Thanks. That looks really good, and I agree that looks like the best option and geometry. Thumbs up!
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I just received my beautiful new SHO source coilovers this week. I am an ASE certified auto mechanic, but I just have a few questions to get me started, and thought I would start a thread for all of the others that are waiting to put these things of beauty on their cars.
1. Should I tighten the top nut with an impact? I don't see another way, but with the nylon washer in the top nut, I'm worried about it spinning the shaft, and there is no way to hold the shaft with the adjustment on the top.
2. What spring preload should I use? It looks like for a sports car coilover, zero preload is mostly recommended unless you have problems after install. Anyone have any suggestions for the SHO?
Mostly a guess to start with. Install, lower car, measure fender to center hub, calculate what you desire for ride height and raise back up to adjust.3. Where do I even start with height adjustment? Just put them in as they are, get the car back on the ground and then figure out where I need to go from there?
4. Sway bar preload. Not sure what the best adjustment is for the sway bars either. Do I try and keep the stock placement?
I finished my research. Somewhere during the last batch of coilovers, our supplier for the yellow blocks changed the design to put a bulged area on the bottom where it meets the plastic of the spring mount. This could explain the galling of the plastic. You are the first one to notice the issue, so we do not know how many people could have the issue, but we think it was only a recent change in the camber/caster kits. I originally designed the bottom of the block to be smooth so it would easily slide against the plastic blocks.Took them apart this weekend to flip the yellow block and greased them. Noticed some galling in the upper cups where they ride against the yellow blocks. After getting them back together I noticed that the sleeves that go over the strut shaft and in the inside of the articulating mounts are loose (should have a wider outer diameter?) and the mount moves back and forth on the strut shaft, which I believe is causing the binding (it was better after greasing, but not all the way).
Any ideas?
I just now caught wind of this potential issue, I have not installed mine yet either and i will check mine as well...Thanks for catching this.I have yet to put mine together but I have been following Tim's install here and he's been keeping me updated on Facebook. I'll take a look at mine tonight when I get home and see if mine are flat or have the bulge. Thanks for being such an upstanding and outgoing seller Mike!
I sent you a couple of emails over the weekend. Did you get them?Those are the design that could cause an issue. I know there are people using this design with no problems, but the original design was better. If you send me an email with your current address, we will send you a modified set with a return label to send these ones back.
- Mike
Yes. Sorry I did not reply sooner. We were moving my daughter into a new house so I was away from my computer. We have your modified yellow blocks and an extra steel bushing packaged and it will ship tomorrow.I sent you a couple of emails over the weekend. Did you get them?
I am confident the modified blocks will solve the issue. I am surprised more people have not had the problem. It could be they run it looser, more ****, or something else, but we will fix it long term with the modification.Finally had time to get them back out and apart. I have the raised part on the bottom of the yellow blocks, and that is what appears to be gouging into the top part of the articulating mount. Just need the new pieces and we'll try it again!
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