at the coil. Shouldn't be to hard the only components are the crank, cam, DIS coil, wires and plugs.
     
  6. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    its a story about the motor....
    in short.. a guy came in to FORD with an "oil light flickering" problem... after they did a lot of tests they couldnt find the prob. So the guy wanted it fixed under warranty. PRESTO! new motor. guy comes back in 2 weeks later with the same oil light flickering.
    Tech goes on a test drive with the guy. Turns out he was nearly snubbing the car causing the light to flicker (IDIOT!!!) the tech bought the motor right from the dealership he worked at. 27k motor. $500, and i bought it from him for $400. Sat ever since 1994. he was planning on doing a ranger RWD swap, but was injured in a car accident and is paralyzed from the waist down. so there... motor is mine

    using my multimeter how do i check those components. I SUCK at electrical... ugh

    timing cover was off, but never touched it. I have fuel rail pressure. Have not pulled the plugs since i first putt them in a day ago. Fuel pump primes and the only codes listed above are all thats present. the IMRC is because i havent plugged that in yet. thats my fault
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  7. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    would the knock sensor have any effect?
     
  8. VortecGT

    VortecGT SHO Member

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    None of the codes or knock senor would cause a no start condition. Not really sure how to test the sensors but if the timing covers are off try cleaning everything up. Are you sure you have no spark?
     
  9. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    positive, induction timing lights are great to see if you have spark :) and seeing which cyl is causing a misfire without pulling each plug out :D
     
  10. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    ok... fixed the no spark issue.
    i have spark now to all cylinders
    i have fuel pressure at the fuel rail - but unsure of the injectors

    what could be the cause/symptom/problem... ect ect

    there is a ground on the block under the fuel rail if i recall correctly...
     
  11. frosho

    frosho WOLFMAN

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    I think that ground is for the O2 sensors, but don't quote me on that.
     
  12. VortecGT

    VortecGT SHO Member

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    Do you have injector pulse? Unplug an injector and put a your meter to the ground side. Have someone crank the car and see if you get any change.
     
  13. NoSlo

    NoSlo GoldMember

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    The engine was running when it was pulled, so you have to look at stuff you didn't hook up right. One thing to consider is the the year of the car it was pulled from (27k in 94 = ~91?), and see what kind of wiring harness stuff might be different, different relay packs, etc.
     
  14. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    i see where you are going with that comment of the year thing...
    It was an MTX, but weird that the alt bracket was different from mine.... had to swap them out. but i do see what you are getting at. I have 1 radiator fan plug FEMALE end missing the MALE end. i compared to the old harness. Its not present. but that doesnt matter much... i cant use the old harness off of the new motor, i have to use the one from my old motor. The "used" harness had a cluster of things cut from it... :mad: only by the throttle body...

    http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=76613&highlight=fuel+rail
    i pulled off the intake and stuck an LED light to the positive and negative of the CONNECTOR. grouded out the DIS and saw the light flicker. Started the car to find the LED light would blink hella fast. so we know the PCM is firing - or sending a pulse to the injectors. I hooked up a + and - to the injector and all i got was a small spark. No click, no noise, no smell of fuel, nothing.

    Due to the car sitting for 14 some odd years i would think they are seized injectors or assume 6 bad ones. Since there are no cats on it... smelling fumes from the manifolds is easy in a closed garage. I dont smell anything of a burning type. Although i am sick... you should be able to tell when fuel would be pooling in 5 cylinders, and one cylinder with the plug out.

    get what im saying?
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  15. kevinspann

    kevinspann 87 Octane

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    If the alt bracket was different, you have a pre 94 motor. The 94 and 95s use different brackets and alternators, along with several other wiring differences. This could be part of your issue.
     
  16. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    .....
     
  17. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    found 4 out of 6 injectors were non functional. so i swapped them out and put the fuel rail back on, intake, and ect.

    Tried to start it up until steve yelled "FIRE!!!", turns out one of the o ring seals busted and was leaking gas. Gasoline + manifold backfire = flames. o.0

    so i gotta rip apart the fuel rail again... but still unsure why it didnt start up... ill have to check the timing on it
     
  18. VortecGT

    VortecGT SHO Member

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    Sounds like your getting closer!
     
  19. auto.guru

    auto.guru Village Idiot

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    closer, yes.
    but its been too long for this motor swap. not enough time in the day, and long nights in the garage - im sure lots of us all know how that feels.

    ill do a search on the forum here for timing.
     
  20. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    hey ass hat, making two threads on the same issues in two separate sections isn't going to help anything.

    Now I'm annoyed.
     

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