Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Suspension, Brakes & Body' started by TimboSHO, Jul 29, 2017.
Thanks. That looks really good, and I agree that looks like the best option and geometry. Thumbs up!
Ok, I finally got the car out and to the alignment shop (my work). The back didn't change a whole lot, I just had to adjust the height
a bit to get the rear ones even after driving it. The fronts stayed at the same height and no adjustments necessary. The front alignment was giving me issues until I realized that I should just take the upper factory plates off! That helped a ton, because I couldn't tell if the strut was moving or just the plate sometimes! The driver's side maxed out at -1.5deg camber (caster was about 5). Is anyone able to get more camber? I thought I should be able to get more with the adjustable mounts. I have them set at the middle dampening setting and they are very stiff, but still streetable. I think I will try the softest setting when I drive it to storage next week and see how that feels.
I had one question. The car has a little bit of hanging up in one or both of the mounts. When I steer I get some popping as it hangs up and releases. This also causes some memory steer issues (when I turn right it will pull right, when I turn left it will pull left). Is this just part of initial break in? I know it will make no difference on the track, but it a little annoying on the street.
So, I'm very happy with them, but only have about 6 miles on them too. The car will be going to sit for the next 6 months, so I will be very anxious to get it out in the spring and try them out!
For the camber, which direction is the yellow block bolted into the black plate? The yellow block is reversable, and it may have been bolted in the other way for shipping. One warning: on the last camber plate batch we expanded the slot distance to allow for extreme camber (customer request), but we did not expand the steel backing plate to match because we already had a lot made up. Most are fine with the range on the steel plate, but if you need more, you may have to lengthen the opening in the steel plate to match the aluminum plate. Does that make sense?
For the popping and binding, I always recommend dielectric grease between the cup and plastic ball and also between the plastic ball and the yellow block. It will help keep things from binding. If you keep having issues, please let me know.
Ok, I looked at it and the yellow block is to the outside, which makes sense why I couldn't get any more camber. In the spring I will flip those around and put some dielectric grease on. I thought I read somewhere not to put any lube on them as it just collects dirt.
I'm sad that I have to put it away for the winter, but hopefully I'll be able to give some more driving experiences on track in the spring!
Thanks for all of your help Mike!
When there is nowhere to put a wrench or Allen wrench, I try to hold the shaft with my hand (phrasing) and a quick snug with an impact.
Get the collar to touch the spring and tighten a touch more. DO NOT put any real preload on it.
Mostly a guess to start with. Install, lower car, measure fender to center hub, calculate what you desire for ride height and raise back up to adjust.
Lower car (4-post lift or lower on blocks), take out preload, and tighten down.
What is the proper way to adjust ride height once they are installed?
Measure, jack up car, take off wheel, clean threads, unlock collar, turn shock body by hand based on measurements, lock collar, put wheel on, lower car, measure... Rinse and repeat.
Took them apart this weekend to flip the yellow block and greased them. Noticed some galling in the upper cups where they ride against the yellow blocks. After getting them back together I noticed that the sleeves that go over the strut shaft and in the inside of the articulating mounts are loose (should have a wider outer diameter?) and the mount moves back and forth on the strut shaft, which I believe is causing the binding (it was better after greasing, but not all the way).
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