Blend Door Actuator Part #? (pics)

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Electronics & Audio' started by Rockledge, Jul 6, 2004.

  1. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Blend Door Actuator - Part Number - Repair

    Picked up a new BDA (mine is doing the death thump) and the part # on the box (F3DZ-19E616-A) is not the same as the one printed on the actual part itself (F3DH-19E694-AB). I called the dealer about it and they said it's the same part, don't worry. Which means of course that now I'm worried. :squint:

    Can anyone confirm if this is the right part? Apparantly it consists of both the "motor" and the attached "plate", as shown in the pics below:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    OK, how about just a visual confirmation then, can anyone do that for me?
     
  3. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    I noticed that the part # for the plate in this diagram (from a previous post by ckinart) is very close to the part # that is located on the BDA motor on my new part. Funny how that is:

    [​IMG]

    In any case, I reckon it's good enough to just go forward and see what it all looks like once I'm (shivering now) deep inside the depths of my SHO's dash. :bonk:
     
  4. ckinart

    ckinart New Member

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    Rockledge,

    I'd like to help you more if I could, but (fortunately) I haven't had to go after my blend door actuator to date (*pounding on wood*). If it makes you feel any better, it's been my experience that Ford assigns alternate part numbers to "post-production" runs of many parts. Once a line of parts is no longer used in a current production vehicle, they assign an alternate part number to denote the "aftermarket" production line as to differentiate from the two.

    I don't suppose that helps much. :eek:

    *Edit: I just realized that your problem is a different part number between the box and the part. I was thinking the part number from your new part was different from the old. Well then, I'm really not helping much, am I? :confused:

    Wish I could do more. Good luck!
     
  5. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Thanks Corey. :thumb: Although I get the feeling I'm going to need a lot more patience than luck on this one. :headbang: :D

    What you say does make sense. I know that the numbers are close enough where I probably do have the right part in hand. I guess I'll know soon enough. :shrug:

    I'm hoping that the newer generation BDAs are built better and will last longer than the originals, so that nobody's ever going to have to pull the dash on my SHO again just to replace one of these little buggers...
     
  6. Shoaz

    Shoaz Studly dood

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    We just changed mine out a few weeks ago, and it appears to be the correct part.
     
  7. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Well, I started on the BDA repair today and got as far as pulling the dash and taking off the old BDA and bracket. Just as everyone says, so far it's been a hassle, but not impossible, just time being invested and patience being tested.

    I was able to unclip the speedo off the guages from behind the dash which was a big time saver. Once the dash was pulled back and I had removed the old unit (easier said than done), I postioned the new BDA and bracket I have on hand and it does look like it will fit OK.

    However, when I looked a little closer, I found something that was a pretty big surprise ...there was one of those "mini" bic lighters wedged in door area which had jammed it all up! :eek: I have no idea how the lighter could have gotten down there. I don't smoke so it must have been on the the previous owner's watch. But still, how the heck could it get down there in the first place? Through the center dash vent, maybe? Otherwise, someone would have had to drop it while replacing a heater core, or some other kind or repair like that.

    I do realize that this means my original BDA could actually still be functional, but oh well, it's still getting replaced, now that I am in there this deep.

    Anyway, the problem is that the "opening" at the top of the door hinge (the part where the BDA stem slides into it) is now cracked, and I'm not sure the stem will fit in there as snugly as it should. Could this possibly be a problem later on? I was hoping I could wrap a piece of silicone tape on the stem or something like that to help make sure it plugs into the door more securely. The door moves nice and free now.

    Any feedback on this would be appreciated.
     
  8. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    OK, here is Plan A:

    Before I quit for the day, I squeezed a few drops of super glue in the crack on the door hinge, and I'm using a small pair of vice grips as a clamp.

    Wondering now if I should also put a few small drops of a silicone sealer on the BDA stem before I slide it into the door hinge. Thinking it might be a way to add some further strength.

    Anyone have any thoughts on Plan A? How about ideas for a Plan B?
     
  9. Mr Anonymous

    Mr Anonymous Tire Wall

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    That is probably the correct part. It is very common practice at Ford for a part to have more than one number. One is the engineering number, and the other is the actual post-production part number.

    F3DZ means its a Taurus/Sable part. The actual description in the Ford parts system reads "Mtr & plate asy-a/c dr actu el". This part would be common to all Tauruses and Sables with electronic climate control (including SHO's), so it's unlikely the dealer made a mistake.
     
  10. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Thanks for the additional feedback.

    I decided to modify Plan A a little bit, since I'm not entirely comfortable with simply gluing things and hoping they hold. Consequently, I decide to add some additional support to the top of the blend door hinge where the opening for the BDA stem is located.

    You can see from the pics below that my chosen method was a small zip tie pulled very tight around the area that was cracked. I did my best to line up the "head" of the zip tie in such a manner as to (hopefully) not interfere with the door spinning open and shut. My initial impression is that it will work fine, and the zip tie really adds a lot more strength to the area that needs it.

    Right now I'm taking a break, so here's a few pics:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  11. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Well, looks like the repair of my SHO's blend door is a success :) I finally buttoned everything back up this morning (got a little off track yesterday)and took a nice long test ride. It was so nice to be able to completely control the temperature, going from hot to cold flawlessly. A/C kicking on and blowing cold when it's supposed to, and the heater pumping out hot air when it is supposed to. No noises to indicate any kind door issues, and obviously the new BDA was/is the right part and is functioning just fine. What a genuine relief after all that hassle.

    :thumb:
     
  12. Shoaz

    Shoaz Studly dood

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    Cool! Glad to hear of your success. That's definitely a job that's good to have behind you... ;)
     
  13. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    A few closing thoughts on my Blend Door repair.

    There are 3 screws that hold the new BDA bracket in place. They are all in tight areas, but the #3 screw, the one deepest under the fire wall, is pretty much buried. So, when I installed the new bracket on the car, I cut a little slot out of the tab area on the bracket which has the hole where the #3 screw goes through it (if you look at the first picture I posted in this thread, I added a white arrow to the area I am talking about). This allowed me to install the #3 screw first, without the bracket being in the way, tightening it down to about the right height of the plastic tab. I was then able to slide the bracket into place, secure the other two screws, and then go back and finish tightening the #3 screw down. After that, I clipped the motor unit down into place on the bracket while lining up the hole on the door hinge with the BDA stem. Worked well, and I honestly can't see how else it could have been done. :shrug:

    Also, I decided to check out my old BDA last night, so I pried it apart in order to take a look, and it seems to be mechanically OK. What I found inside was a rather simple setup consisting of a small motor with gears which turn the stem that sticks into and controls the blend door. It looks like the stem has a "sliding contact" type of relationship with the circuit board, which contains copper tracks for this purpose. I think pics will tell a better story:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Finally, there may be a lesson to be learned here, and that is, throwing keys, coins and/or any other similarly-sized articles on top of your dashboard is an ill-advised practice. Clothes with pockets containing these kind of articles should be kept off the dash. I don't know for sure how that mini bic lighter got down in my blend door area, but the fact of the matter is, it was there, and it screwed things up enough for me to have to go in and fix it. :mad:

    Just something to keep in mind. :thumb:
     
  14. AREA 91

    AREA 91 PA SHO SHOP

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    However, when I looked a little closer, I found something that was a pretty big surprise ...there was one of those "mini" bic lighters wedged in door area which had jammed it all up! I have no idea how the lighter could have gotten down there. I don't smoke so it must have been on the the previous owner's watch. But still, how the heck could it get down there in the first place? Through the center dash vent, maybe?

    This EXACT same thing was found in a 90. If fell down the defroster holes.
     
  15. TigerDan

    TigerDan New Member

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    Joe;

    Old thread, I know...but great pics and very informative. My question is this: are the Gen I and Gen II the same as far as the HVAC systems are concerned? My '91 only blows cold air so I suspect the BDA has quit in the full cold position where it's been all summer. Self-diagnostic test gives a code 2, blend door problem. I've just been poking and prodding in through the glove box access hoping I could maybe catch a glimpse of the little bugger and try to move it open by hand a touch so I can get a little heat, but no go...guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and go in.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2008
  16. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Hi Dan,

    The only possible difference I am aware of is that some early Gen I Taurus BDAs utilize a different harness connector than later years. Your SHO is a '91 so I'm not sure that you will run into that issue if you order the same part that I did. (If you do run into a problem, IIRC the remedy is to splice the wiring). It may be worthwhile for you to hold off on buying the part until you pull the old unit out and know for certain what you need.

    Good luck with the project. Make sure to refer to the relevant articles in the "How Do I..?" forum.
     
  17. Devin

    Devin 3.Slow

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    From experience, there are no known sources of new Gen 1 BDAs. SHO Source is looking for them but they have not found them yet.

    The Gen1s have a harness soldered onto the PCB, the Gen2s have a harness that plugs into the BDA. The Gen2 unit does bolt in properly, and the stem that moves the door enters the mechanism correctly. I of course cannot say that it would work if you could fab or change the harness because I never was successful. Note the Gen2 unit says F2 on the PN which means it was made in 92. I don't know why it took so long for FPN to get that understanding. :nut:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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