802SHO Engine Build

802SHO

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I’ve made a little progress. Picked up the new trans and rdu out of the 2014 SHO with 61k.
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Now to remove my trans it went really well, first I had to remove front brakes, control arms, knuckles, axles, struts, strut tower brace and ptu.
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My ptu has been leaking passed the seal for a minute! Quite the mess to clean up afterward in the engine bay.
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I borrowed my friends cherry picker and snagged a pallet from O’Reillys, cut it down to a smaller size to put my trans on.
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It came out pretty easy, I left the top trans mount attached to the trans and used it to attach chains. Which btw my top trans mount is beat! As you can see compared to a new one….of course looking at the new one…hmmm maybe I should fill it all in?
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Once I got my transmission out I was able to just rest it on the pallet and slide it out of the way.
You must be registered for see images attach

So before I do anything else I figured I should clean it up a bit. I put some plastic down, went through almost a whole Purple Power spray bottle, then actually grabbed a little steamer I have and it came out pretty good. Before.
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After.
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Now I think would be a good time to install my hood vents. Slowly but surely picking away at it.
 
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DadMobile

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Anything that will brace the drivetrain will help imo. With all the weight and torque up front we definitely need to keep exploring bracing further.
 

DadMobile

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Everything is looking good! How do those LCA’s look while they are out. Snapped a bushing on mine the other day, doh!
 

802SHO

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Everything is looking good! How do those LCA’s look while they are out. Snapped a bushing on mine the other day, doh!
They were actually fine but I stripped one end last year on the driver side so I wasn’t sure I’d get it off the knuckle, since I had to remove the control arm from the subframe last time. So I just bought two new ones since I just got two new 13+ knuckles to fit the front Airtekk struts.
 

Autox4fun

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I’ve made a little progress. Picked up the new trans and rdu out of the 2014 SHO with 61k.
You must be registered for see images attach

Now to remove my trans it went really well, first I had to remove front brakes, control arms, knuckles, axles, struts, strut tower brace and ptu.
You must be registered for see images attach

My ptu has been leaking passed the seal for a minute! Quite the mess to clean up afterward in the engine bay.
You must be registered for see images attach

I borrowed my friends cherry picker and snagged a pallet from O’Reillys, cut it down to a smaller size to put my trans on.
You must be registered for see images attach

It came out pretty easy, I left the top trans mount attached to the trans and used it to attach chains. Which btw my top trans mount is beat! As you can see compared to a new one….of course looking at the new one…hmmm maybe I should fill it all in?
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

Once I got my transmission out I was able to just rest it on the pallet and slide it out of the way.
You must be registered for see images attach

So before I do anything else I figured I should clean it up a bit. I put some plastic down, went through almost a whole Purple Power spray bottle, then actually grabbed a little steamer I have and it came out pretty good. Before.
You must be registered for see images attach

After.
You must be registered for see images attach

Now I think would be a good time to install my hood vents. Slowly but surely picking away at it.
Andrew, I would do a bit more research on the transmission swap.... for some reason, the 10-12 trans is different than the 13+ in my system.
I sell used auto parts as a Team PRP member.. please verify the part numbers for year break down.

I also just bought two used trans... and had to stay with the 10-12 year range on my 2011...
Could just be a simple TC swap... or something greater like a valvebody swap..
 

802SHO

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Andrew, I would do a bit more research on the transmission swap.... for some reason, the 10-12 trans is different than the 13+ in my system.
I sell used auto parts as a Team PRP member.. please verify the part numbers for year break down.

I also just bought two used trans... and had to stay with the 10-12 year range on my 2011...
Could just be a simple TC swap... or something greater like a valvebody swap..
Yes the flywheel needs to be changed to accommodate the 3 bolt TC of the 13+ bc the 10-12 is a 4 bolt. My 2010 trans strategy is erased from cleaning it with purple power….how much of an issue will that be when I switch back to it if I open it and rebuild it?
 

Autox4fun

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Yes the flywheel needs to be changed to accommodate the 3 bolt TC of the 13+ bc the 10-12 is a 4 bolt. My 2010 trans strategy is erased from cleaning it with purple power….how much of an issue will that be when I switch back to it if I open it and rebuild it?
My Flex had a 3 bolt - clearly 4 bolts are stronger than 3, the strategy code is also on the valve body (internally).
 

802SHO

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At least on the SHO, the 4 bolt pattern, was switched to a three bolt pattern, mid 2011 model year.
Ok I thought maybe some 2011-12 might have a 3 bolt. I remember this came up when you bought a GH TC and had to change the flex plate/flywheel. You have upgraded flywheel also correct? I opted to just get an OEM 3 bolt flex plate from Tasca to use with my GH TC.
 

bpd1151

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Yes, I did upgrade to a custom flywheel. I can provide the contact info, if desired (which I think is still posted in my own build thread now that I think of it).

But yes, I learned about the bolt pattern differences when purchasing the GH TC a few years back.

I did ship back to Matt my OEM 3 bolt one, so he had / has a core, 3 bolter to use/upgrade/sell.

Only a handful of us that seem interested in pushing the extremes. So by shipping back the 3 bolt TC to him, hopefully that helps him, and those owners who need that pattern, without going full tilt like us weirdos. Haha
 
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