How To Torque the ATX Crank Pulley(works for MTX too)

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by Irish Pride, May 9, 2012.

  1. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member

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    There are a couple of ways to torque the MTX crank pulley and SHO Phoenix has a pretty good step by step on how to do it, but there isnt anything on there about hot to torque the ATX pulley. What i do is pretty simple and it works like a charm. Its not really a secret, i actually learned about it here on the forum, but it took lots of searching and reading before i came across it. There isnt a thread on it, just a post with a rough sketch of what to do. I figured i would take some pics and post them up.

    Needed materials -

    -1/2" drive torque wrench
    -1/2" drive 19mm socket
    -Large 3" C-clamp(very important that it be a "large" 3 inch clamp)
    -Small section of hard wood(something that wont split under the clamps pressure)

    [​IMG]

    First you want to get the pulley on the crank and tighten it down as much as possible with your ratchet. Leave the 19mm socket on the crank bolt so you know how far on to place the piece of wood without it interfering. What you want to do is to clamp the piece of wood to the pulley as shown in the pic. Your wood doesnt need to be as long as what i used, it just needs to be large enough to go across the pulley to give you a flat surface to clamp to.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once you have the wood clamped down nice and tight you can then go ahead and attach your 1/2" drive torque wrench and start torqing it down. The way this works is the back side of the c-clamp will be pressed up againt the lower part of the motor and will keep the pulley completely stationary while you torque it down. This is why you need to make sure to use a large clamp. A small one will not make contact with the engine and instead start to lodge up against the timing cover.

    [​IMG]

    This method does work on the MTX pulley too, but because the MTX pulleys backside isnt as wide as it front its a little more complicated to get the clamp on good and tight.

    I've used this method on both of my SHOs(ATX & MTX) and doing it this way i can leave the car up on the jack stands and dont need anybody else helping me.
     
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  2. boat

    boat Likes blue ones

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    You mean these:

    [​IMG]

    Or this one:

    [​IMG]

    Got these from Bizzy back when I had my ATX about 4 years ago. ;)

    These were done by Eric Vervalin and I when we did the front 60k on my same 95 ATX, except we used like a 30mm socket, something big and fat. :)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Irish Pride likes this.
  3. Toolman

    Toolman Boost it! Staff Member

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    :snicker:
     
  4. SHOtimer

    SHOtimer #2910

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    Nice write up!

    I've always just used a strap wrench against the AC compressor pulley, and that has always worked fine.

    Doug
     
  5. zach44102

    zach44102 ALL MOTER

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    I just shove a wrench inbetween the flywheel and trans.
     
  6. Irish Pride

    Irish Pride Irish Inside Staff Member

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    This is what i originally came across that gave me the guidelines of what to do. Before i saw this i had no idea how i was gonna torque it.

    The only difference between this and what i do is my way uses the bottom of the engine for leverage and not the frame of the car. If done properly the c-clamp will not even touch the car.
     
  7. hawkeye18

    hawkeye18 Sorta cares

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    >flywheel

    >ATX

    Doh.jpg
     
  8. SHOtimer

    SHOtimer #2910

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    It's a flexplate, and that's a good way to eff up the teeth.

    Doug
     
  9. JRA2000TL

    JRA2000TL The Complainer

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    Or if you have a decent compressor, buy the HF Earthquake impact gun, fire up the compressor, install 19mm air socket and place onto bolt, pull trigger for about 5 seconds. :) Sorry, had to be sarcastic but good advice for those using manual tools.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012

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