802SHO Engine Build

802SHO

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Sounds like you're doing a great job addressing the fueling! Now the ptu is the elephant in the drive train!
So far I haven’t had a PTU issue but since I’m starting with few things new and improved I bought a brand new PTU and had a custom brace made for it so it can’t flex. I’ll share the brace and manufacturer, I just need to verify the brace is not in the way of anything.
 

Bluezone

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Sorry to hijack the thread, but has anyone thought of using the automatic transmission cooling loop to feed trans fluid to the PTU and drain the PTU into the ******. This would cool the PTU and make sure that it is maintained at a decent fluid level.
Normally with manual gear sets you try to avoid using ATF because it doesn't get along well with the blocker rings on the synchros. There's no synchros in the PTU. Now with gear oil it's usually optimized for working with the shear forces of the angle cut gear set as well. But the automatic transmission doesn't use straight cut gears. So I would assume the ATF already is somewhat optimized for this anyhow. JordanR may have been on to something. Maybe I need to start a new thread?
 

DadMobile

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DadMobile

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Sorry to hijack the thread, but has anyone thought of using the automatic transmission cooling loop to feed trans fluid to the PTU and drain the PTU into the ******. This would cool the PTU and make sure that it is maintained at a decent fluid level.
Normally with manual gear sets you try to avoid using ATF because it doesn't get along well with the blocker rings on the synchros. There's no synchros in the PTU. Now with gear oil it's usually optimized for working with the shear forces of the angle cut gear set as well. But the automatic transmission doesn't use straight cut gears. So I would assume the ATF already is somewhat optimized for this anyhow. JordanR may have been on to something. Maybe I need to start a new thread?
The PTU creates a lot of metal shavings.
 

802SHO

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So the PTU cover was where a lot of drama occurred between AKD, John, Jordan and I. What I like about the cover is that it won’t flex, to go as far as adding external cooling could get pricey and doing regular fluid changes was already part of my routine maintenance, so for me the extra bracing was of interest. Which is why I worked with a company to get one made.

Now it seems that we’re all good with AKD but I already have a brace so that’s what I’m going to use. Since I haven’t had a PTU problem and my original unit with 76k is still good, it makes me curious how much of an improvement is needed besides preventing flex under extreme conditions. The PP PTU is already cooled. And changing the fluid is easy. There’s more options with the billet cover so for some maybe that’s what they’re after. And what degree of modification to your car even warrants an upgraded cover. Do you need to remove the ptu to change out the cover? The brace I have was made to be installed without removing the case or unit from the car.

I think there’s a little bit of rushing going on, the 525 Walbro, the Billet PTU Cover, the Billet Viscous Coupler and friction clutches are not tested…yet. Personally I have high hopes that these will be game changers but there’s no guarantee as of late.
 

802SHO

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Finally received the AirTekk struts for my air suspension setup. I got the AirLift management, compressor and tank about a month ago.

And it doesn’t fit 10-12 steering knuckles…….so I’ll be calling AirTekk so that they at least inform 10-12 model years that they will have to upgrade to 13+ steering knuckles. I’m not about to bother with removing any hub/bearing assemblies so looks like I might as well buy those too! $450 added to the list…

So what’s the difference between the actual steering knuckle and bearing/hub assembly from non pp to pp? I’m thinking absolutely nothing…..in regards to hub/bearings bolting in and my SEP caliper brackets for my Wilwood Calipers. What do you guys say?
 

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Ta2dResqr

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So what’s the difference between the actual steering knuckle and bearing/hub assembly from non pp to pp?
For a quick comparison, try looking at RockAuto. Moog has a lot of details on the info tab. For the hub, the hub pilot diameter seems to be the biggest difference (5mm). ****** shape is different also. Then there are a few other small (0.1mm) differences. They only list one knuckle so it can't really be compared between models (and it doesn't list specifics). I would say, as long as all of your parts match, it should be okay (either all PP or all non-PP).
 

FiveLeeter918

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Finally received the AirTekk struts for my air suspension setup. I got the AirLift management, compressor and tank about a month ago.

And it doesn’t fit 10-12 steering knuckles…….so I’ll be calling AirTekk so that they at least inform 10-12 model years that they will have to upgrade to 13+ steering knuckles. I’m not about to bother with removing any hub/bearing assemblies so looks like I might as well buy those too! $450 added to the list…

So what’s the difference between the actual steering knuckle and bearing/hub assembly from non pp to pp? I’m thinking absolutely nothing…..in regards to hub/bearings bolting in and my SEP caliper brackets for my Wilwood Calipers. What do you guys say?

I thought you had already upgraded to the 2013+ front suspension? The knuckles are completely different. The 10-12 has the slip fit struts that are held into the knuckle through compression and take 6 hours to change, where the 13+ is a bolt on strut that mounts to the knuckle and can be swapped in 20 minutes with air tools.

10-12:
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2013+:
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Much better options for 2013+ suspension as well and it really doesn't take much to transfer the components over.
 

FiveLeeter918

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I’m thinking absolutely nothing…..in regards to hub/bearings bolting in and my SEP caliper brackets for my Wilwood Calipers. What do you guys say?

The 10-18 all use the same bearing/hub assembly, so you should be fine to transfer over there. Brake geometry is likely different though as the caliper brackets are also different.
 

802SHO

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So what I still had was my 2010 knuckle, I considered swapping to 13+ but decided not to. And bc I have the Wilwood Calipers I was able to run a 13+ rotor without issue on the 10 knuckle. As far as I know the only difference between 13+ and 10-12 knuckles are the strut attachment…..and 13+ have larger brake calipers but the actual bolt location for the calipers are identical to 10-12….which I was able to run the caliper brackets for Wilwood.
 

Bluezone

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The 10-18 all use the same bearing/hub assembly, so you should be fine to transfer over there. Brake geometry is likely different though as the caliper brackets

The brackets are the same. That's why 2010-12 cars can do the 13 + big brake upgrade. Meaning the brackets for the upgraded will pull trade on the earlier hubs and Knuckles.
 
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SilvererSHO

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Doncha think FoMoCo and others would have figured out some of these finer details oooo....say 30-40 years ago by now? "Hey let's pinch that sumbichin' strut in the knuckle....yea, that's the ticket"! "No, no" says the next engineering department head (since the other guy got promoted to the vibrating seat division) "we need to attach them properly with two bolts". And then spend millions designing and re-working tooling. When was the first McPherson strut front wheel drive car built again??? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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