Brakes

Discussion in 'V8 Discussion' started by EdgardoGValadez, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. EdgardoGValadez

    EdgardoGValadez New Member

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    Has anyone ever put drilled or slotted brakes on these car before ?

    also where could I buy a set at.
     
  2. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    Ron Porter, current SHO Club El Presidente would highly recommend against such frivolity.

    Last I recall, he was/is a BIG FAN of solid rotors and I believe the brand name he favored were/are "Carbotechs".

    Hopefully he'll see this, and add his own two cents as he sees fit.

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  3. Zpak

    Zpak SHO Member

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    I have Powerstop drilled and slotted. I got them from Summit. Stops like a beast. From research and personal experience I think they are probably the best middle ground between daily driving and performance use for the money. With the evolution Z-23 pads my only complaint is that they are a bit noisy after about 5K miles and they don’t last as long as OEM. But, that’s expected with their enhanced performance.
     
  4. Zpak

    Zpak SHO Member

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    coming from the guy with the fanciest brake setup I’ve ever seen on a Taurus. Hahaha ;)
     
  5. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    I know, right!?!?!?!

    But I haven't always followed our illustrious leader's advice mind you.

    As evidenced by my own choice to rock the big brake set up from Wilwood on my heavily modified GEN4.


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  6. Zpak

    Zpak SHO Member

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    It was funny, shortly after I put the Powerstop’s on my wife drove my car. After almost putting us both through the windshield she said, what’s wrong with you!? Nobody’s car stops like this!!!
     
  7. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I once had the drilled slotted rotors on my SLO. Driving on a slight decline and put about 50% on the brakes all at once and didn't slow down a bit, but made a whole lotta noise... Moral of the story, don't stop at upgrading the brakes if you want to stop now...
     
  8. EdgardoGValadez

    EdgardoGValadez New Member

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  9. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    The drilling and slotting is now what causes sudden huge brake onset, but rather how the calibers are set up to respond. D&S simply gives better cooling by increasing the surface area of the disk and provides an easy place for residue to move off the disk quickly (plus, of course, a slight decrease in weight). If you are not using the breaks a lot and hard, overheating and residue on the disks is likely not going to be a problem, so moving to D&S is pretty much a wasted effort.

    pax, smn
     
  10. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    I don't know if someone saw them in US but I put on mine ATE brand with small elliptical grooves on them to evacuate water and dust. I must admit that in heavy water, you don't have to pump the brake to brake (security upgrade ?). I have them since 5 years now and they still strong (no rust, good tickness). They were sold as high quality here (Canadian Tire store) some year ago. Sadly, they are no more offered there now.

    Also their look fit with the elliptical look of the Gen 3. :)
    412ZOYIK-yL.jpg

    Also, if you are searching braking power, you can retreive the valve bias of the rear brakes. Which is could be considerated as a maintenance upgrade because thiese valve be cloggled overtime and retreive progressively brake power to the rear end.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2019
  11. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I should also add that many shops wont turn slotted / drilled rotors simply because of the problems related to scrapping their bits across the open portions and the damage that can occur to both their equipment as well as the rotor.

    Might not be a big deal, but I have rarely had a "need" to replace my solid rotors vs just getting them turned due to uneven pad build up.
     
  12. PaulTAutoX

    PaulTAutoX Member

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    My $.02 is that drilled is for race cars where you're willing to do the regular inspections for cracking starting at the drill holes. It's also much harder on the pad life due to the edges. Yes, they are lighter, but the loss of thermal mass means that the rotor may get to hotter peak temps which somewhat offsets the increase in cooling.

    Slotting has similar effects on pad life though it varies with the aggressiveness of the pattern. Generally not as likely to cause cracking, and said to be better for the first wet brake application, though I have no personal experience. I have friends who tried slotted rotors for their track day cars and found that they ate pads quicker than non-slotted.

    I bought cryogenically (frozen) treated rotors because they have been shown to have better life, and skipped the slotting and drilling. I think this last set was Centric brand, don't have the receipt handy. They are available at Tire Rack. I use Carbotech Bobcat (I think the p/n is 1521?) compound because I don't track this car, and pads never get hot enough at autocross to fade, and they are consistent first stop to later ones unlike the Hawks I had which had to get a least a little heat to grab.
     
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  13. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    I second the issue with cracking. I had the Baer Rotors and they cracked within a few months of use. Never went back to them mostly due to lack of stock and gave up waiting after a month on back order.

    I generally just use the top flavor of Duralast Gold pads. Lifetime warranty and properly bedded no issues. I have Yellow Stuff pads for my Cobra Calipers I haven't used yet.
     
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  14. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    My Porsche 997.2 C4S came with drilled rotors, and it is getting toward 10 years old now with no indications of cracking. And I do, on occasion, brake very hard as most of my really fast driving occurs on rural back roads where deer and livestock tend to show up rather unexpectedly, as, on occasion when trying new routes, do very hard and not well apexed curves. Of course, those rotors likely cost a mint, too.

    pax, smn
     
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  15. 99sho-time

    99sho-time SHO Member

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    I don't care for the vibration they cause. our cars don't need anything making it harder on parts. so i got rid of my power stops.
     
  16. gamefanatic

    gamefanatic SHO Member

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    Drilled or Slotted?
    20191108_114716.jpg 20191108_114725.jpg
     
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  17. Michael W House

    Michael W House New Member

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    The single best thing I did for my '99 was installing StopTech drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk HP pads. The difference in stopping power and pedal feel is actually hard to explain because it's so dramatic! I've used this rotor and pad combination on a number of different vehicles, have recommended it to friends looking to upgrade and all have been impressed and satisfied. I had ATI rotors on a Gen3 Jetta GLX and didn't like the pulsating hum under hard braking, though they worked well. These rotors don't make much noise, are nicely progressive and bite really, really hard the deeper you get into the pedal. I've got many thousands of miles on them on several different vehicles and have never regretted it. One thing though! You must do all four wheels! I did one, then the other and there is a big, big improvement with a set on the rear!
     
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