92 SHO

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Laurel, Jul 19, 2019.

  1. Laurel

    Laurel New Member

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    Hey

    I just got my sho back and she is in rough shape :( Ex didn't take care of her. Couple of questions has anyone experienced a vibration in the front end while driving? Does anyone know how to make the dome light shut off i cant for the life of me get it to turn off. I pulled the fuse but it also controls the electronic door lock pad?
     
  2. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    Need way more information on the vibration like is it all the time. if you touch the brakes does it change, turning have any affect, things like that.

    If there is an on / off switch at the dome light, it is probably the switch at the light.

    Is it a sunroof car or a non- sunroof car? Take the bulb out until you find the issue.
     
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  3. zoomlater

    zoomlater SHO Member Supporting Member

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    Welcome! You may have already tried this, but is the rolling dimmer switch set back so it isn't always on. It rolls pass a certain point and clicks on. Its easy to hit it with your knee when you get in and out of the car and be in the always on position
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
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  4. Laurel

    Laurel New Member

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    lol yes im a girl but no its not the bulb or the dimmer switch. The vibration is 30 mph and up.
     
  5. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    The vibration sounds like a tire.

    Do you have a door ajar light?
     
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  6. Laurel

    Laurel New Member

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    Not tires it was balanced and aligned. And I don’t know lol I pulled the fuse cause the damn light would never shut off
     
  7. NoSlo

    NoSlo GoldMember

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    You should have the tires spin-balanced and inspected for unusual or end-of-life wear. Usually just $15 or less per wheel. Usually needed a few times in the life of a tire. And even rotated front-to-back (front wears faster). Ask for the shop to inspect tires for problems - fancy tire places have a roll-test machine.

    Since it is usually free to have them inspect (unless a Ford dealership and they charge $150 to not feel the issue on the replacement tranny), with the car jacked up or on a shop's lift, one can discover a wheel bearing issue by grabbing at the top and bottom of each tire, pulling in and out. Good wheel bearings have no movement at all. If it has a ticky feeling and the tire moves in and out by a fraction of an inch, it is likely play in a wheel bearing, symptoms of which can also increase at speed or when braking. Only the affected wheel needs a new bearing pressed into the knuckle, which can be done in-car with the right tooling.

    Then a full suspension inspection is warranted, to see if rubber bushings are shot, causing or amplifying the vibrations. Inner and outer tie rods tested, similar to checking the wheel bearings, but pulling tire side to side for steering play. And finally an alignment after worn parts that would make an alignment pointless are replaced.

    If inspected by a tire shop, ask to see the symptom yourself. Alignment/tire shops are as notorious as any other, have tried to sell new tie rods for alignment when I had just put them in needing the alignment. They'll try to charge $240 for something I can do on the street in 15 minutes. And they'll tell you to leave the car all day, or drop it off tomorrow so you are less likely to watch them work on it for mere minutes while billing hours. When a brake caliper locked up on me, and a place with the initials "Les Schwab" said "come back tomorrow with $250", went back and changed the $25 part and speed-bled in their parking lot in 30 minutes just so I could say "see ya never".

    PS On stock "slicer" wheels, take off the lug caps for the tire guys yourself gently, by prying with a long thin flathead screwdriver through the notch; don't pry just by the edge of the plastic cover which can break them, but lever out the cap by pressing the tip of the screwdriver into the center ring under the notch (93+ wheels don't even have a notch; pry on the same side as the valve stem; reinstall the 92's notch towards the valve stem).
     
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  8. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    Each door has a little plunger that the door depresses when it closes (plunger on the hinge side of the door, in the car body). Make sure they all still function, maybe pop them out to ensure the wiring is still attached and OK. It sounds like one of those plungers has failed, so put the bulb back in, open 1 door at a time, and work with the wiring and the switch. Snoop around on this forum and elsewhere to find out how to trouble-shoot this switch with a multimeter if necessary, but it probably only requires to jumper the 2 wires involved.

    There is a door ajar light on your dash, but that is controlled by your latch assembly inside the door (the part that hits the striker and holds the door shut). It requires some WD-40 every now and then to keep that light from coming on, but it sounds like yours is not coming on. So disregard generally.
     
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  9. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    How do you know it is not the dimmer switch? These are known to go bad from time to time.
    Also I would agree with trying the plunger door switches first.
     
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