Transmission Fluid Leak - Need Help Identifying Part in Photo

Dear ShoForum members. I need help identifying transmission line part in photo. The square box where one line goes in and two go out. Thanks, Edward

If you are looking for a replacement, try contacting either

SV&HOdan

Shosource - Ryan or Mike, they usually have access to west coast cars (little to no rust)

I would go to the parts counter at a nearby ford dealer and get the actual part numbers and search if you want brand new. There may be some floating in the system. If you want used then there are parts cars all over the interwebs.

I had a similar issue and found the atx cooling line to be the source of the problem. The rust on the the steel cooling lines were the same as my SHO. I ended up removing the lines and replacing with new ones that needed to be made up. Never found a source for new direct replacements.

Hey Mike, thanks for your

Hey Mike, thanks for your feedback. That's the plan. Gonna fabricate all new lines. What is that square box for anyway where the transmision fluid lines split from one into 2 to the radiator? Is it a splitter or thermostat? Thanks, Edward

iirc, it is a thermostat, so the trans oil does not get circulated to the cooler until it is warm enough to need that.

Ed
On one of the connections there is a ball with a spring behind it so becareful not to loose the parts when your upside down, turning wrenches with atx fluid leaking out.

Thanks for all your support. Problem fixed. All is good.

Can anyone steer me in the right direction of what's involved with replacing/reparing a door lock actuator? My key fob will pop open all door locks, but the driver side. I can hear it working and see the lock trying to pop up, but it doesn't pop the lock all the way up to unlock the door.

That’s some serious cancerous metal under that car there.

Only in certain spots. Nothing that can't be fixed when necessary. Overall, the car is in good condition considering its age and location as a daily northeast driver.

Edward Birdsall said:

Dear ShoForum members. I need help identifying transmission line part in photo. The square box where one line goes in and two go out. Thanks, Edward

Click to expand...

Holy crow that is a lot of rust. I would have just gotten an original set of lines from a wrecking yard or parts jobber. Did you end up having them fabricated, and who/how?

The line on the right is a little loop that goes to the bottom radiator ATX cooler, the left two go to rubber hoses on the other side. When any of these fittings are re-connected, you need to dry them and use Permatex high-temperature thread sealant, which meets the Ford specification.

Mine 10 minutes ago. Glad I live where I do, and that leaking fluids have kept these goopy:

Edward Birdsall said:

Can anyone steer me in the right direction of what's involved with replacing/reparing a door lock actuator? My key fob will pop open all door locks, but the driver side. I can hear it working and see the lock trying to pop up, but it doesn't pop the lock all the way up to unlock the door.

Click to expand...

Unscrew and remove the manual button screw-on cap, to see if it is rubbing on a misaligned door panel. Verify with door panel removed it still doesn't work well. I would then check all the linkage bushings to see if they are worn, and regrease them. If it was a back right lock, I might blame the motor or linkage from dis-use or rust, but here it's probably something preventing the good motor from doing its job.

Door Lock Actuator Motor, Power Locks
- Required - Heavy Duty Riveter D80L-23200-A

Removal:
1. Remove door trim panel and water shields (the plastic wrap),
2. 1/4 drill bit - remove the pop rivet attaching the actuator, disconnect wiring,
3. Disconnect the linkage and remove the motor.

Installation:
1. Connect linkage
2. Connect wiring
3. Use riveter to install actuator to door with pop-rivet - Caution, rivet must be installed with bracket base tight to the inner panel
4. Put door back together.

Ford instructions are terse, for the experienced mechanic.

Illustration of FR door, callout #8 is the actuator.

NoSlo said:

Glad I live where I do, and that leaking fluids have kept these goopy:

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By design, not a bug. LOL

NoSlo said:

Holy crow that is a lot of rust. I would have just gotten an original set of lines from a wrecking yard or parts jobber. Did you end up having them fabricated, and who/how?

The line on the right is a little loop that goes to the bottom radiator ATX cooler, the left two go to rubber hoses on the other side. When any of these fittings are re-connected, you need to dry them and use Permatex high-temperature thread sealant, which meets the Ford specification.

Mine 10 minutes ago. Glad I live where I do, and that leaking fluids have kept these goopy:

Click to expand...

Is your tranny still original? I remember when you had over 200K on it and that was awhile ago.

zoomlater said:

Is your tranny still original? I remember when you had over 200K on it and that was awhile ago.

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Yep, add another 100k to that. Regular "flushes" using the procedure where you disconnect the hose after dropping the pan and dump another several quarts of cheap stuff to flush the torque converter. Then new filter and wipe the pan. I've got two filter and gasket kits in my basement, but it's still clear blood red fluid after 60k+ miles since the last one. I also got the car with a bigger tranny cooler, so that might make a difference.

NoSlo said:

Yep, add another 100k to that. Regular "flushes" using the procedure where you disconnect the hose after dropping the pan and dump another several quarts of cheap stuff to flush the torque converter. Then new filter and wipe the pan. I've got two filter and gasket kits in my basement, but it's still clear blood red fluid after 60k+ miles since the last one. I also got the car with a bigger tranny cooler, so that might make a difference.

Click to expand...

This must be a record for a SHO auto tranny, your car is a 93 correct? My daily 94 ATX (late 93 build) is on its second tranny rebuild (done a year ago). Mileage is at 140K and from what I gather from the 2nd shop, some of the parts used during the first rebuild were not correct or not the latests parts that should have been used.

zoomlater said:

This must be a record for a SHO auto tranny, your car is a 93 correct? My daily 94 ATX (late 93 build) is on its second tranny rebuild (done a year ago). Mileage is at 140K and from what I gather from the 2nd shop, some of the parts used during the first rebuild were not correct or not the latests parts that should have been used.

Click to expand...

Perhaps also contributing is knowing how to properly and regularly check the level (it's in the manual), instead of never thinking about the transmission until it dies - like most drivers on the road. Or never letting anyone but the tire guy touch it for 17 years.

Maybe she knows if she poops out a transmission, she's gonna be parts. Every now and then I spy a 2003 Sable Duratec and every option, but then there'd be no more "hey, nice SHO!"

#10 - "Transmission fluid cooler bypass" -- no part number

#3 and #4 hoses, part numbers like ####-7A030-## and ####-7A031-## I can find no info on exact SHO part number without going to a dealer. For 1994 Taurus 3.0 and 3.8, they already say "improvise out of stock tube" so the same surely applies here, although it would be nice to have a number for the rare NOS stuff that seems to be popping up these days.