3.2l Swap Log

Discussion in 'Engine, Intake, Exhaust and Drive Line' started by vortex2450, Apr 3, 2011.

  1. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    Hey guys, cool news!

    I just got back from hauling a complete 3.2l freshly pulled from 94 ATX, I mean with EVERYTHING (tranny, subframe, steering racks, axles,spindles, brakes, alt, etc) still attached.

    This is a great pick up and I got an amazing price for it all so the drive ( 9 hours total) was absolutely worth it!

    I figured I'm killing two bird with one stone...

    - replacing the 3.0l currently in the MTX which is slowly dying

    - dropping in a fully maintained 3.2l ready to go, not only is this engine healthy but considering the mods already done on the car I bet I can get a little more power from them with a slightly larger displacement.



    I'm really excited about now I wanted to make a sort of "log" for anyone that wanted to follow me swapping this into the 92' MTX.


    Anyways, I just got home from the haul, I lowered the trailer on a jack stand, took off the ratchet straps and called it a day.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2011
  2. lowc

    lowc aka vapah lock

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    what mods are done to the 3.2?
     
  3. SVOFANATIC

    SVOFANATIC Active Member

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    Nice finally got that $150 setup home huh?
     
  4. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    From what I know the 3.2l is not modded but it has been 60k'd and judging by how well maintained everything else in the car looks I trust that statement 100%.

    The car has a SHOShop catless y-pipe and a custom manderl bent exhuast w/ dual summit racing "turbo" mufflers and a custom fender well CAI w/ a 93 Cobra MAF ( planning on an getting LPM once I get UDP's , PnP runners and BBBs)..

    The 5 speed is solid as can be as well as everything else so I'm really excited to ditch my deteriorating 3.0l and getting this bad boy in.

    Anyways, I'm scrambling to find an engine hoist , I may end up buying on because the only place I can rent from wants a staggering $40/day. :nut:


    I'm going to start pulling stuff off the chunk of car I have on the trailer while I'm waiting on an hoist..

    EDIT: Holy crap, I totally posted this in the wrong section, can a mod kindly move this to the engine/drivetrain section?

    PLease & thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2011
  5. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    And so the sega begins...

    (I'm still waiting to be moved to the right section)

    After some grunt manpower and about 20 minutes me, my dad, and brother managed to get the engine off the trailer and back on a dolley and into the garage...

    [​IMG]

    Although not from moving the engine I've hit my first bump in the road when I slammed my finger in the 4runners door yesterday :snicker:


    [​IMG]


    Really crappy timing and without serious (500mg+) pain killers this b*****d was throbbing enough to wake me up at 3 in the morning.. Going to have to push through not having full use of a digit....

    Once I get some grub I'm beginning the full on tear down..
     
  6. lowc

    lowc aka vapah lock

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    aint nothin a few percs an a beer wont fix
     
  7. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    i bought my 2 ton hoist from harbor freight for a measly 170. The boom is pretty long and gives you alot of room
     
  8. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    Yeah I was just about to run to harbor freight but I might have a line to use a huge tow-able hoist for this job, if not I'll be at harbor freight tonight/tomorrow morning..

    I would rather keep some cash in pocket though considering I just spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on this and that..


    This is my break but I'm making progress, got most of the wiring off and am down to the PS pump/ water pump
     
  9. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    Questions?

    Is it absolutely necessary to use the 3.0l timing belt/tensioner/pulley/covers on the 3.2l block?

    Same question for the water pump/assembly?

    The stuff on the 3.2l is in better shape than the parts from the 3.0l which is why I ask...

    (I really don't feel like screwing with the camshaft gears if I don't have to... )


    Also,assuming I have to pull the timing stuff off, how do I remove the crank pulley with the engine out of the car?

    I have a charged 12v batt, some large gauge wires and a relay for the wire, can I use this stuff to rig up the starter for a short zap or is there another way ??
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2011
  10. zach44102

    zach44102 BIG TURBO

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    If you use the 3.0 accesories you will have to have custom motor mounts.
     
  11. quikSHOilver

    quikSHOilver Yamahaized

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    I know that feeling! I get that pretty often by slamming against something hard...remedies You can relieve the pressure by drilling 1/16" bit thru nail, of course not drive it thru! just enough to penetrate the nail. :nut:
     
  12. lowc

    lowc aka vapah lock

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    if you use the 3.2 acc. you will need a custom mount!!

    and you need to change the timming components over to the 3.0 stuff including the rear timming plate(behind belt,an gears)
    also if you keep the 3.2 heads on it you will have tio cut a little out of the front head to make room for the 3.0 alt. here is a pic of the head after it was cut http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3891336/1995-ford-taurus-sho-sedan-4d/page-2

    its the pic on the bottom right
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2011
    vortex2450 likes this.
  13. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    Bob Gervais likes this.
  14. jayro

    jayro Well-Known Member

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    I would put the 2 engines on stands next to each other and start swapping accessories. Some things can be taken off as an assembly and moved to the other block.....you dont have to remove every single nut and bolt. Are you planning on using the 3.0 intake cams? You could either swap the cam into the 3.2 heads or swap the 3.0 heads on. (3.2 heads required a little cutting for the 3.0 alt as stated above). Have fun.
     
  15. vortex2450

    vortex2450 Buying Parts...

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    I love that idea but I just don't have the time for it right now.

    Plus I've already stripped that side of the block (except for the crank pulley and the couple things behind it).




    I would do the same but I don't have an engine stand, much less two.

    Thankfully the 3.2l is sitting connected to the tranny on the sub-frame since it was pulled as one chunk of machine.

    Speaking off, here are some pictures of the carnage I call a day's work :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This shot really shows how huge the ATX tranny is.. It basically eats the engine size wise...

    [​IMG]


    I had to waste some time eating, running errands but still got a good amount done, the crank bolt gave me no issues after I wiring up a battery to the starter :)

    However the pulley itself is being stubborn so I doused it in PB blaster and call it a night

    I was planning to finish stripping the block in the morning then pulling and moving the stuff off the 3.0l with it still in the car, that way when I pull the 3.0l it will be stripped...

    Then I will have to lift the 3.2l engine/tranny
    off the sub-frame to get access to the tranny bolts on the bottom and take them out with the easily accessible bolts still in, lower the tranny back unto a jack loosen the rest of the bolts and get the engine free, put the tranny back on it's sub-frame and wheel it away.

    Once I get the atx flywheel off all I have to do at that point is:

    -pull 3.0l w/ tranny
    -wrestle the mtx off with my friend
    -move the fly wheel/clutch assembly over
    -bolt up the tranny
    -lower the already completed 3.2l back into the car and put everything back together.

    How am I sounding?


    By the way, when I removed the timing belt the rear cam spun 1/4 turn counter-clockwise like it was held by a spring, is this going to give me issues when I go to reinstall the belt???
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2011
  16. SHOspazz92

    SHOspazz92 Banned

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    Tick....tock...:)

    -Sam
     
  17. jon93

    jon93 Active Member Staff Member Club Mod

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    Pull the spark plugs out and align your timing belt to factory spec.
     
  18. lowc

    lowc aka vapah lock

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    it will not give you any problems when you go to line everything back up. once you get everything inline it should not move on you. like said above pull the plug out of cylinder 1(would be back head plug to the left) and stick something into the plug hole (i used coat hanger) and rotate engine untill the object stops moveing up and starts to go back down. then you will be at TDC and the crank gear will lined up. then set cams and you will be good to go
     
  19. Bob Gervais

    Bob Gervais Wut?

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    Just to add to the "proper timing belt positioning" excitement....

    With the #1 cylinder at TDC as described above, you will also see that the crankshaft timing gear will have a dot on the face, that lines up with a raised line on the oil pump housing. This is a good double check to make sure you're in the right spot.

    Also, when you're facing the crankshaft side of the motor, the timing belt goes on with the lettering "backwards", or facing away from you. Use the 3.0l timing mark at the crank.
     
  20. Bob Gervais

    Bob Gervais Wut?

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    Nice work, and a great option to the crappy MTX mounts. My Kirk'd motor mounts are holding up just fine, even after 5 years, but I may try this out for purposes of less NVH. I think I'm getting old. :)
     

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