2016 Non PP Random Misfire Issues -- Check Engine Light -- Help Please

[Mr.ShoFast]

Hello Everyone,

I need help getting my non-PP SHO back up to its normal self again. Below is a summary of the events and the error codes:

Flashing CE light under WOT or when accelerating and trying to pass a vehicle
P0300 --> Random Misfire Detected
P0301 --> Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected
P0302 --> Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected
P0303 --> Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected

Random occurrence on this code
P0087 --> Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low

After SeaFoam in the TB
P2196 --> O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank #1 Sensor #1
P2198 --> O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank #2 Sensor #1​

Background:
* bought the car used from Florida --> shipped it to Los Angeles in June 2018
* has been working just fine up to just last week
* car was working fine with the blow-off valve return hose removed since June (but its back to OEM now)
* normally used 91 Octane but pumped at ARCO and used 87 octane...that's when the problems started after the second fill up!!!!!
* since then I'm back on 91 Octane
* used Marvelous Mystery oil once and that's it
* would use Lucas Octane Booster (+3) when I pumped 91 octane (here and there)
* would use SeaFoam in the fuel (here and there)

Issue prior to the Misfire:
* the small hose that controls the turbos (the one w/out a clamp) came off - I noticed a power surge at around 60 mph and along with a constant release/activation of the blow-off valves while driving. Read about it online and reconnected the hose...secured it with a small clamp and worked just fine until the issue below...

Now the Issue:
* as most SHO owners...I did a high speed run under 100 mph and check engine light flashed followed by limp mode
* CE light came off after a few miles but when I pushed the car WOT the issue came up again
* used SeaFoam in the fuel to see if it would help clear contaminants and so forth --> nothing changed
* replaced spark plugs with MotorCraft SP534 (will need to double check the boxes for that #) but issue continued

What I found on the web:

1) replace the plugs = done

2) test/replace coils = don't think this is the issue

3) drill a hole in the bottom of the IC (inter-cooler) due to a build up of condensation - wasnt SHO specific but EcoBoost related --> not sure I want to do this yet

4) have the car flashed and maybe that can set a clean baseline - I do feel the car had a Tune before (it goes over 140 mph)...but how can I tell this was modified?

...Would like to check in with the fellow SHO lovers for other ideas before the dealer rips me off...Thank You

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

..forgot to add

The car only has 45K miles

 

[bpd1151]

Please, for your own sake, and that of your SHO's DO NOT perform what you have listed as #3.



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[SHOdded]

Do a compression test first, make sure the engine is healthy.

Clean both MAP sensors and the IAT sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.

F150 ecoboost fixes do not necessarily translate to SHO fixes. First confirm there IS a problem to be addressed. Jack up the car on the driver side, remove the IC to TB hose. After about 10-15 minutes, use the engine oil dipstick to check the level of accumulation in the intercooler. If it is under 1/4 inch, unlikely to be an issue, though it should be sucked out anyway, so you might want to have tooling available to do that. Look to ecoboostperformanceforum.com, HOW TO section for ideas on this procedure.

You will at some point want to borescope the back of the intake valves to see if there is carbon buildup that needs to be addressed. At the mileage stated, should not be an issue, but ... A carbon issue likely goes along with buildup in the intercooler.

Are you using a quality full synthetic 5W30 engine oil?

Is the battery good? Not just voltage, but CCAs.

Are the misfires felt only at speed, while accelerating hard, or all the time/any time?

Also please post pics of the engine bay, intrepid members will spot if there looks to be anything not OEM/out of the ordinary that might be contributing to the problem.

 

[4sfed]

Have you tested the gas in the tank? I've seen a bad tank of gas cause strange issues.


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[SM105K]

I wouldn't put Arco gas in my lawnmower.

 

[4sfed]

Have you tested the gas in the tank? I've seen a bad tank of gas cause strange issues.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To clarify...I used to put about an about an ounce of water in a clear coke bottle (THIS might be the most difficult part of this process; finding a glass coke bottle). MAKE SURE to note how high the water is in the bottle, before you put the fuel in. You'll want to see if the water level rises. If the water level rises, it pulled out either more water or alcohol...or both. Plus you'll get to see any dirt on the layer between the water and the fuel.

Not sure it'll be the cause, but your description seems to mention that this started after a fill-up.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Please, for your own sake, and that of your SHO's DO NOT perform what you have listed as #3.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Taking this option off the list ASAP - thank you

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Thanks for the all of the information I will have a few things to do once I get back from work tonight.

1) clean sensors - any recommended fluid of choice for this?

2) remove IC hose and drain

3) boroscope engine (will need help with this -weekend task plus I need a cam)

4) oil - was serviced at local Ford Dealership

5) battery was fine when last serviced but will test at Autozone tonight and see what the CCA’s are and post the update

6) misfire is initiated by pressing the throttle more than half way in or WOT - when WOT is performed engine revs to about 5k RPM and won’t shift past that point and I let off the pedal since the CE light will flash - I will need to shoot a video of this in action today so you guys can see it first hand - the misfires happen at all times morning/afternoon so I tend to granny my driving and it does just fine (but who wants to do this in a SHO when you have twin turbos waiting to rip a quick pull on an unsuspecting vehicle?)

7) picture link to the album https://imgur.com/gallery/rNIw3KG

Do a compression test first, make sure the engine is healthy.

Clean both MAP sensors and the IAT sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.

F150 ecoboost fixes do not necessarily translate to SHO fixes. First confirm there IS a problem to be addressed. Jack up the car on the driver side, remove the IC to TB hose. After about 10-15 minutes, use the engine oil dipstick to check the level of accumulation in the intercooler. If it is under 1/4 inch, unlikely to be an issue, though it should be sucked out anyway, so you might want to have tooling available to do that. Look to ecoboostperformanceforum.com, HOW TO section for ideas on this procedure.

You will at some point want to borescope the back of the intake valves to see if there is carbon buildup that needs to be addressed. At the mileage stated, should not be an issue, but ... A carbon issue likely goes along with buildup in the intercooler.

Are you using a quality full synthetic 5W30 engine oil?

Is the battery good? Not just voltage, but CCAs.

Are the misfires felt only at speed, while accelerating hard, or all the time/any time?

Also please post pics of the engine bay, intrepid members will spot if there looks to be anything not OEM/out of the ordinary that might be contributing to the problem.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Have you tested the gas in the tank? I've seen a bad tank of gas cause strange issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the note - any instructions or recommendations on doing this? I’ll look on here but later tonight once I get home.

 

[6500rpm]

Since you have multiple "random" misfires need to look at things common to ALL effected cylinders. Fuel Quality, Fuel pressure, Air delivery, restricted exhaust. In your case, the multiple randoms seem to be related to one bank (cyl's 1,2,3= Bank 1)+ the rich code would make me want to look at possible exhaust restrictions except you didn't note any sensor 2 code (unless you're tuned to turn that sensor off). Fuel, air, and spark demands are highest under high load/wot. I'm not sure if the transmission looks at MAP input for shifting, but a restricted exhaust should also make MAP sensor values fall off a cliff under load.

edit -to read all effected cylinders

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

To clarify...I used to put about an about an ounce of water in a clear coke bottle (THIS might be the most difficult part of this process; finding a glass coke bottle). MAKE SURE to note how high the water is in the bottle, before you put the fuel in. You'll want to see if the water level rises. If the water level rises, it pulled out either more water or alcohol...or both. Plus you'll get to see any dirt on the layer between the water and the fuel.

Not sure it'll be the cause, but your description seems to mention that this started after a fill-up.

I’ll swing by a local Mexican restaurant and pickup a glass bottle. Just wanted to double check the process with you...

1) glass bottle
2) pour 1 Oxford water in (I’ll use the wife’s measuring cups haha)
3) mark the level of the water
4) pour fuel into the bottle

5) wait and observe for water to go to the top and this will indicate bad fuel potentially?

This is the step I wasn’t too clear on. Since the ARCO fill-up incident...this baby has seen nothing but Shell 91 octane fuel.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

I’ll swing by a local Mexican restaurant and pickup a glass bottle. Just wanted to double check the process with you...

1) glass bottle
2) pour 1 Oxford water in (I’ll use the wife’s measuring cups haha)
3) mark the level of the water
4) pour fuel into the bottle

5) wait and observe for water to go to the top and this will indicate bad fuel potentially?

This is the step I wasn’t too clear on. Since the ARCO fill-up incident...this baby has seen nothing but Shell 91 octane fuel.

Meant to say Oz. not “Oxford” sorry

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Since you have multiple "random" misfires need to look at things common to ALL cylinders. Fuel Quality, Fuel pressure, Air delivery, restricted exhaust. In your case, the multiple randoms seem to be related to one bank (cyl's 1,2,3) + the rich code would make me want to look at possible exhaust restrictions except you didn't note any sensor 2 code (unless you're tuned to turn that sensor off). Fuel, air, and spark demands are highest under high load/wot. I'm not sure if the transmission looks at MAP input for shifting, but a restricted exhaust should also make MAP sensor values fall off a cliff under load.

You think using the Torque app will help look at all these variables and log them? Any recommendations on OBD apps/diagnostic programs?

I would like to flash to stock (if it already isn’t) but don’t know how to do this. Will need to research this further.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Here is a video of how it sounds while driving - sound up so you can hear everything.

https://imgur.com/gallery/EYRj7tK

I cleared the codes prior to the video and the same ones showed up right after... misfire


This is a link to the details of the OBD reader. Fuel pressure looked low (600’s).

https://imgur.com/gallery/r0nPhSH

 

[4sfed]

I’ll swing by a local Mexican restaurant and pickup a glass bottle. Just wanted to double check the process with you...

1) glass bottle
2) pour 1 Oxford water in (I’ll use the wife’s measuring cups haha)
3) mark the level of the water
4) pour fuel into the bottle

5) wait and observe for water to go to the top and this will indicate bad fuel potentially?

This is the step I wasn’t too clear on. Since the ARCO fill-up incident...this baby has seen nothing but Shell 91 octane fuel.

Sorry...the water isn't meant to be an exact measure; just make sure you know the water line before adding the fuel, so you'll know if it changes at all, after adding the fuel. That's pretty much it...but if you've added other fuel already, this might not show anything.

 

[SHOdded]

Yes transmission shifting is controlled by inputs from many sensors, the MAPs being some of them. The control is mainly via the PCM, it is merely transmitted via the solenoid body and valve body, which are rather simplistic devices compared to the PCM.

Use MAF sensor cleaner as mentioned for the sensors. CRC is my goto brand, but electronics cleaner will do just fine also.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Yes transmission shifting is controlled by inputs from many sensors, the MAPs being some of them. The control is mainly via the PCM, it is merely transmitted via the solenoid body and valve body, which are rather simplistic devices compared to the PCM.

Use MAF sensor cleaner as mentioned for the sensors. CRC is my goto brand, but electronics cleaner will do just fine also.

Thanks for clarifying- I also missed one of your first steps on the original reply - I will need to do a compression test on the engine ASAP - but tonight ill be picking up a can of this and cleaning the sensors.

 

[6500rpm]

I keep thinking about this, and from what you've posted all the misfires are common to bank 1, but only under load. Without looking under my hood, I'm thinking that each fuel rail has it's own harness. High resistance at the bank 1 rail harness to main harness connector could be suspect. Low fuel rail pressure or bad fuel should effect both banks and throw random multiple misfires for all cylinders. You should be able to monitor MAP value w/ the torque app, or when you changed the plugs from each bank and looked at them was bank 1 covered in soot compared to bank 2? Usually a restricted exhaust will cause the plug to have heavy black soot, so if bank 1 has issues and bank 2 is clean it's something worth checking further. Think of it like this, both cylinders have a common mouth providing air, a common fuel rail/fuel and 2 different ass holes-if one is puckered up it's going to cause issues on that side. Coils tend to just be wired to the main engine harness, but while you're under the hood you may want to verify there's no connector for each bank. It's the whole bit about misfires only being on bank 1 under load, on 1/2/3 that throws me off.

 

[SHOdded]

Airflow is not the same between bank 1 and bank 2. You will often see more deposits on the back of intake valves on bank 1 than 2. Poses a challenge also for methanol injection, not a big one usually, but a little bit. Enough that direct port injection was actually developed by Livernois to neutralize.