1st gen AC pressure switch pigtail

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Engine, Exhaust, Drive Line & AC syste' started by Rennfab, May 14, 2020.

  1. Rennfab

    Rennfab New Member

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    Hi guys, been very busy here but getting back to my Shogun restoration slowly. Finishing up the rewire of the chassis and need to remedy an issue they did. The car has A/C on it, and I am assuming that it is the system from the Taurus SHO. They originally wired the AC system in the car and bypassed the pressure switch up by the condenser. Personally to me this is stupid as if there is a leak, it will continue to run the compressor to failure. A/C is a must-have in this car with the SHO engine sitting inches behind me inside the car. The issue is they cut the damn male connector out of the harness.

    So, does anyone either A) have a junk harness they can lop off the plug and like 6-8" pigtail and sell it to me, or B) know of a place and part number where I can buy a replacement plug and pigtail from online? I am very much trying to avoid having to drain the system to swap out to a different sensor. That would be a last resort type remedy in this case.

    The sensor in question has an oval shaped female port with four pins arranged in a 360 Top/Bot/Left/Right configuration.

    Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

    -Adam
     
  2. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member Super Moderators

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    If you need to change to a different sensor you don't need to drain the system. Just remove the old one and do what you need to do.

    That being said, there is a guy named Benjamin Kadic in the FB groups that will have the pigtail you need. He's got a trunk load of old harnesses.
     
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  3. Rennfab

    Rennfab New Member

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    I don't quite see how removing the sensor won't vent off refrigerant? I am befuddled lol!

    Appreciate the heads up on this member. I just facetoob searched his name and its the only one that popped up so I'm going to shoot him a quick message. Thanks for the info!

    -Adam
     
  4. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member Super Moderators

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    The switch threads on to a schrader valve. Remove the switch and the valve closes.

    20200514_194444.jpg
     
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  5. Rennfab

    Rennfab New Member

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    weeellllll, now the plot thickens as that's is definitely not what I have on my car here. Oh boy

    Here is what I have switch.jpg
     
  6. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Master Staff Member Super Moderators

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    That is the high pressure side. It looks like someone possibly converted it to R134a and added the high pressure switch that is supposed to be on all R134a systems but almost never added when R12 systems are converted.

    Regardless, that switch should be screwed into a fitting that also has a schrader valve.

    And, you can run the system without a high pressure cutout switch just like all the other people who converted R12 systems without adding the high pressure switch.
     
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  7. Jbeck

    Jbeck I have NO IDEA what I'm doing!! Supporting Member

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    If you run the system without high pressure switch, the risk is a blow out if pressures get too high... there should be a high pressure blow off on the liquid line manifold just for that purpose.. it will blow off excess pressure and refrigerant until the valve can re-seat and then you are left with a still functioning system but low on charge until the problem that caused the high pressure can be fixed (usually a failed cooling fan) and system can be recharged again....if your system has none of those items then a blowout would consist of a component failure usually being a blown set of o-rings or a condenser.
     
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  8. BaySHO Performance

    BaySHO Performance SHO Member

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    Rennfab and Jbeck like this.
  9. Jbeck

    Jbeck I have NO IDEA what I'm doing!! Supporting Member

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    I have heard of people making obsolete connectors, I have never tried this myself but if you cant find a connector you could always try....

    wire up switch with crimp on spade connectors, verify operation is correct
    use a small brush and coat the inside of female side with petroleum jelly or releasing agent and then with wires attached pour in epoxy and let cure...the release agent should allow the new epoxy plug to be removed and you have a new connector...the spade connectors will be embeded in the cured epoxy and will hold connection firm when plugged in.

    ***I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS METHOD SO TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK***
     
  10. Rennfab

    Rennfab New Member

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    Yeah that is the conclusion I have come to as well now. There is a tag on it, but unfortunately the info on it has faded into oblivion.

    Thanks for the link. i'll take a look there and see if anything looks like it fits. who knows, this sensor might not even be Ford related on this car.
     

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