VladM

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Hello there,

I just bought this SHO described by the seller - compression issues. So I thought a headgasket, the chain skipped a bit, hopefully not the block. It came with carfax - regular maintenance at the local dealership. The body isn't perfect but pretty good.

Few hours later it was sitting in my garage.

I dropped the wheel eager to turn the engine by hand. No chance. Neither way. So I went to dealership and asked for last two service records. The 2nd last says about a low coolant, they topped it up and sent the car away. 300km and 1 few months later the car was towed in and they found the car was stalling , low on coolant, they drained an oil with coolant from the engine . They tried to turn the engine over by hand - game over.

I bought it approximately a year and a half after this happened. What did I do?:
 

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VladM

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I poured some different treatment fluids like seafoam , mmo, and others into each cylinder and I let it sit for a day. I tried to move it over, no chance. In the meantime I started to remove all that stuff around the engine to get to timing chain cover to see inside if there's a problem.

The next day I was gonna to loosen the crank pulley bolt and voila - the engine moved over ! So i tried the opposite way and it kept moving over.

I got around 70 ft lbs of torque on that bolt to be able to move the crank over.

I poured another stuff into the cylinders because all were dry. This time a mix of Xylene and ATF.

The next day I found that the cylinders were not dry anymore and I needed like 55 ft lbs of torque to move it over.

I removed the oil filter , opened it and inspected it . I also found the problem with the water pump, the wheel goes each way when you push on it so it's clearly done and one tensioner (right hand side) on that small chain is broken..

Next I want to boroscope each cylinder and perform a leak down test.
 

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yaycandy

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Pull the engine. Tear down and inspect. Get cylinders honed. Install new rings and bearings. Stress check rods. Hopefully pistons and rods are good. Measure wristpins and compare to stock spec, they are usually fine. Check heads for any warping. Alittle warp can be fixed and also raise compression when fixing. Valve train is in spec still i bet. Install new pumps and other replaceables. So when the engine is reinstalled it will run fine for 10+ years.

Dont do the cheap stupid way another member is who cant read mics.
 

M.J

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Honestly I'd buy a used engine and slap it in. I can already see you going down the rabbit hole as far as cost and time to fix it. If you really want to go the extra mile replace the timing chains & water pump on the used engine while it's out of the car and then slap it in.
 

yaycandy

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Honestly I'd buy a used engine and slap it in. I can already see you going down the rabbit hole as far as cost and time to fix it. If you really want to go the extra mile replace the timing chains & water pump on the used engine while it's out of the car and then slap it in.

Thats a better idea, 3.5l ecoboost has some tight tolerance and isnt an engine to rebuild if your inexperienced. Would be cheaper in the long run to get a used engine. Even a Ford reman longblock would cost more but be even better down the road
 

VladM

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Thanks guys. I appreciate every post. I did a leak down test today.

2 cylinders leaking on intake side but the rest of it goes down the rabbit hole...to crankcase. The best value was 40% or so. The 1st cylinder was almost 100%.... When I poured some oil into cylinders it jumped up to like 5%. So it's the rings. I am pulling the engine out.

I am almost ready but - how should I disconnect a connector from the transmission? I have to put the wiring harness aside, it's in my way. I googled for more than two hours and I couldn't find any info. It is a black and white in color rectangle and it has a grey lever on top.
 

802SHO

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Thanks guys. I appreciate every post. I did a leak down test today.

2 cylinders leaking on intake side but the rest of it goes down the rabbit hole...to crankcase. The best value was 40% or so. The 1st cylinder was almost 100%.... When I poured some oil into cylinders it jumped up to like 5%. So it's the rings. I am pulling the engine out.

I am almost ready but - how should I disconnect a connector from the transmission? I have to put the wiring harness aside, it's in my way. I googled for more than two hours and I couldn't find any info. It is a black and white in color rectangle and it has a grey lever on top.
It clips on and off. Gently pry it straight up.
 

VladM

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It clips on and off. Gently pry it straight up.
My gentle tries usually end up in braking something. I might just have big hands, idk... I just thought if there is some locking mechanism I have to unlock somehow first. Like with any other connector.
 

VladM

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Update: I got it. There is a tab under that grey lever you have to push on.
 

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VladM

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Nice. I was thinking it was something else you were trying to take off. Like the shift cable connected to the lever on top of the trans.
No, not that one. The clip which holds that cable on transmission got me thinking and trying hard for like 15 minutes but I denied to go online to find out how to undo it
 

VladM

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Right now is also a really good time to flush out the PTU and do the typical mods.
Well, I wish. I've never done anything like this before. Maybe if you drop a link for me where I can learn something about it... But for now I have to decide if I save the engine or a swap would be less painful.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

yaycandy

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Cheaper and easier to get a reman longblock or a used engine. I would use that engine you pulled out as a learner while you put another engine in. Gets you back driving it sooner. It su cks to not drive a car for a year or more. Mine was sitting for a year and a half, i also have my heart and soul(miata) sitting tore apart in my garage for 3 years. It hurts, best thing is to get back driving it the asap way lol
 

luigisho

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Totally agree with serviceing the ptu fluid while everything is torn apart. I can't think of an easier way to acces it now that the engine is pulled out. Here is a vid from a member that describes it very well. Should have the video stickied in that section for people to find it easier.
Failure of this unit is not uncommon and cost is not cheap so prevention is the best course. The heat from the exhaust cooks this stuff over time. There is not adequate cooling and the volume of fluid in that unit is quite small. Ford labeled this stuff lifetime fluid. That is bs. The police and performace pack subunits had an extra cooler and drain plug to change this fluid. Failures of this unit are all over the interwebs
 

VladM

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Well, I think the world is upside-down
 

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