172 176 and more really need soem help im at a loss

[1993MTXSHO]

ok guys Iv done all I can think of to do on this, and really need some input. As some of you know I just swapped the engine on my atx (old engine ran fine just the bearings were on their way out) I got he new engine in and it fired right up, first turn of the key almost instantly. The only thing I did to the new engine was replace the crank sensor wp, and plugs and of course retimed it. I drove it home, then took the dash apart to replace the CE light (burned out, gee guess it got a lotta use haha). Low and behold once I drove the car the light turned on. It turns on a few minutes after driving, and turns off every time I turn the car off but always comes back on. I ran codes and got 172 176 542 543. I had a feeling I mighta smashed the front 02 sensor and that was why I was getting codes, so I replaced it with another used one. Same problem, then replaced it with another known good one, yet again same problem. I reset the computer and did everything again and got code 172 and 176 but the others were gone. Then I remembered I had to solder the wiring harness because it was cut from the yard. So I rechecked and made some of my solders better, but STILL have the light. The car runs ok and idles fine, but when I step on the gas it kinda shutters a little, not bad but I can feel it. Then I guess it resets to defaults or something and takes off like it did with the old motor. The only thing I haven’t done is replace the rear o2 but it was fine on the old engine and im only getting a code that is saying the front one is bad. Is there anyway to check to make sure my solders are good like stick a meter in the plug and see if it’s getting a certain voltage or something?

Heres the only thread that kinda helped me:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=83457&highlight=172+176

The car failed inspection (sticker expired in November) and If I don’t go back by end of Feb. they can revoke my registration.:thankyou:

 

[yzstud]

me too

i had the same exact 4 codes on my 93atx, bought 2 new o2's and presto!!
codes were all cleared and never ever came back
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1138801,parttype,5132

 

[rubydist]

172 is lean on right bank.
176 is lean on left bank.
That means you need to replace both O2 sensors, not just one. when you do that, you need to unhook the battery when you do this, so the pcm resets, and starts over trying to adjust the fuel trim.

The other prime suspect would be a intake leak after the mafs, so there is more air going in than the pcm thinks there is. However, I've had this on 2 of my SHOs and it was the O2 sensors in both cases.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

I read someone had a fuel filter problem and it fixed this, so i replace that, and it didn't help, replaced the front o2 again and checked for intake leaks and still nothing. Looks like im going to have to buy new 02's, and I jsut got a ticket tonight too... i can't afford this.

 

[hawkeye18]

what was the ticket for? And I +1 on two new O2s, and resetting the computer.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

ha, i was speeding 53.4 in a 35 with matt (thecrew2999) i was at brians (area91) and we were trying to fix my sho and i ran otu to get a filter. I was pulled over for speeding, didnt have my registration or insurance with me cuz I forgot it at my appt since i had a recall done, and I had a failed sticker for my inspection on my windshield. The cop was in a good mood i guess and only gave me something like not paying attention to traffic signs and stuff. I don't think it gives me points, and it was only 108 dollars. Course i tried buying books today for school and couldn't cuz i didn't have enough money so this still didn't help me.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Okay, let's start here:

• what "used" items were pulled and re-used from the old engine
  (to include components, sensors, and harnesses)
  
  
• of the "re-used" items used, how old and/or many miles are on those items
  (ie. changed the plug wires last summer, or installed new fuel pump 12,000 ago)
  
  
• was the 176 code a CM (Continuous Memory) or KOER (Key On, Engine Running) code
  
  
• what have you changed or corrected since initially pulling the codes, trying to fix your issue
  
  
• what wires you soldiered, and what harness they're a part of
  (eg. DB/O wire; main engine harness, oxygen sensor harness after the connector; had to soldier all three wires, etc.)

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Okay, let's start here:

• what "used" items were pulled and re-used from the old engine
  (to include components, sensors, and harnesses)
  
  
• of the "re-used" items used, how old and/or many miles are on those items
  (ie. changed the plug wires last summer, or installed new fuel pump 12,000 ago)
  
  
• was the 176 code a CM (Continuous Memory) or KOER (Key On, Engine Running) code
  
  
• what have you changed or corrected since initially pulling the codes, trying to fix your issue
  
  
• what wires you soldiered, and what harness they're a part of
  (eg. DB/O wire; main engine harness, oxygen sensor harness after the connector; had to soldier all three wires, etc.)

car has 156k on it and the engine was pulled from a yard and has 87k on it. I used the junkyard harness to make things easier and kept the engine as an assembly and just dropped it in. I did solder the front o2 sensor harness, and that is where I think my problem may lie as my solders were not very good, I didn't have the right type of solder (thats what i was told as to why it wouldn't solder for me). I replaced the cps and water pump with a 40k mile cps and a 10k mile wp, and i installed new plugs. I put dielectric grease on them cleaned the plugs wires and wells out and reinstalled. I also last night did change the fuel filter and checked fuel rail pressure and the pressure was perfect. As far as the 176 I believe it was both (is that possible?)

 

[BruceJEubanks]

MAF Sensor

Hello I has a 94MTX that had those code for two years. No one could help me. Then to the car to the Ford Dealer ship they stated it was my MAF sensor. Cost to fix was 480. Yes kiss my butt ford. When down to Nampa replaced it and the car ran so nice after that. So do you have a sluggest engine at WOT? Mine was doing that.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Hello I has a 94MTX that had those code for two years. No one could help me. Then to the car to the Ford Dealer ship they stated it was my MAF sensor. Cost to fix was 480. Yes kiss my butt ford. When down to Nampa replaced it and the car ran so nice after that. So do you have a sluggest engine at WOT? Mine was doing that.

no mine ripps shit at wot jsut stumbled at part throttle. I did clean the mas 2 times, I guess ill try replacing it with the one in my shed this weekend when i go home cant hurt.

 

['94SHO]

Anyone you can trade MAF's with? Check for vacuum leaks.
And, if you have a Digital multimeter, I would check the O2 circuit from before
your splice, to the sensor. Check for continuity, and check what you are getting for OHM's, If you are getting a rediculous OHM reading, you need to
re-splice the wires. A faling MAF can give all kinds of weird codes, and act
like any number of things are wrong. I know this from personal experience.
Eliminate the MAF first, then check every vacuum line/ connection.
Then spend the $120.00 for both O2's... Do the FREE things first, then the
cheap option, then if all else fails, get new, quality parts...
Many people here just throw money at it, without going through the process.
I see people here who say, "I replaced the MAF, the DIS, the EGR, the CCRM,
the coil, the plugs, the computer, and it still won't idle!!"
SO, check everything first, then throw money at it.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Anyone you can trade MAF's with? Check for vacuum leaks.
And, if you have a Digital multimeter, I would check the O2 circuit from before
your splice, to the sensor. Check for continuity, and check what you are getting for OHM's, If you are getting a rediculous OHM reading, you need to
re-splice the wires. A faling MAF can give all kinds of weird codes, and act
like any number of things are wrong. I know this from personal experience.
Eliminate the MAF first, then check every vacuum line/ connection.
Then spend the $120.00 for both O2's... Do the FREE things first, then the
cheap option, then if all else fails, get new, quality parts...
Many people here just throw money at it, without going through the process.
I see people here who say, "I replaced the MAF, the DIS, the EGR, the CCRM,
the coil, the plugs, the computer, and it still won't idle!!"
SO, chech everything first, then throw money at it.

I checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner to see if the idle changed and didnt find anything. I did that with brian well he did it lol, (area91) I have a mas at my house that I know worked ill swap that on in this weekend. But what is this ohm reading thing that I can use to check to see if the harness is spliced ok? How do I do that is each pin supposed to have 1V with the key on or something? BTW the harness is spliced after the 02 connector its up towards the top past the ac compressor plug as well. I have all 6 of those wires spliced. BTW I do have a spare EGR, DIS and CCRM for this car think I should bother with any of them? Only thing I can think of is the egr since that doesnt run at WOT, but I don't think thad throw a front bank lean code.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

First, the junkyard engine:

• Did you see the car and odometer the engine was pulled from - or did they tell you it came from a SHO with 87,000?
  
  
• What model-year SHO was the engine pulled from - same year?
  
  
• How much oil was in the plug wells?
  
  
• What kind of plug wires and if they were Motorcraft, what year is printed on the wires?
  
  
• Did you pull the Camshaft Sensor? Any oil behind it?
  
  
• Any noticeable leaks?

Second, oxygen sensor harness:

• You state that you spliced 6-wires, yet the oxygen sensor only has 4-wires.
  (what are the color-codes for the 6-wires you spliced?)
  
  
• Given that the CEL (Check Engine Light) wasn't working before the engine-swap, did the car throw these codes prior to the engine change?
  
  
• If the oxygen sensors were not throwing codes before the engine-swap, did you use the sensors from the junk yard engine?
  
  
• When you changed sensors, how did you know the replacement sensors were/are good?
  
  
• Most importantly, why did you have to splice the wires?

Third, the MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor):

• Is the MAF the one that was in the vehicle before the engine-swap, or the one that came with the engine?
  
  
• Did you physically remove the actual sensor and spray it down, or simply spray through the hole in the MAF housing?
  
  
• What kind of air filter are you using and how old is it?

Fourth, engine harness:

• What kind of shape was the harness in?
  (condition of the connectors, corrosion on the terminal ends, wear-spots on the harness, a lot of dirt/oil on the harness or relatively clean)
  
  
• Did you keep the old engine harness assembly?

car has 156k on it and the engine was pulled from a yard and has 87k on it. I used the junkyard harness to make things easier and kept the engine as an assembly and just dropped it in. I did solder the front o2 sensor harness, and that is where I think my problem may lie as my solders were not very good, I didn't have the right type of solder (thats what i was told as to why it wouldn't solder for me). I replaced the cps and water pump with a 40k mile cps and a 10k mile wp, and i installed new plugs. I put dielectric grease on them cleaned the plugs wires and wells out and reinstalled. I also last night did change the fuel filter and checked fuel rail pressure and the pressure was perfect. As far as the 176 I believe it was both (is that possible?)

Okay, let's start here:

• what "used" items were pulled and re-used from the old engine
  (to include components, sensors, and harnesses)
  
  
• of the "re-used" items used, how old and/or many miles are on those items
  (ie. changed the plug wires last summer, or installed new fuel pump 12,000 ago)
  
  
• was the 176 code a CM (Continuous Memory) or KOER (Key On, Engine Running) code
  
  
• what have you changed or corrected since initially pulling the codes, trying to fix your issue
  
  
• what wires you soldiered, and what harness they're a part of
  (eg. DB/O wire; main engine harness, oxygen sensor harness after the connector; had to soldier all three wires, etc.)

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Can you have both? Yes, but it's not common. The 176 KOER code also brings-up a possible TP (Throttle Position sensor) issue which has been problematic for some in the past:

KOEO:

542 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault

543 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault
​

Continuous Memory:

172 (R,C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean

176 (C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/always lean

542 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault

543 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault
​

KOER:

136 (R) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/always lean

172 (R,C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean

176 (R) - Insufficient TP change during no oxygen sensor switch detected
​

Test code:

O = KOEO code
C = CM code
R = KOER code
​

.... As far as the 176 I believe it was both (is that possible?)

Okay, let's start here:

• deleted
  
  
• was the 176 code a CM (Continuous Memory) or KOER (Key On, Engine Running) code
  
  
• deleted

 

['94SHO]

I was getting both the lean, and the rich codes before I got a new MAF.
I also changed the TPS, it had a "flat" spot in the range...Both helped.

As for the OHM readings, pull the O2 sensor, attach one end at the splice,
and the other at the sensor.. Check for continuity first, then check your
OHM reading.. Too much resistance in any circuit acts like, well, a resistor..
I may be wrong, (and I am sure someone will correct me if I am), But I would
say that somewhere under 1,000 OHMs per foot of wire is acceptable..
So, too much resistance= the wrong signal reaching the 'puter.
Wish I could be more helpfull, but I can only relay MY experience with the SHO.
Did you check and clean all the grounds?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

There are several tests for the oxygen sensors, but some require heating them and measuring resistance at the connector. I'll look tonight to see what the procedures and values are.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

First, the junkyard engine:

• Did you see the car and odometer the engine was pulled from - or did they tell you it came from a SHO with 87,000?
  
  
• What model-year SHO was the engine pulled from - same year?
  
  
• How much oil was in the plug wells?
  
  
• What kind of plug wires and if they were Motorcraft, what year is printed on the wires?
  
  
• Did you pull the Camshaft Sensor? Any oil behind it?
  
  
• Any noticeable leaks?

-I personalyl pulled the engine fro ma car with odo reading of 87,***.
-It was pulled from the same year sho
-Wires are stock and im sure were never changed
-havent pulled the cam sensor
-no leaks engine holds oil amazing like iv never seen before in a sho haha

Second, oxygen sensor harness:

• You state that you spliced 6-wires, yet the oxygen sensor only has 4-wires.
  (what are the color-codes for the 6-wires you spliced?)
  
  
• Given that the CEL (Check Engine Light) wasn't working before the engine-swap, did the car throw these codes prior to the engine change?
  
  
• If the oxygen sensors were not throwing codes before the engine-swap, did you use the sensors from the junk yard engine?
  
  
• When you changed sensors, how did you know the replacement sensors were/are good?
  
  
• Most importantly, why did you have to splice the wires?

-I spliced the 4 o2 sensor wires and the 2 that run to the ac compressor plug
-I never checked the codes with the old engine
-sensors were used from the original car (155k miles)
-I didnt know they were good but I used 4 different sensors (one with the 87k on it one with 80k on it and one that was unknown mileage, and of course the one that was already in the car)
-the harness was cut at the yard before I got there by someone else, so I had to splice the plugs from my old harness

Third, the MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor):

• Is the MAF the one that was in the vehicle before the engine-swap, or the one that came with the engine?
  
  
• Did you physically remove the actual sensor and spray it down, or simply spray through the hole in the MAF housing?
  
  
• What kind of air filter are you using and how old is it?

-I used my mas from the original engine (it has been replaced befoer it is not an original one)
-I sprayed it through the housing to clean on 2 different occations
-its a k&n and was just cleaned by me throughly (silencer has also been removed)

Fourth, engine harness:

• What kind of shape was the harness in?
  (condition of the connectors, corrosion on the terminal ends, wear-spots on the harness, a lot of dirt/oil on the harness or relatively clean)
  
• Did you keep the old engine harness assembly?

-the harness from the junkyard was in much better shape then my original one, there was no grease or oil or anythign on it and the connectors looked pretty good
-no I threw it out as it was all cut up form me splicing connectors on the new harness and cutting it in half ot get the engien out of the car.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

I was getting both the lean, and the rich codes before I got a new MAF.
I also changed the TPS, it had a "flat" spot in the range...Both helped.

As for the OHM readings, pull the O2 sensor, attach one end at the splice,
and the other at the sensor.. Check for continuity first, then check your
OHM reading.. Too much resistance in any circuit acts like, well, a resistor..
I may be wrong, (and I am sure someone will correct me if I am), But I would
say that somewhere under 1,000 OHMs per foot of wire is acceptable..
So, too much resistance= the wrong signal reaching the 'puter.
Wish I could be more helpfull, but I can only relay MY experience with the SHO.
Did you check and clean all the grounds?

yes all ground were cleaned with a wire brush as were their mating surfaces

Also I did not splice the o2 sensor wiring, i spliced the main engine harness wiring coming from the engine goign down to the 02 and ac compressor sensors.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Can you have both? Yes, but it's not common. The 176 KOER code also brings-up a possible TP (Throttle Position sensor) issue which has been problematic for some in the past:

KOEO:

542 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault

543 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault
​

Continuous Memory:

172 (R,C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean

176 (C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/always lean

542 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault

543 (O,C) - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault
​

KOER:

136 (R) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/always lean

172 (R,C) - HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean

176 (R) - Insufficient TP change during no oxygen sensor switch detected
​

Test code:

O = KOEO code
C = CM code
R = KOER code
​

I have a spare tps maybe ill start with the mas swap, if that doesn't fix it ill put the different tps on.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

ok guys, I took the car out today for a 10-20 mile trip or so and when I restarted it after it was warm it was idling horrible. It was not running erratic but the rpms were varying up and down from 500 to 1300 or so and it wouldn't hold a steady idle. At one point I thought it was goign to stall so i stepped on the gas to keep it running. Is this any indication of my problem? It idled perfect for the first 500 miles or so and now its running like the iac is clogged or not working right. BTW I have cleaned the IAC.

EDIT: I was also thinking, but could this be a computer problem? Is there any chance the computer is messed up? I guess I could swap it as I do have the stock 93 computer (D4U1 is in it now).