HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
just disassemble, put the pump itself in a lathe, cut it down till its just a spacer and slap it back together
Bob
Project SHOpel. The beginning
- Thread starter BlackonBlack89
- Start date
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BlackonBlack89
SHO Member
Neat. Going to have to look up that thread.
I am still looking at my options. custom pan is ALOT easier than the dry sump. (duh). I found a place in NJ that specializies in performance oiling sytems. I am going to give them a call and explain what's going on with my opitions. A cust. oil pan is my first choice and this place does them with ease. we will see. also do dry sump too.
lol
remeber I am not even sure with a customized oil pan will even make it sit low enough. The SHO is a very tall engine
I am still looking at my options. custom pan is ALOT easier than the dry sump. (duh). I found a place in NJ that specializies in performance oiling sytems. I am going to give them a call and explain what's going on with my opitions. A cust. oil pan is my first choice and this place does them with ease. we will see. also do dry sump too.
lol remeber I am not even sure with a customized oil pan will even make it sit low enough. The SHO is a very tall engine
honestly i dont think you will need to mod the pan. there is a large notch in the front of the pan for the y pipe to go thru when its in a sho. if you can notch the firewall enough to get the motor mounts to bolt in factory locations(ps pump pulley, ac compressor pulley) with custom mounts and cut the tabs off of both sides of the fender wells. remove the ac compressor, and get a rather large cowl hood.
you should have alot of space after that. man i wish i had a lift, garage, welding equipment and just alittle bit of money. i dont need millions.
on a side note. if i were rich i would stop working and just build rwd sho swaps all day long. the only thing i couldnt do is wiring.
Lottery?
you should have alot of space after that. man i wish i had a lift, garage, welding equipment and just alittle bit of money. i dont need millions.
on a side note. if i were rich i would stop working and just build rwd sho swaps all day long. the only thing i couldnt do is wiring.
Lottery?
SHO92
New Member
To decrease the width, you can run a smaller/relocated alterator. Since the Opel doesn't have all of the accessories that the SHO had, that big alternator isn't needed anymore.
I was also going to suggest major surgery on the inner fenders, but it sounds like you've already looked into that.
Good luck, that should be a fun car when it's all done.
I was also going to suggest major surgery on the inner fenders, but it sounds like you've already looked into that.
Good luck, that should be a fun car when it's all done.
I've been waiting for this project to start. It looks like it'll be interesting and challenging. Keep us posted with pics.
luigisho
SHO Member
Challenge for sure. A short, narrow, and shallow engine bay for a modern motor.. especially for such a wide v6. Can't wait to see how it goes forward.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
you know what, if someone can fit an LS1 into an EVO, you can fit that SHO engine into the Opel....
Here's a few thoughts concerning the oil pan....first off, I'd stray away from dry sump at the moment unless it becomes an absolute last resort. If you have what it takes to fabricate, then make yourself a shallower, wider and longer oil pan with a trap door heading to a sump where the pickup's located. I think when me and Nick were looking at a dry sump setup, we were trying to figure out how to basically gravity feed the pickup while scavenging with an outboard pump....which is probably why we didn't use it.
As for fitment, it might be a good idea to go ahead and rip the headers and accessories off that puppy for the time being. You're obviously gonna need custom headers, and from the looks of things, the stock ones look to be somewhat in the way. Yank them bad boys off. Also, you might be surprised to find how much room the AC compressor takes up. Since you're doing some custom fab work, you could very easily lose that entire bracket and be just fine, and simply mount the altenator where the power steering pump would go, as it's been already mentioned that you can use a much smaller altenator (unless you're planning a massive system in this Bad Larry). Then you could fab up motor mounts that bolt directly to the block rather to a flimsy piece of cast crap that'll snap at the first hint of torque.
Here's a few thoughts concerning the oil pan....first off, I'd stray away from dry sump at the moment unless it becomes an absolute last resort. If you have what it takes to fabricate, then make yourself a shallower, wider and longer oil pan with a trap door heading to a sump where the pickup's located. I think when me and Nick were looking at a dry sump setup, we were trying to figure out how to basically gravity feed the pickup while scavenging with an outboard pump....which is probably why we didn't use it.
As for fitment, it might be a good idea to go ahead and rip the headers and accessories off that puppy for the time being. You're obviously gonna need custom headers, and from the looks of things, the stock ones look to be somewhat in the way. Yank them bad boys off. Also, you might be surprised to find how much room the AC compressor takes up. Since you're doing some custom fab work, you could very easily lose that entire bracket and be just fine, and simply mount the altenator where the power steering pump would go, as it's been already mentioned that you can use a much smaller altenator (unless you're planning a massive system in this Bad Larry). Then you could fab up motor mounts that bolt directly to the block rather to a flimsy piece of cast crap that'll snap at the first hint of torque.
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1995SHO9
FLEES ARE COMIN
BlackonBlack89
SHO Member
I wish that works. doubt but I still have to modify the trans tunnel so who knows. The stock MM locations is a stretch but custom MM can fix that.
Man I wish I had a lift too. Actually so far all the work is be done outside. lol. once the body work begins it will go inside the garage. I wish I had this guys garage.
The engine will remain stock for now. The rear is the next problem as the stock power levels are above what it can handle now. A 55-75 dry shot is my goal in the end. 300chp in 2000lbs is alot of power.
Yea thats a good idea on the alternator. The front part of the engine pretty much clears. The PS pump/bracket and AC condenser is already off so that help alot.
Trust me dry sump is a last resort but I do not have the means to weld aluminum. Thats the problem. however that doesnt stop me from atleast modifying a stocker and have someone do the work for me. Not nearly as much money.
The only ass. on the engine now is the WP and alt. The PS and AC is off (1 pic may not show it off but it is). The EM are not off yet b/c it started raining and ran out of time. But another reasone was headers are definalty in order. I knew that.
The idea for the MM so far is to have them going in the stock bolt locations (where the AC bracket bolts into da block and the other side) and have the MM itself kind of come forward at a slight anlge from the cross member. honestly thats still a few weeks away and really not even looked into yet.
I contacted the place that does custom oil pan stufff and even a customized oil pan is way too much. They wanted 1500-2000 for just the oil pan.
I think the guy was not understanding me but I was at work and had to go. So I said thank u and goodbye. Ill call again later to explain my self more. Actually to make the dry sump setup work said it would be around 1500. Not too bad IMO. but the oil pan was not included!!!! Anywho where can I get some header flanges.
Thanks for all the suggestions.:thankyou: You guys almost want this to happen more than me and I hope I can make it happen. Cause I want it ALOT
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BlackonBlack89
SHO Member
Who
JGS= what
JGS= what
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
jgs tool
yes, im sure jgs would be more then happy to quote you design / cut / clean / ship prices .... and it will be over $300 for one set of flanges
i have a header ****** cad file ..... just wish i could find a company worth a damn to cut them (among other things)
yes, im sure jgs would be more then happy to quote you design / cut / clean / ship prices .... and it will be over $300 for one set of flanges
i have a header ****** cad file ..... just wish i could find a company worth a damn to cut them (among other things)
If there is room in front of the engine bay, think about a bracket attached to the front of the engine that mounts the alternator facing the engine and run the alternator backwards. This will free up room on the sides. The alternator doesn't care which way it turns, it'll still make the same power spinning in either direction. Rectified A/C current is rectified A/C current.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
Good thinking, Doug. I was kinda thinkin the same thing after stumbling across a few supercharger pics showing the blower mounted reverse in the battery hole.
As for the oil pan...why does it need to be made of aluminum? Just custom make a complete pan out of mild steel or something. It doesn't have to be obscenely strong, as all it does is hold oil. Shouldn't be too hard to create a template to mount it based on the stock oil pan, and the great thing is, you can make it pretty much any shape you want, just so long as it's got a place for the pickup.
As for the oil pan...why does it need to be made of aluminum? Just custom make a complete pan out of mild steel or something. It doesn't have to be obscenely strong, as all it does is hold oil. Shouldn't be too hard to create a template to mount it based on the stock oil pan, and the great thing is, you can make it pretty much any shape you want, just so long as it's got a place for the pickup.
luigisho
SHO Member
I was thinking the same thing, as long as there is enough room to hold enough oil, the pickup tube, and if possible the windage tray would help. The frame looks really close though.
BlackonBlack89
SHO Member
Well tonight I did a little brainstorming for the oil pan problem. I looked at how far I can go forward and how shallow I can make it. Here are some pics to explain myself.
Heres what I want to do. Just extend the shallow part more. it will only be about 3 1/4 inches but that may just do it. Thats as far as I can go b/c of the oil sump, right now the line is about 1/2" away from it. Some pics to visualize my idea. Only negative I see is gong to loose the dipstick and some oil volume.
Pics of my idea
Going to have to cut the baffle inside. clean spot is 10"s
Oil pick up is about 10.5 inches from the edge of the oil pan.
Heres what I want to do. Just extend the shallow part more. it will only be about 3 1/4 inches but that may just do it. Thats as far as I can go b/c of the oil sump, right now the line is about 1/2" away from it. Some pics to visualize my idea. Only negative I see is gong to loose the dipstick and some oil volume.
Pics of my idea
Going to have to cut the baffle inside. clean spot is 10"s
Oil pick up is about 10.5 inches from the edge of the oil pan.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
Oil volume can be picked back up by running a remote oil filter and an FL1A filter. From the looks of things, you'd only be losing about 1/2 quart anyway, which would be made up for with just the filter.
Not sure why you'd lose the dipstick, though.....worse comes to worse, just chop it at the top and make it happen
Not sure why you'd lose the dipstick, though.....worse comes to worse, just chop it at the top and make it happen
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