2010 brake upgrade to 2013

Guzzisvt

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
KC.MO
I have a 2010 Taurus show with PP. The brakes have never been very good even when I switch to wilwoods on the front but I think the main problem is the master cylinder. I'm going to replace it with the 2013 master cylinder and vacuum booster. I checked into this a while back and also purchase the brake line required for this upgrade. Has anybody done this upgrade? Anything I should know before heading in to it?
 

Airborne

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
351
Reaction score
247
Location
Arizona
Yes, i have done it a couple of times. The master cylinder has a different size piston and bore from MY 2010 to MY 2013, this is due to the rear caliper piston bore is different between MY's. If you want the pedal to feel correct you should replace the rear calipers and matched vented rear discs from a 2013 MY. The front calipers from MY 2010 to 2013 are the same piston bore and I assume your Wilwoods are the same piston bore.
 
Last edited:

SHOinVa

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
427
Location
Tidewater Va
I just came across this thread and I have a question, maybe you guys can help me out. I have a 2012 and I'm about to replace the brakes with 2013+ calipers/rotors, I assume its worth the money and will make a difference. After reading your post I was wondering if I should also replace the master cylinder and booster, and is it a direct fit bolt on or there modification required. Thanks in advance for your help, have a great day everyone.
Charlie
 

351Blueblood

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2018
Messages
41
Reaction score
21
I can't say how it would feel with new master and booster but my upgraded +13 brakes feel good.
 

SHOinVa

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
427
Location
Tidewater Va
I checked into this a while back and also purchase the brake line required
Yes, i have done it a couple of times. The master cylinder has a different size piston and bore from MY 2010 to MY 2013, this is due to the rear caliper piston bore is different between MY's.
Greetings, - I could use some help, I was rereading this post and I may be missing something.
I've ordered 2013+ master cylinder, booster, calipers, and rotors but I just saw where I need a brake line, can anyone tell me which brake line I need for the upgrade.

- I have tried searching and I will continue to do so, but if someone could help me out with the information, it would be most appreciated.

I'm also going to replace the bearing while its torn down, (any thoughts)

As always Thanks, for any help.
Charlie
 

aaron240

SHO Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2019
Messages
242
Reaction score
402
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
I have low mileage OEM Motorcraft 2013+ PP front brake calipers, associated mounting brackets and hoses for sale if you are contemplating doing the 2010 to 2013 factory brake swap.
 

SHOinVa

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
427
Location
Tidewater Va
I have low mileage OEM Motorcraft 2013+ PP front brake calipers, associated mounting brackets and hoses for sale if you are contemplating doing the 2010 to 2013 factory brake swap.
LOL I should have posted this sooner, I just purchased most of what I need from Rock Auto, and I think that includes all the brackets. If I'm reading this thread right, it seems I need a different brake line to swap out the master cylinder.
C/

BUT Thanks for the offer.
 

Airborne

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
351
Reaction score
247
Location
Arizona
If i remember correctly i did not replace any brake lines, i bent the one at the master cylinder
 

SHOinVa

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
427
Location
Tidewater Va
If i remember correctly i did not replace any brake lines, i bent the one at the master cylinder
Thanks for the information, I'm sure my shop will figure it out but its always better to have the solutions when they have problems. The first post mentioned a required brake line, so I wanted to have it in hand if it was needed. Anyway thanks again.
C/
 

DouglasB_SHO

SHO Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2016
Messages
101
Reaction score
52
Location
Arlington, Virginia
I have low mileage OEM Motorcraft 2013+ PP front brake calipers, associated mounting brackets and hoses for sale if you are contemplating doing the 2010 to 2013 factory brake swap.
What are you asking for the 2013+ PP calibers and mounts? I'm looking at upgrading the brakes on my 2011 non-PP. I'm in Arlington VA for shipping cost estimate. Message me if you don't want to post the price openly.
 

Guzzisvt

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
KC.MO
This is why I started this post. I already have wilwoods on the front but was looking to upgrade more because the pedal is very soft. Maybe the master cylinder is bad I don't know. But I bought these parts about 5 years ago and am getting ready to have a mechanic install them. So I wanted to make sure I had all the correct parts and knew of any problems putting them on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211027_143543335_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20211027_143543335_HDR.jpg
    315.6 KB · Views: 7

SHOinVa

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
427
Location
Tidewater Va
I'm not sure why but this upgrade has me nervous.

Anyway I hope Airborne is right and you can just bend the brake line, because right now no one has them in stock, and she's do in the shop next week.
i bent the one at the master cylinder
OH Well it will get worked out one way or another, thanks for the help everyone.
C/
 

Guzzisvt

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
KC.MO
I'll be taking mine into my mechanic shop on the 8th of november. I'll let you know how it works out
 

Guzzisvt

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
KC.MO
The piston's diameter is the same, do you mean brake rotor diameter?
I took mine to the shop Monday to have the brake booster / master cylinder and appropriate brake line installed. They installed the booster and master cylinder but the brake line shank was too short it wouldn't seat the flared. They went ahead and bent the existing pipe into submission. Unfortunately it didn't solve my soft brake problem. Mechanic suggested I try different pad material on the wellwoods. I'm going to buy some EBC yellow stuff for the front and rear. The wellwoods are so hard they weren't wearing but we're wearing down the wilwood rotor. More information to follow
 
Top