How Do You Get The Water Pump Out??

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smokekicsazz

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I am smack dab in the middle of a water pump removal and replacement and I am stumped. First of all I have a 3.2 ATX, now what I am wondering is how in the heck do you get the pump off the engine. I have removed the bolts in the front that mount the pump to the block and it is loose but I can't get it out. I noticed on the new pump there are two bolt holes where it looks like the pipe from the lower hose bolts to but I don't see how the heck you are supposed to get to it to remove them. Do you have to remove the timing belt and the cover behind the cam gears? Do you have to take the whole intake Pleneum off? I have the chilton's book but it does not give me a diagram description of all the bolt locations and all the directions say in reference to getting it out is "remove mounting bolts", I took the balancer off, timing covers are off battery and tray are out, all pulleys I took off, lower hose is disconnected, I even took the alternator off, oh I also took off the pleneum pipe that has the DIS mounted to it. Any comments will be greatly appreciated, I did a search and someone took pics of the job but they were deleted, so I did do a search and found no info that would help me.....Please help!!!!!! Thanks ....Tom:hail:
 
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smokekicsazz

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http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

water pump removal is part of the above procedure. Read and learn!

I read that and looked at all the pics that engine is different than mine I have a 3.2 ATX he must have a MTX in that pic. There a cover that is not shown in any of his pics, there is some kind of cover where the pipe to the water pump goes and it is hidden I cant access the bolts to get the pump off..
 

rubydist

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I read that and looked at all the pics that engine is different than mine I have a 3.2 ATX he must have a MTX in that pic. There a cover that is not shown in any of his pics, there is some kind of cover where the pipe to the water pump goes and it is hidden I cant access the bolts to get the pump off..

The water pumps are not exactly the same, but nearly so. You do need to pull off the timing belt covers to get to the water pump, so you need to do most of what is described in that thread to get there. The atx front covers are slightly different from the mtx, but the process is the same.
 

smokekicsazz

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Thank you for all the tips...I bought a belt.....I also had to put a radiator in as well been fighting with the right lower trans cooler line rusted up bad and frozen, not complaining though, I only paid 400 dollars for this car with 157000 on it, does not use oil, needs full exhaust replaced too and I have check engine light on and abs, the abs is the tone rings I saw them when I replaced my rear calipers and brake hoses....anyways wish me luck...Tom
 

smokekicsazz

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Oh yes I just got done doing it about 1 hour and a half ago, those #$%^*%@ FORD engineers!!!!!!!! this car Ain't like a chevy Lumina, LOL, My fiancees grandmother is like a service advisor at a dealership she thinks it is a 10 min. job!!!!!
 
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'94SHO

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Tell me about it.. Heater core on a beretta, 20 minutes.. Try to do a Ford
heater core in under 4 hours.. More like 4 days! haha:oogle:
 

itwonder

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Procedure from the 1992 FSM

Removal

1. Drain engine coolant as outlined.

2. Disconnect battery ground cable.

3. Remove battery and battery tray.

4. Remove accessory drive belts.

5. Remove three bolts retaining A/C and alternator idler pulley and bracket assembly.

6. Disconnect electrical connector from ignition module and ground strap.

7. Loosen four screw clamps on upper intake connector tube and remove two retaining bolts.

8. Remove upper intake connector tube.



9. Raise vehicle and remove RH tire and wheel assembly.

10. Remove splash guard.

11. Remove upper timing belt cover.

12. Remove crankshaft pulley.

13. Remove lower timing belt cover.

14. Remove bolts from center timing belt cover and position out of the way.

15. Remove water pump retaining bolts.

16. Remove water pump.


Installation

1. Install water pump to cylinder block. Tighten to 15-23N-m (12-16 lb-ft).

2. Install center timing belt cover.

3. Install lower timing belt cover.

4. Install crankshaft pulley. Tighten to 152-172 N-m (113-126 lb-ft).

5. Install splash guard.

6. Install tire and wheel assembly. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-105 lb-ft).

7. Install upper timing belt cover.

8. Install upper intake connector tube.

9. Install two bolts on upper intake connector tube. Tighten to 15-23 N-m (12-16 lb-ft). Tighten four screw clamps.

10. Install A/C and alternator idler pulley and bracket assembly.

11. Install accessory drive belts.

12. Lower vehicle.

13. Connect battery ground cable.

14. Fill engine cooling system as outlined.

15. Start engine and check for leaks.
 
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smokekicsazz

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Dont forget clean the mouse nest out from under the pleneum when you get the water pump out LOL There was about 3 LBS of insulation from a house and acorns and pine needles!!!!!!! Well they have to keep warm too!!!
 
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Dont forget clean the mouse nest out from under the pleneum when you get the water pump out LOL There was about 3 LBS of insulation from a house and acorns and pine needles!!!!!!! Well they have to keep warm too!!!

Hahaha! You too? I had bad o-rings on my injectors, so I had a gas-soaked mouse nest. I couldn't help but think of what would've happened had it not been removed in time...**cue scrubs-style daydream**
 

TREpaNaTion

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when you replace the water pump be sure to vacuum out all the air from the motor or you will run into the problem that I had as well after I changed mine out. It ran me 65 dollars for a company to do it because I didn't know any better at the time. But it was a lesson well learnt.
 

SHOtimer

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x2... why would you remove all that?

Of course, otherwise you get coolant all over your timing belt, not to mention your CPS. It is a great time to put a new belt on anyway. Plus with all of that off, you can clean the front of your motor.

If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right.

Doug
 

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