Alternator replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Engine, Exhaust, Drive Line & AC syste' started by Bryan, Dec 2, 2017.

  1. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Okay so I had my 92 out and now have found out the alternator isn't charging right anymore. So how is the job on removing the alternator? Looks pretty accessible, but how do I loosen the tension on the belt? I see a pulley and it looks like its sits on a slotted part of the motor with a nut on it and a hex threaded bolt with what looks like a c-clip on it. Is this the tensioner for the alternator?
     
  2. zoomlater

    zoomlater SHO Member

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    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
  3. sperold

    sperold Last to Know

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    The disappointing part of this job is having to remove the battery tray which is usually rusted.
    Speaking of rust, one episode I experienced was the adjuster threads were rusted and I had to remove the entire cast aluminum adjuster to free it up. Luckily, that part was fairly easy.

    At that point, I swore that I would move the adjuster once a year from then on, which I never did, of course.
     
  4. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Ok so how in the heck do you get the alternator off? Some say this is an easy job, but it looks like the A/C lines are in the way. How in the hell do you get the back two bolts off the alternator? It's impossible to get a ratchet in there and even if you could there is like no room to turn it. What am I supposed to do? Rip out the damn radiator as well? It's all in the way.
     

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  5. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Okay so with a little encouragement (a pry bar pressing against the alternator on the AC line) I was able to "gently" nudge the AC lines out of the way just enough to get my ratchet on to the bolt. AC is probably going to leak now I guess. Well that's IF it even worked in the first place. ::Shrugs:: Oh well... guess I'll have to live with something that didn't work anyway right?
     
  6. rubydist

    rubydist Moderator Staff Member

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    I have found that a long extension with a swivel next to the socket is very helpful getting to stuff like that bolt... sometimes multiple swivels various places on the several extensions.
     
  7. sperold

    sperold Last to Know

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    On a nice, rust free car, it is a 2 hour job, and a big part of that is figuring out the battery tray.

    When I did mine, it took all day, as I did both adjusters and had to remove one adjuster to get it moving again.

    If you have trouble with the adjusters, here is my story on that topic:

    https://shoforum.com/index.php?posts/1426926/
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
  8. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Battery tray has no rust on it at all and it came off with no issues. Also once I loosened the locking nut on the tensioner I was able to take a drill with a flexible extension and spin the pulley up releasing the tension on it. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. The car really is in good shape for its age. I was surprised to see no rust on the battery tray. Usually those things are all rusted out by now.
     
  9. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Okay so new alternator is in and so far everything seems good! I got the Alternator from Advanced Auto. A re-manufactured one. Looked pretty good and it even had JAPAN letters on it cast into the metal. I am assuming this is an original one? Better than the cheap Duralast one I was offered at Auto Zone.
     
  10. rubydist

    rubydist Moderator Staff Member

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    They are all pretty much reman factory parts, but the issue seems to be the quality of the electronic components they put in the voltage regulator. The only ones I ever got to last were the NAPA lifetime warranty ones, hopefully your luck will be good with this one.
     
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  11. sperold

    sperold Last to Know

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    Keep your receipt and warranty information, a lot of re manufactured alternators have problems. Check your output and keep it on file for comparison in years to come. The common problems are voltage regulators and brushes, hardly ever bearings.

    A lot of people look for alternators with a lifetime warranty.

    My best results were from getting an original Ford alternator on this forum that was shipped to me by a member from California.

    The next best result is from taking the failed alternator to a shop specializing in this field and having them rebuild it.
     
  12. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    That's what I used to do. Then I had 2 units fail in short order. The Chinese replacement parts are really bad and no assembly skill can overcome that. Next time I'll be doing the NAPA thing
     
  13. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    NAPA couldn't get me an alternator. I tried them and they said it was unavailable.
     
  14. zoomlater

    zoomlater SHO Member

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    I have returned two MTX Napa alternators over the years (on two different cars). The last time (couple of years ago) they had to ship it cross country. This was for the lifetime alternator. They still had some one year warranty version as well.

    I had recently picked up a lifetime ATX alternator this year, so they still had those.

    Shosource sells rebuilt and new ones from Bosch, I thought those had a decent reputation

    http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=366

    http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=364
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
  15. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    We'll see how this one works for now. I really don't want to tear back into the motor unless it give me issues. I may just buy one of those alternators in case though.
     
  16. sperold

    sperold Last to Know

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    I have found that the 94 / 95 alternators to be more reliable and they put out more amps.
    It is more work and you have to find the mounting bracket that holds the AC compressor from a 94 / 95 while they are somewhat readily available, but it does have some reward.
    I am not recommending that you do this, but to me it makes more sense than stockpiling the little 90 amp alternator that you have now.
    Here is a write up on how to do it, and you can decide if you want to get the bracket for a rainy day project:

    https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...mtx-alternator-to-94-95-mtx-alternator.48847/
     
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  17. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Amazing how much info is in this one thread alone :thumb: :thumb:
     
  18. Bryan

    Bryan SHO Member

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    Eh I don't plan on it as I am now trying to sell the car because I need room for a new project I will be getting in the coming weeks.
     
  19. zak

    zak SHO Member

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    For this reason I started rebuilding my own, using Motorcraft regulators (which are integral with the brush holders). Change the pulley end bearing while you're in there (I usually change both). Can be done faster and cheaper than driving back and forth to the autoparts store, returning the core etc. Use some sockets to create as a stand and drive the bearing out.
     
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