How to wire a SHO motor in something else.

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by Off Road SHO, Feb 24, 2011.

  1. 3d914

    3d914 SHO Member

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    OK, I think I found one of them (grey connector). I was digging through the pages of your manual that I copied. On pages 61-1,2 & 5 for the Instrument Cluster, there's a connector C133 that has the correct colors. I then checked the Inline Connector Face pages and found it on page 150-10. These match the grey male connector.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2012
  2. 3d914

    3d914 SHO Member

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    Also figured out the black connector. On page 23-5 of the Engine Controls there's a reference to a O/Y wire that goes to C103. If I look up C103M Inline Connector Faces (page 150-4) it agrees with the wire mis-match I found for both the male & female connectors. Pins 5 & 6 are unique to the 3.0 only, and the 3.2 uses 7 & 8.

    So I am going to have to find these two connectors (C133M & C103M) from an ATX component harness so that I can match them up with my ATX engine harness.
     
  3. krek

    krek ChumpCar Racer

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    I have a couple of questions.

    Pin #19 of the 3.0 PCM is "Fuel Pump Monitor" - this is the fuel pump inertia switch, yes? I have eliminated the inertia switch so this wire can be clipped and terminated?

    Pin #22 is "Lo Speed Fuel Pump"
    Pin #41 is "Hi Speed Fuel Pump"

    There is only one fuel pump, correct? Since this is a race car I can just use Pin #41 to the fuel pump relay, yes? (we've also eliminated the CCRM and are using separate relays).

    Similar situation with the electric cooling fan. Pin #55 from the PCM is "Lo Fan Control" and I don't see a "Hi Fan Control" from the PCM. Pin #3 and #4 from the CCRM splice together before the connector for the fan, so does the MTX have a two speed fan or no?
     
  4. St Louis SHO

    St Louis SHO Rollin' coal Staff Member

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    Only 94/5 have a two speed fan.
     
  5. rbruso

    rbruso unlikely

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    '89 was the only year that the two fuel pump outputs did anything special. There was an external resister box that dropped the voltage of the low output to run the pump slower.

    For '90 and later the two outputs are joined (external to the computer) so the pump runs full voltage all the time. The computer does switch the high signal on and off, just not sure if it also turns off the low signal.

    Safest bet is to go with the factory scheme and wire the two together right out of the computer and run one wire.
     
  6. krek

    krek ChumpCar Racer

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    Our '90 had the resistor up on the firewall but we eliminated it. The fuel pump is acting wonky with the two wires joined. When the PCM is grounded (Pins 20, 40 and 60) the fuel pump doesn't run at all. When the PCM is ungrounded, it runs continuously.

    Do I need to fight this? We are running separate relays (no more CCRM) so can't I just put power to the fuel pump from the Ignition switch and bypass the PCM altogether?
     
  7. rbruso

    rbruso unlikely

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    Weird. I'm looking at my EVTM now (which doesn't break down the innards of the CCRM, unfortunately). Have you tried seeing if the low and high circuits both have power when the car is in run? If not, I'd either try running the low and seeing if fuel shuts down at the cutover or run a pair of diodes to keep the two circuits from feeding power into each other.

    The only downside to bypassing the computer entirely would be that it would probably throw one of the various fuel circuit code (59, 83, 95, 96, etc). I don't think those codes puts the car into limp home mode, though. Pin 19 is the monitor line that splices in after the CCRM output but before the impact switch. If you provided power to that pin directly I think that would make the computer happy about the fuel circuit, but I'm not positive.

    In any case, keep us posted on the outcome. It would be nice to have a known good minimum wiring scheme for the 3.0 ECU.
     
  8. 92sho16

    92sho16 boosted

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    I have a couple of questions or verifications for that matter I would like to pose. My FFR chassis harness provide power to the fuel pump but I want it wired in for engine control, from what I gather it appears that pin 5 of the ccrm pk/bk fuel pump safety switch to fuel pump is what supply the power to the pump? Second question is similar situation with the cooling fan what is automatically control by the eec for a M code CCRM Pins 3 and 4 supply the cooling fan?
     
  9. 3d914

    3d914 SHO Member

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    92sho16,
    Here's a link to details on the ICRM/CCRM and related relays. Been going through this process myself, There's some good info there. I can add an image of the 94 ATX (type J) CCRM if that helps.

    Here's another link to my relay config (similar to stock 95 Type-D) since I'm not using CCRM, but building custom relay panel.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  10. 92sho16

    92sho16 boosted

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    Thank you for your help. I am well familiar with ccrm diagrams but the nomenclature that ford used to describe circuit function is where I am getting hung up. What I plan to do to figure this out is probe where I think the signals for the fuel pump and cooling fan are and try to catch them during the key cycle.
     
  11. Falconvan

    Falconvan SHO Member

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    I see several of you are eliminating the CCRM and going with stand alone relays; is there a specific reason why this is more desireable than just using the CCRM?
     
  12. Falconvan

    Falconvan SHO Member

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    Im getting my harness set up for my 49 Plymouth and here's the pins I'm thinking I will not need to make the engine run:
    14, 27 (eliminating EGR), 28, 33, 41, 42, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54, and 55.

    Here's the one's I'm not sure about:
    2, 3 (do I need a VSS?), 5, 6, 11 (what's this?), 14, 29, 30, 38, and 46.

    Im using a Ranger manual trans so I wont be using the auto trans functions.

    Any advice/corrections are most welcome!
     
  13. shomethe$$$

    shomethe$$$ SHO Member

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    I used the CCRM, I say if you can still source used one's, then that's the best way to go, I've only ever burned one of these CCRM's when one of the fan wire's insulation came undone and shorted out (not fused at that time), its the best and least complicated in my opinion.

    When I installed the SHO engine on my Honda, you only have to worry about a few wires that go to the dash, brake switch, FP, cruise control (not used), EVAP purge (not used)..etc....I have the exact schematic written at home, i'll take a look, because what I did was take the insulation off the entire engine bay of the donor car and traced all the wires all the way to the interior. It wasn't as bad as I thought, most of them were not used. like cruise control, evap, AC cutoff etc. I'll get back.
     
  14. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    I went with separate relays because they're cheaper to buy AND replace AND I trigger all my relays with ground, not 12 volts. That keeps +12 volts away from the switches and center console.

    Tom
     
  15. Falconvan

    Falconvan SHO Member

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    Thanks, good advice. Tom, I was looking at your original post where you wrote this about the ATX PCM functions:

    Pin 46 of PCM feeds Ref Voltage on the Gray/Red stripe wire to the following:
    To the ECT Sensor and back on light green/red to pin 7.
    To Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor and back on grey / black to pin 5.
    To the MLPS (on ATX PCM cars) and back on Light Blue/Yellow to pin 30.
    The ATX PCM expects to see 3770-4607 Ohms on pin 30 if it is in “Park”
    The ATX PCM expects to see 660-807 Ohms on pin 30 if it is in “Neutral”
    The ATX PCM expects to see 190-232 Ohms on pin 30 if it is in “Drive”


    Im assuming the PCM needs to see it is in "DRIVE" to disable the rev limiter and "PARK" for hi idle functions? I think I can accomplish that with some parallell resistors and a latch relay circuit with a momentary push button switch to engage the "DRIVE" function but then drop it out and back into "PARK" when the ignition is turned off. Is there any reason I would need the "NUETRAL" function to be operable?
     
  16. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    Falconvan,

    I had my chip programmer dude delete all of the shift lever position crap out of the code so that I don't have to worry about it.

    You can wire it so that it is always in "Drive" so that you have have the full rpm's and then just just bypass the Manual Lever Position Switch with the starter solenoid trigger from your ignition switch. I don't remember off hand what resistance the PCM needs to see to establish that the car is in Drive.

    Tom
     
  17. rubydist

    rubydist SHO Member

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    the stock pcm needs to see park or neutral to allow start, and it needs to not see park or neutral to disable the rev limiter. its not hard to work around that, and there are a couple of threads here on the forum that detail how to modify the mlps to make the pcm see that.
     
  18. Falconvan

    Falconvan SHO Member

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    Makes sense, I'll look at those. Who did your chip, Tom? Did you go that route rather than buying your own programmer?
     
  19. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    A local tuner guy that is expert at it. He did Lightnings, Mustangs and is now deep into Dodges. I'm not very good at coputers and speeling either. My chip has 3 different tunes plus a Vacant tune for anti theft purposes. I can run pump gas, race gas and race gas with nitrous depending on which tune is switched in.

    This is on the race gas (middle tune with about 8 lbs of boost) with the Supercoupe Eaton blower on her.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

    Tom
     
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  20. Falconvan

    Falconvan SHO Member

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    Sounds good, I may go that route rather than trying to tune it myself. Still weighing options.
     

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