Bleeding MC in car, do I have it right?

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jayro

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Hi all,
I wanted to make sure I got this right. I want to bleed my whole brake system including making sure there is no air in the master cylinder. I was searching and found some posts suggesting I jack the front of the car up as high as I can get it and then bleed the snot out of the system at the calipers. They said that this will push any air that may be in the MC through the lines and out of the calipers. Will this method work? Also (kind of a stupid question) with the front jacked up and the rear on the ground I will only be able to bleed through the front, will this still get any air out of the MC? I saw I should run about 2 quarts through it to make sure.

My brakes work pretty well, but the pedal feels a little soft under hard braking. It has good resistance at first, but then gets gets softer under constant pressure. I already have SS lines and the '96 uprade. Thanks
 
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SHOtimer

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I don't think the level of the car will matter much.

If you don't have bias plugs you will need to either jack up the rear drivers side spindle, when you bleed the rear brakes to open up the bias valve.

You should bleed the rear passenger first, then front drivers side, then rear drivers side, then front passenger side.

-I bought a power bleeder and it made a WORLD of difference. See my thread here:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111906

Doug
 
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Eric VerValin

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If you have ramps its the best... what your thinking of is the MC being tilted forward. If you jack it up from the rear it will leave it more level and won't get that bubble stuck in the back side of the mc. I always used a Zip Tie on the prop valve when bleeding too, but IIRC don't you have bias plugs?
 

yamahaSHO

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I would jack up the rear if your'e looking to get a bubble out of the MC. You may need a rubber mallet to tap as you bleed. I have to do this as well and plan to use a Power Bleeder.
 

jayro

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If you have ramps its the best... what your thinking of is the MC being tilted forward. If you jack it up from the rear it will leave it more level and won't get that bubble stuck in the back side of the mc. I always used a Zip Tie on the prop valve when bleeding too, but IIRC don't you have bias plugs?

No bias plugs, but I do have the bias valve ziptied up so that it is always open.

So you are saying it is the rear that I should jack up to get the MC at the correct angle, not the front?

I may look into a power bleeder since I bleed them quite often.
 

jayro

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-I bought a power bleeder and it made a WORLD of difference. See my thread here:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111906

Doug

The links in the thread didn't work, but I found the website. I found the model 0107 that says its for fords with 3 prong caps, but in your other thread it recommended the universal one. I found a universal one model 0101. Is that the one tht is recommended?
 

RonPorter

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Motive bleeder is one of the top inventions EVER for the home mechanic. True one-man operation. I've had one for 10 years. Across all the cars I've done, I get a hard pedal every time.

Use the Universal. Buy some extra chain at the hardware store. You will understand once you get it.

The Ford adaptor is a waste. Oh, Motive did a great job, but the "threads" on top the m/c are wimpy and won't hold any pressure.

Doesn't mater to jack up the car. Also, it doesn't matter which corner you do first. Before 1965 & the single systems, bleeding the rears first mattered Irrelevant today.

With a Motive bleeder, one quart/liter does the whole system.
 

K-Dawg

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I just ordered the Motive 0101 Universal Power Bleeder a few hours ago. I'm tired of having to bother somebody to help me flush/bleed brakes.
 

jayro

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I just ordered the Motive 0101 Universal Power Bleeder a few hours ago. I'm tired of having to bother somebody to help me flush/bleed brakes.

This is the route I'm gonna take. I still need to bleed and then cycle the ABS on a gravel road and bleed agian, correct? I don't have the ABS tool.
 

SHOZ123

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Start the engine so you have the benefit of the power brakes. Makes the rears a lot easier to do.
 

AREA 91

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I do it the really easy way. I let gravity do all the work while the car is on the lift.
 

jayro

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I do it the really easy way. I let gravity do all the work while the car is on the lift.

Ive never done it this way. You just open the bleeder and MC cap and let it drain till you have drained through the desired amount? Then tighten bleeder and move to the next? Sounds pretty easy, but I would think it would take a while.
 

RonPorter

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This is the route I'm gonna take. I still need to bleed and then cycle the ABS on a gravel road and bleed agian, correct? I don't have the ABS tool.

Yep, if you are concerned about getting the ABS unit flushed. Or check Ebay for a Thexton tool. A number of us bought them cheap years ago, and there's probably some floating around.
 

RonPorter

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Ive never done it this way. You just open the bleeder and MC cap and let it drain till you have drained through the desired amount? Then tighten bleeder and move to the next? Sounds pretty easy, but I would think it would take a while.

Some of the 911 guys use the gravity method. Works fine, just takes some time.

If the calipers hold a bubble, you should tap them with a hammer (which I do with the Motive bleeder) to knock air loose.
 

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