All you need to know about catch cans.

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Performance Upgrades' started by Ryan Selcer, Jun 29, 2020.

  1. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    Hey guys i don't really see much info here so I figure let's get a good thread going for new members that aren't totally aware of CCs while i ask some questions i have.

    To start ill just do a quick CC run down. As your engine rotates it creates pressure in the crankcase behind the pistons from blow by and this pressure has to go somewhere, engine manufacturers decided the best way to deal with it was to let the pressure vent up through the heads and out the covers(original through crancase seals) In doing this they release gases and oil into the atmosphere, and mostly onto the highway. In order to combat this they decided to recirculate said air oil and gases back into the intake where they would be taken into the engine and burned off. However, this means everything between that recirculation line and your pistons is gonna slowly get coated with oil which will then bake on into carbon and cause you problems. Now over the life of a car most people won't have problems with this, however with high performance cars you tend to have more oil circulating and more buildup. The easy way to combat this is a catch can. It goes in line between your PCV where that pressure is released from the crank and wherever it goes back into the intake (usually after the throttle body). It has baffles in it to catch the fluids in the air and cause them to settle into the can, then the clean air is allowed to recirculate back into your intake and you drain the oil out of your CC every oil change or so depending on your car and the can you choose.

    Now, anyone that has any issues with what I said please say so and allow me to fix it so this info is all as accurate as possible.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
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  2. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    Now. Onto my questions. I have seen different designs of different cans and im willing to buy into the value of the UPR CC. I am just trying to decide if I should add the check valves, I honestly dont see the need for them, however I believe with higher HP application they may become necessary. Can anyone elaborate on this for me?
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
  3. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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  4. Frostbrosracing

    Frostbrosracing Member

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  5. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    See when I did a search i only saw 3 threads and all were less than 20 responses
     
  6. Frostbrosracing

    Frostbrosracing Member

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    There's 5 pages in that thread and you even posted in it.
     
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  7. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    Yeah i read through most of it and theres not a lot of relevant information tbh, i did see the RX cc and I believe that is a better system than the UPR however I dont see anyone in there really mention the UPR other than SM105K saying to just get it
     
  8. Frostbrosracing

    Frostbrosracing Member

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    There were some good bits of technical discussion sprinkled in with all the arguing. It was all very entertaining though.
     
  9. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    Yeah basically what I have in the OP was spread over like 30 or more comments
     
  10. FiveLeeter918

    FiveLeeter918 Ortiz Performance Sales Sponsoring Vendor Supporting Member

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    so my 2 cents on the catch can debacle, you get what you pay for. I personally am a huge fan of the UPR system. Dual valve, dual draw, check valves to prevent the Venturi effect under boost, the works. When installed correctly (and their instructions DO suck...) it's a flawless system.

    You get check valves either way, but the upgraded valves are billet to prevent gumming when using ethanol based fuels. If you ever plan to run E30/E85 on your car, I would strongly encourage you to get them.

    I've ran the JLT with a breather on previous cars, and it smells, it gets oil all over the valve cover, and it just plain doesn't work well. You catch some oil, but most users who pull their charge pipe still find puddling at the throttle body.

    Oil in your intake dilutes the fuel, cakes the valves, ruins OAR and can cause knock due to fuel degradation.
     
  11. bpd1151

    bpd1151 Lurking Around

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    @ Ryan.....

    I have no dog in this fight whatsoever as I relied heavily on suggestions to NOT run a CC (for many years) from a certain vendor with whom I have distanced myself far, far, far away from. Ironically, that same vendor then did a complete about face and strongly recommended the use of a CC, which many suspect was only done after they saw that huge profits could be had..... so umm yea.

    Anyhow, moving along. I did purchase the dual set up from UPR, with all the possible upgrades available, and plan on using it once my new build is completed and ready for install.

    But to date, I have no info, no personal experiences with any of the setups out there, and in turn, it would be woefully inappropriate for me to extend any suggestions on the subject matter.

    Hopefully others continue to chime in for you and give you guidance. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
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  12. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    Do you know anything about the RX can? I've recently found that one and its even more expensive than the UPR, however i like how it doesnt just cap off the forward bank it has another can to allow that to vent as well.

    http://teamrxp.com/products/ford-sho-2010-2015-rx-catch-can-kit
     
  13. SM105K

    SM105K Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @egocheckersho

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    I am a huge fan of the UPR system. It is nice, completely plug and play, and it flat out works. Yes it is an investment but that return on investment I think pays dividends.

    I have done about 10 oil changes in my SHO over the 25k miles I have owned it. This is what usually comes out my CC every oil change.

    20181104_075148.jpg
    20191005_110506.jpg
     
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  14. FiveLeeter918

    FiveLeeter918 Ortiz Performance Sales Sponsoring Vendor Supporting Member

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    I have not. the front isn't capped off on the UPR though, the oil cap becomes the secondary baffle.
     
  15. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    I see, I just mis interpreted the pictures on their site, there is a CSS insert that goes into the oil fill and they just don't have the lines connected and the CSS on in the pic[​IMG]
     
  16. FiveLeeter918

    FiveLeeter918 Ortiz Performance Sales Sponsoring Vendor Supporting Member

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    Correct. The top portion and lines are not installed there for some reason.
     
  17. FiveLeeter918

    FiveLeeter918 Ortiz Performance Sales Sponsoring Vendor Supporting Member

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    This is how it is on my personal SHO, albeit a few years ago but same kit.

    20170904_092630.jpg
     
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  18. Ryan Selcer

    Ryan Selcer SHO Member

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    So how does that clean side separator work? It looks like its not connected to the pcv in any way
     
  19. SM105K

    SM105K Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @egocheckersho

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    As discussed from the other thread.

    From UPR:

    The Clean Side Separator (CSS) needs to be installed, but first we must cap off the front PCV port. The CSS allows the engine to breathe through the oil fill neck, so the PCV port is not needed. Use the supplied capped fitting and connect it to the PCV port on the front valve cover.


    From Me:


    The CSS insert is just a big oil cap. It has mesh and filter media to keep the air from the crankcase clean (while acting like a crackcase vent) where it joins with the clean intake air their way to the CC. The oil caught in the CSS reforms and empties back into the engine, not needing another can because it has not been contaminated.
     
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  20. Ecoboost_xsport

    Ecoboost_xsport SHO Member

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    Hmmm, weird. I have the UPR catch can setup as well and I thought I bought it with all the bells and whistle, but mine connects differently, per their instructions. My clean side is identical (IM to drivers side port on CC), dirty side is identical (rear PCV to top of CC), but the WOT side is different. I had to tap port I had to make right after the air filter (I tapped underneath the tube of the AirAid filter) a connection they gave me that goes from there to the passenger side of the CC.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    But I still have the OEM front PCV line that goes to the connection new the front OEM BOV port as well as the OEM oil cap.

    [​IMG]
    Am I missing something? Do I not have the "dual valve" version?
     

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