Energy Suspension control arm bushing install

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tompumped

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I was just wondering why when I tighten the nut to the specified torque the bushing mushrooms out away from the tension strut on the washer ends. The passenger side tightened up fine, and curled in towards the tension strut. It doesn't look right on the driver side. I plan on replacing the tension struts eventually because mine were rusted, but for now I definitely trust them. I'm tightening them to 100 ft lbs on both ends. The washers face away from the bushings. I just don't want them to fail because of this. thanks
 
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JEM

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I was just wondering why when I tighten the nut to the specified torque the bushing mushrooms out away from the tension strut on the washer ends.

I'd guess either the other end of the bushing isn't properly seated in the arm (you are doing the final tightening with the car sitting on its wheels or a jack under the control arm with it pushed up to normal ride height, aren't you?) or there's a split or tear in the bushing somewhere that you can't see.

FWIW I think the ES bushings are too soft to use on both ends of the front strut rods, the factory red urethane pieces are harder and better at the front, the ES parts are fine at the rear.

The ES bushings are just about ideal for the rear suspension.
 

Eric VerValin

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I know the one set I had didn't fit right, and were completely loose. I eneded up using another set that fit better. Pretty sure it was an ES bushing that didn't fit.
 

tompumped

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I kept the red urethane on the one side, and es on the other for the front. I have to go back and retorque it with the suspension loaded but it's probably screwed up already. I did the rear today and I remembered to load the suspension.
I can't wait to get this car on the road, it's going to handle so much better then my last sho.
I was surprised how soft the control arm bushings were, I never felt poly bushings that soft. But it has to be better then the shredded rubber ones that were there.
thanks guys
 

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