ccrm working cooling fan..???

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Electronics & Audio' started by silversho92, Dec 20, 2015.

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  1. silversho92

    silversho92 SHO Member

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    Haha thanx... ya took bout an hour. But pb blast, hammer, and punch....got it.!!

    Soo I am seriously considering anothr ccrm .....like Luigisho said...Wud b nice to have extra....

    So I have been testing sho / cooling fan by actually jus letting car get Hella hott ...all the way to 'N' on temp gauge and fan Does finally kick on and cools temp down to 'R' which (in my opinion) seems a lil too hott... i say this because it Nevr seemed to get that hott before (I started having all these cooling/temp problems)...
    Is this where yalls SHOs kick on cooling fan...??? Or have I jus never noticed it getting this hott before...??
     
  2. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Member Staff Member

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    you really cannot use the dash gauge to tell when the fan should be kicking on - they are notoriously inconsistent and variable. to tell, you will need a real temperature gauge. having a look at the two wire temp sensor would be a good idea - you can measure the resistance across it and confirm that it is varying and also that the connection is not all corroded up.
     
  3. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    My experience after 4-5 SHO's is that the temp gauges vary between cars but have a normal range in a particular vehicle that you become familiar with. If this is operating outside the normal operation that you have observed over time- then either the gauge has started to read differently due to the temp sensor or the car is running differently.
     
  4. itwonder

    itwonder SHO Member

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    What you are seeing on tthe temperature gauge is what you will get with a single speed fan. The single speed fan used on the '92 is simply not adequate, and the car will run too hot in high ambient temperatures. The two speed fan from a later model SHO or 3.8L Taurus will drop right in. All of these fan motors are aging now, and I recommend getting a brand new aftermarket two-speed unit instead. The one I installed is from Dorman, made in China, but it works very well. I wired it so the fan wire from the CCRM powers the low speed winding on the fan. This cools about as well as the old single speed fan. I then wired in a relay and switch to control it. The relay, when energized, cuts out the low speed winding and feeds the high speed winding with a dedicated (40A fuse) 10 gauge lead from the battery terminal. This provides a manual capability to run the fan on high when extra cooling is needed, just flick the switch on, and the fan runs on high; switch off and the CCRM controls the fan on low . If that's too complicated, you can simply use only the high speed winding by wiring the CCRM fan lead to control the relay coil, and wiring the dedicated lead from the battery through the relay contacts to the high-speed winding. Thus, the fan will run on high whenever the CCRM calls for fan, and the low speed is not used. I advise not trying to power the high-speed winding directly from the CCRM fan lead. On high, it draws 30 amps; about twice what the original single speed fan draws, and that may be too much current for the CCRM to supply directly.
     
  5. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    You guys rock! So much knowledge, there for the asking :thumb:
     
  6. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    And just to clarify things a little. The single wire coolant temp sensor feeds the dash guage and the two wire sensor feeds information to the computer, which then decides whether to send a ground to the correct relay in the CCRM that then sends huge current to the fan(s).

    Different single wire coolant sensors create different signals (more resistance or less resistance) in the path from the guage on the dash to vehicle ground. For example, one sensor will experience 180 degrees and put 55 ohms of resistance to ground on that single wire (engine coolant manifold to heads to block to ground lead in valley of block to negative post of battery) and yet another sensor will experience the same 180 degrees and only put 30 ohms in that path, thereby causing that ohm meter (AKA the temp guage in the dash) to show a different reading. Ford has used about 4 or 5 different sensors over the last 50 years, so make sure you get one for the Taurus SHO dash guage and not a Taurus SLO or 55 Pickup.

    I can pull out my wiring diagrams if you need to know more.

    Tom
     
  7. silversho92

    silversho92 SHO Member

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    Thanks for all the replys and info...

    I did replace both sensors....single wire temp Guage and double wire ect. Didn't thnk to check part numbers tho...

    But now things are getting more wierd.... so when i start car and drive down hwy temp gauge stays at "M" to "L" (which is what I believ is normal operating temp)

    However when I pull over and sit w engine running the temp climbs all the way up to "N" before cooling fan kicks on...

    Temp then proceeds to go back down to "M" (normal temp to me) and then seems to jus stay there b tween "M" and "L" ......as cooling fan seems to kick on and off accordingly.... keeping car at normal temp with out ever goin back up to "N" again...

    Is there somethng goin on here or what...?? Ccrm goin out..? (Maybe) or air in cooling system. ..? Jus seems really odd to me ....
     
  8. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    Sounds like air pockets. Burp that baby!
     
  9. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Member Staff Member

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    that sounds typical of a 92 with the single speed fan - there is a noticeable swing in the temp gauge as the fans kick on and run.
     
  10. itwonder

    itwonder SHO Member

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    Completely normal on the '92, when the A/C is off. When the A/C is on, the fan runs all the time ( if you are below 40 mph) so it will act differently. You don't need to change anything. However, if you live in a hot climate where you will ever see ambient temperatures over 100 degree F, you should upgrade to the two-speed fan because the engine will get hot enough to blow coolant out the overflow at idle in those temps.
     
  11. EL SHO

    EL SHO Taco Manager

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    Not to try to hijack this thread, even being almost 1 yr old, but Im having similar temp issues with my 94 ATX and I'd like to know if there was a final solution for your 92 SHO temp issues.
    So far I've replaced temp sensor and temp sending unit, thermostat and flushed and burped the cooling system of air.. I think I did it correctly. Radiator is 2 yrs old and coolant is brand new.
    Low speed fans turn on, they will lower the temp all the way "M" or "A" but seem to kick in late, high speed fans turn on with AC on, still temp gauge will go as high as to the "O" of the "NORMAL" range with AC off.
    I have a spare CCRM that I'm thiking of swapping to see if things improve, but would like to know if there was any solution for your car.
    Any comments??
     

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