2018 Bypass Sony Amp

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - General Discusson' started by LinkyPwns, Sep 8, 2019.

  1. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    I have come to terms that my particular car is on the noisy side. I actually started with post factory amp signal into the high level inputs on the Helix DSP then progressed as you said. The DSR1 was much noisier then the PAC without TOS for me.
     
  2. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    Ok will do! Yes you got that right.

    I also got the 12" subwoofer working. I need to take a picture of it - it looks ghetto and I need to carpet the box and securely mount it like AmericanPride recommended.
     
  3. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    So I made an error in my wiring diagram. PAC had the connections backwards or I read the wrong side of the plug. Basically I had pin 1 at pin 8 and pin 9 at pin 16. I found out the hard way once I got everything soldered. I couldn't revert back because I destroyed 2 of the pin holders when I was extracting them. I ended up just cutting into the factory harness and running extension wires to the 4 channel amp. Frustrated but at least I could still move forward.

    Made a mounting adapter plate for the 4 channel amp out of 1/4" plastic. It is pretty tough and think it will do good.
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    Model number of the sony amp
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    Different angles of amp attached to mounting bracket
    IMG_1712.JPG IMG_1713.JPG

    In the end I was only able to use the two screws on the rear most side of the car. I wedged a "pad" underneath the amp to help support. It seems to be tight enough. I tried getting a screw coupling installed on a 3rd post but I couldn't get it to bind together and it was a pain in the ass to reach.

    Here is the amp mounted. FYI - I found a factory ground screw just below my amplifier - pretty convenient.
    IMG_1737.JPG

    Here is the engine compartment with the two fuses. I plan to add another 4awg wire off the negative terminal of the battery.
    IMG_1739.JPG
     
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  4. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    I keep getting a crap-ton of corrison on my positive battery terminal - even before I installed the car audio power wires. Not sure what is causing it. When the car is running idle I took a volt meter and read 14.5 volts.
     
  5. Johnbigdog

    Johnbigdog SHO Member

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    There is a seal around the lead posts that can leak acid. This may not be liquid, but could be vapor.

    You could try those red and black fold donut battery saver things soaked in baking soda water, or new battery and clean the terminal well.

    Baking soda and water to clean the terminal. I have also found foamy engine bright works really well for cleaning battery acid up.
     
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  6. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    This is common on alot of batteries I've seen over the last several years. Johnbigdog is correct above. You will be chasing this over time, so get a few small wire brushes and maybe some of that terminal spray in addition to the felt things. Just keep an eye on it and don't let it get too far out of hand so the wiring terminals don't corrode too much. If it gets really built up it will effect the ability to conduct electricity.
     
  7. GHNorth

    GHNorth SHO Member

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    My positive terminal was covered with corrosion when I bought it in 2015. Cleaned it all up with baking soda, sprayed liberally with NAPA terminal protection, and installed the felt pads. It came back in just a few weeks. I replaced the failing battery with a Diehard AGM battery and have not had this issue since. I will never install a lead-acid battery if an AGM equivalent is available. (None for my '82 Mustang.)
     
  8. Pinball-Mark

    Pinball-Mark New Member

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    So you have your aftermarket amp running your doors. And you have the factory amp running the rear doors. Just curious if you are able to listen through the fronts and rears at the same time, and how does it sound? Curious if there is a delay or anything.
     
  9. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    Thanks guys for the battery tips. I'll see if I can get a new one under warranty and if not, then clean it again. I did not try any preventive maintenance last time - just an old toothbrush and baking soda water. Maybe I should invest in one of those fancy battery terminal brushes too.
     
  10. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    Yes I can choose either - the fade works as expected. The only thing is I lose the subwoofer signal when I fade to the rear. That is due to me using the TOSLINK instead of the RCAs from the PAC.

    I keep everything in the front right now though. Once you are used to the rear being gone, it is almost annoying having it back. I am working on getting the delays set in the 360 DSP. I don't know if there was any factory time delay in the SONY DSP. My guess is no delay.
     
  11. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    I still have the rear doors still hooked up to the factory amp and PAC with optical feeding a DSP for front stage and subs. I normally have the rears off unless on longer trips with rear passengers but no issues doing so.
     
  12. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    So I thought I'd show you the subwoofer and amp. This is from my last car audio system. The sub box is functional but not aesthetically pleasing by any means. It has velcro "hooks" across the entire bottom of the box to help grip a little bit with the trunk carpet. The "wing" on the right hand side also helps hold it down for now based on the trunk shape. I need to secure it better.
    IMG_1742.JPG

    The amp fitted perfectly on the rear seat and will fold down with the seat. The sub is easily removed so I can still have a huge trunk if needed.
    IMG_1743.JPG
     
  13. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    So when I was setting my amp gains and also when I was playing pink noise, I noticed that the tweeters were dropping off at around 10 - 12 Khz all the way to 20 Khz. I called PAC for help. They asked what my source was from and I said Apple Carplay hookup to audiotools pink noise generator. He said that the Apple Carplay can sometimes compress the audio signals to support bandwidth for other reasons. I retested using the CD player and flash drive and noticed that the tweeters came back! I'm using an iPhone6+ @ IOS 12.4. I would have never thought that would be an issue!
     
  14. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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  15. AmericanPride

    AmericanPride Member

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    You would be surprised. There's a reason when customers come into the shop with any issues the first question we ask is "(Cr)apple or Android?"
     
  16. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    I got the woofers installed this weekend. It took a while but overall the sound has dramatically improved. I can't wait to get the tweeters done now!

    Removed the door panel and wiped everything down with alcohol.
    IMG_1746.JPG

    Noticed some stiffener bars running across the door frame. I wasn't expecting this but worked around it.
    IMG_1747.JPG IMG_1748.JPG

    Decided to leave this little bit of vapor seal near the speaker on.
    IMG_1751.JPG

    I bought some stinger roadkill rings. I had to cut the back foam piece go to around that stiffener bar. Used the big outer ring and attached it to the door panel.
    IMG_1753.JPG IMG_1759.JPG IMG_1760.JPG IMG_1761.JPG IMG_1754.JPG

    The factory speaker holder had some sort of gasketing material between the plastic and sheet metal. It was not going to budge and thought I'd leave it alone.
    IMG_1750.JPG


    Used Noico deadener. I about bought dynamat but I could more than double the quantity with this brand and it still has good reviews. Made sure to use one big piece across the door opening.
    IMG_1755.JPG


    Rest of the door "deadened."
    IMG_1756.JPG

    I forgot to take pictures of the actual speaker in there but it didn't really look any different.
     

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  17. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    Good work. Next time save some money on buying the fast rings and just get some closed cell foam from the hardware store. Cheaper and works better than the open cell foam.
     
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  18. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    I also wanted to mention that I do not have any of the load resistors from the pac harness connected to the factory amp. It doesn’t not go into a protect mode. That made things simpler.

    I noticed that the PAC ap4-fd21 does not create the “beep” with the touch panel (like ac controls, seek/next track, etc). It does beep when the touchscreen is pressed though. Not a big deal but worth mentioning


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    Same here with mine for both.
     
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  20. LinkyPwns

    LinkyPwns New Member

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    So I finally got around to installing the tweeters. I had a hard time getting the first A pillar off but the second one went real quick once I knew what I was doing.

    After you pop the first “phase” off that retainer clip in the front comes off nicely with some bent needle nose pliers. Pinch as close to the “hole” as possible. I was trying to pinch near the trim and couldn’t figure it out for a while. Make sure to disconnect the tweeter before you yank too hard.

    Noticed that my metra adapter wasn’t going to work. It is keyed differently. Guess I’ll cut the tweeter off the original plug.
    [​IMG]

    Original tweeter. The foam around the edge impressed me.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Got the old tweeter out and hot glued the new JL tweeter in its place. I used the included surface mount bracket and it lined up decently with the original tweeter holding bracket.
    [​IMG]

    Zip tied some speaker gasket around the ring holder. Trying to keep sound from “escaping.”
    [​IMG]

    Connected to the factory plug. Used the included JL crimps.
    [​IMG]

    Finished product
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

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