Exhaust upgrades?

[The_Auto_Tech]

I don't catch the shield no, and I am lowered. However in a different post you mentioned already having to be aware how you drive to not damage stuff underneath. Any aftermarket downpipes are a bit lower than factory

The resonator is the only thing I've ever caught on the Flex, but that's because it hangs quite a bit lower than everything else does. I've been looking at/listening to exhausts over on the Flex forum and have yet to hear one that doesn't sound like a Nissan 3.5 (dying cow). lol

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I have catless PPE dp on my 13, and catted PPE dp on a 19. I picked up 4-5 tenths in 1/4 dragy runs with dp alone. No difference between catted or catless. Paul at PPE just did a full exhaust for me on the 13, mufflered xpipe, and Magnaflows. It sounds fantastic!!!! He is going to start selling the full exhaust. Doing the exact same setup on the 19 after Christmas.

Is there an advantage to the x-pipe or straight pipe? I understand the benefit on a NA motor but, I have not been able to find much on a turbo motor getting a benefit from it.

 

[kryptto]

Is there an advantage to the x-pipe or straight pipe? I understand the benefit on a NA motor but, I have not been able to find much on a turbo motor getting a benefit from it.

@Ta2dResqr you are right, I did find info and they advise against it. I recently email magnaflow for their Taurus cat back exhaust. In a post elsewhere, maybe this thread, they confirmed the mufflers in my signature and the X Flow resonator in that kit are the components plus pipes and accessories for $1500 thought I spent 300 for two mufflers and that X Flow resonator for a $200 more is all that their kit is.

That being all said - my best guess since I have seen people post that component makeup kills their drone. It's possible that X pope though for performance does nothing could be canceling the drone.

I will and going to cut out my Flowmaster FXs and replace for that mganaflow X pipe muffler/resonator to see the different stay tuned.

 

[Zpak]

The X is mainly for dampening the tone. While you don’t get scavenging like a naturally aspirated motor there are tests that show, albeit minor, some flow improvement on boosted applications. I was deep in the weeds when I put my exhaust together.

The bottom line is if you don’t want drone you either need a resonator and sacrifice some flow, or about 4’ of Helmholtz resonators under the trunk.

 

[kryptto]

The X is mainly for dampening the tone. While you don’t get scavenging like a naturally aspirated motor there are tests that show, albeit minor, some flow improvement on boosted applications. I was deep in the weeds when I put my exhaust together.

The bottom line is if you don’t want drone you either need a resonator and sacrifice some flow, or about 4’ of Helmholtz resonators under the trunk.

my findings as well, thanks for confirming.

 

[Mahu24]

Is there an advantage to the x-pipe or straight pipe? I understand the benefit on a NA motor but, I have not been able to find much on a turbo motor getting a benefit from it.

Yes, you get the same benefits, just less dramatic difference. It was more the sound benefit for me.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I would say the SHO guys probably have the benefit of less worry about drone in the cabin compared to the Flex guys as well. I know one of the big complains on the Flex side is drone when modifying the exhaust. Also, the other big complaint was opening the liftgate at idle causing some drastic "booming" inside the cabin too. That's why I'm extremely hesitant to change anything but the downpipes as I don't think think the performance gain is going to be worth the trade-off, especially on something that regularly sees 5 hour road trips.

 

[kryptto]

I would say the SHO guys probably have the benefit of less worry about drone in the cabin compared to the Flex guys as well. I know one of the big complains on the Flex side is drone when modifying the exhaust. Also, the other big complaint was opening the liftgate at idle causing some drastic "booming" inside the cabin too. That's why I'm extremely hesitant to change anything but the downpipes as I don't think think the performance gain is going to be worth the trade-off, especially on something that regularly sees 5 hour road trips.

I would agree with you, you could consider straight thru muffler replacements, for sound and less baffling.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I would agree with you, you could consider straight thru muffler replacements, for sound and less baffling.

Yea, I've considered changing the mufflers out to something that's still very quiet, but has different tip options. The chrome tips on the Flex get dirty instantly, and I'd rather have something in black probably, but haven't really come up with any good options. Also, a slightly smaller muffler would be nice as sometimes the exhaust hits the hitch on the right side when coming out of parking lots that have extreme angles.

 

[Zpak]

And yes, on a lowered SHO the pipes hit first.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

And yes, on a lowered SHO the pipes hit first. View attachment 89149

Man! Look at the size of the balls on that Bull!

 

[kryptto]

Yea, I've considered changing the mufflers out to something that's still very quiet, but has different tip options. The chrome tips on the Flex get dirty instantly, and I'd rather have something in black probably, but haven't really come up with any good options. Also, a slightly smaller muffler would be nice as sometimes the exhaust hits the hitch on the right side when coming out of parking lots that have extreme angles.

I painted the end of the muffler flat black. Not in picture.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I painted the end of the muffler flat black. Not in picture.

View attachment 89151View attachment 89152View attachment 89153

I considered doing that as well, it's pretty easy to drop the exhaust down without having to remove it and paint it.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

This weekend while I have the Flex up on the hoist I'm gonna drop the exhaust down and hit the mufflers and tips with satin black as well as wrap and install the PPE downpipes. After reading through many threads over on the Flex side about changing the catback and everyone being unhappy with it I'm just gonna play it safe and only do the downpipes.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

After doing a lot of reading around and talking to a few local guys I decided against wrapping the downpipes for a handful of reasons, namely that this vehicle is a daily driver, and if any fluids leak into the wrap it'll quickly deteriorate it, not to mention the constant heat cycling as well as the winter salt conditions is going to wreak havoc on it. I don't want to have to re-wrap the pipes in a short period of time, or even worse replace them due to corroding the pipes under the wrap.

 

[Mahu24]

After doing a lot of reading around and talking to a few local guys I decided against wrapping the downpipes for a handful of reasons, namely that this vehicle is a daily driver, and if any fluids leak into the wrap it'll quickly deteriorate it, not to mention the constant heat cycling as well as the winter salt conditions is going to wreak havoc on it. I don't want to have to re-wrap the pipes in a short period of time, or even worse replace them due to corroding the pipes under the wrap.

If the pipes are ceramic coated, they won't rust under the wrap. You usually are supposed to get the wrap wet to apply it, and salt isn't going to deteriorate it. The constant heat cycling is quite literally exactly what it is designed for. But to each their own.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

If the pipes are ceramic coated, they won't rust under the wrap. You usually are supposed to get the wrap wet to apply it, and salt isn't going to deteriorate it. The constant heat cycling is quite literally exactly what it is designed for. But to each their own.

I think for anything that's not a daily driver that's in the weather it might be fine, but for my uses I don't think wrapping them was going to be a good idea.

I did get the downpipes installed today without too much issue. The biggest problem was getting the old downpipes off as the hardware was all very rusty and baked on. Lots of oxy/acetylene torch work, but thankfully all the oxygen sensors came out fine. Some of the studs came out of the turbos when removing the nuts, so I just replaced the studs. Any of the ones that stayed in I took a die and cleaned up the studs and installed new lock nuts and flat washers. Installed new turbo outlet gaskets as well as the midpipe gaskets and hardware. I had to take a hammer and massage one small area of the rear downpipe to get it to clear the subframe a bit nicer so it wasn't so tight against it.

I also did gear the rear exhaust section lowered down, scuffed with a red Scotchbrite pad, and painted with low gloss black. Should hopefully be wrapping everything up tomorrow.

 

[kryptto]

I think for anything that's not a daily driver that's in the weather it might be fine, but for my uses I don't think wrapping them was going to be a good idea.

I did get the downpipes installed today without too much issue. The biggest problem was getting the old downpipes off as the hardware was all very rusty and baked on. Lots of oxy/acetylene torch work, but thankfully all the oxygen sensors came out fine. Some of the studs came out of the turbos when removing the nuts, so I just replaced the studs. Any of the ones that stayed in I took a die and cleaned up the studs and installed new lock nuts and flat washers. Installed new turbo outlet gaskets as well as the midpipe gaskets and hardware. I had to take a hammer and massage one small area of the rear downpipe to get it to clear the subframe a bit nicer so it wasn't so tight against it.

I also did gear the rear exhaust section lowered down, scuffed with a red Scotchbrite pad, and painted with low gloss black. Should hopefully be wrapping everything up tomorrow.

When you had the turbos exposed - did you check for wiggling?

 

[Mahu24]

I think for anything that's not a daily driver that's in the weather it might be fine, but for my uses I don't think wrapping them was going to be a good idea.

I did get the downpipes installed today without too much issue. The biggest problem was getting the old downpipes off as the hardware was all very rusty and baked on. Lots of oxy/acetylene torch work, but thankfully all the oxygen sensors came out fine. Some of the studs came out of the turbos when removing the nuts, so I just replaced the studs. Any of the ones that stayed in I took a die and cleaned up the studs and installed new lock nuts and flat washers. Installed new turbo outlet gaskets as well as the midpipe gaskets and hardware. I had to take a hammer and massage one small area of the rear downpipe to get it to clear the subframe a bit nicer so it wasn't so tight against it.

I also did gear the rear exhaust section lowered down, scuffed with a red Scotchbrite pad, and painted with low gloss black. Should hopefully be wrapping everything up tomorrow.

Glad it went well, just make sure you did not use nylon locking nuts for the turbo outlet ******

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

When you had the turbos exposed - did you check for wiggling?

Yep, no issues.