Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Performance Upgrades' started by Ecostang, Feb 1, 2016.
.... Ha :/
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I see literally hundreds of these engines fully assembled every day but I never see any of the connections they are hooked up to in the vehicle. I’m having my own process of discovery installing in the Gearhead intercooler, spending literally hours tracing the hook ups and understanding their functions to the motor.
I just did 2.of these. Last was a 14 motor in a 10. Heres what I found. The cam.sensor connectors are different. I swapped them from old to new eng. The tone ring on 1 of the new engines was different than the 10 . This Is the ring under the flex plate that triggers crank sensor. So I took the old crank sensor and ring and mounted to new engine. The new engine had an electrical connector on the PVC valve mounted on rear Valve cover. The 10 wiring harness didnt have this so unused my old PVC valve. You could probably use the es design and cap the plug. That was it, they both run great. I also installed new turbos, the rear is a real bitch to work on in the car and a new one is $420. I would also change ptu fluid while out. Much easier.
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Wonder if the pcv valve is heated on the 14, or there is some other function for the connection.
I think the 2010's were/are the only one's that have this Manu.
There was a design change from what I recall in 2011.
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He is saying the 2014 has an electrical connector ...
I hope this doesn't sound stupid or something but did you have to swap the heads from the older engine to the newer one?
Im not sure if I missed that part or not but I'm about to start the same project in a few days.
Does anyone that has completed this swap have any advice or suggestions that might help?
Thanks in advance for your time and help..
Heads don't need to be changed. Only thing that isn't compatible is the plastic valve covers from the later engines don't work on the early heads because they lack one of the bosses for the extra screw on the top of the front head. I think the rear head is identical. This won't be an issue for you because you're going from an early engine to a later one (correct?), and the aluminum valve covers from your current engine will work on the newer heads. Read my post from April 8, 2017. Should have most of the info you need there. If not, everything else is in this thread somewhere.
Yes I'm looking to replace the engine in my 2010 with a newer engine from a 2013-2015 or possibly newer if it will work.
I am looking at a 2015 explorer EcoBoost engine with very very low mileage and it's under $1,300.
I have low compression in 1 cylinder at like 80psi wet or dry.
All the others are perfect.
Thanks for your help and advice I will certainly check out your post on the subject..
If you can think of something that might help me get it done smoothly I would appreciate it truly.
I am gonna do the work in my garage with no lift.
I have already pulled the engine out previously so I am very comfortable with it..
No head swap, just the sensors on the head (different plugs), the crank trigger wheel (tone ring) and crank sensor.
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Will any 2013-2015 3.5l EcoBoost engine fit in my 2010 SHO
Ive been reading that they might have 2 different types of cam gears or something.
I might not be saying it right or something but ive been reading about some having a different heads,cam's or something.
Im wanting to just switch the sensors and go.
I can't verify solid answer but I can't afford to get stuck with one i can't use.
My only source of income is Disability at this time due a work related accident so money is very very tight.
Thanks in advance
Any transverse engine, yes. Not an F150 or Expedition engine, but Explorer, Flex, Taurus, MKT, these should work fine, there will be minor differences if you go non-Taurus, in addition to the ones already noted, possibly due to police vs non-police service but not sure.
Thanks for evereveryone's help. .
I truly appreciate it.
I can finally feel confident about moving forward with repairs to my SHO it's been almost 1 year without it.
I was dreading the fact of putting a used 2010-2012 with tons of mileage and a unknown history of maintaince.
The newer Engines are significantly cheaper with way less mileage..
I will update when this is done and might actually take a video of the entire process from start to finish..
The jury is still out on how well the redesigned timing chains hold up compared to those for the single sprocket. Personally I do not think there is a gain of magical immunity from failure. The literature of course goes ga ga when theoretically performance achievements are made Resist temptation to overextend oil change and coolant change intervals - this will be your best ally in the future.
Thanks for all the help.
Thank you everyone for the hope!! My 2010 will be running real soon thanks to you guys!!
If you want your timing chain components to last, change your oil frequently. At least every 5k using synthetic oil and a MC oil filter.
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