how to reset the idle?

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by rktmn, Apr 30, 2003.

  1. Anne Timbers

    Anne Timbers SHO Member

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    idle

    My 94 is at 800, when it drops lower that that when in drive and stopped is will drop down to around 600 and my oil light will start flashing, put it into neutral and it brings the rpms back up to normal. What do I have to do to keep it at the 800 range when stopped?
     
  2. 92SHOmine_since_new

    92SHOmine_since_new SHO Member

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    I'm sure I'll be flamed for doing the wrong thing, but my '92 went to the dealer twice in it's early years for low idle speed; would actually die when going around a corner. Was never solved by them. I then tweaked the painted screw on the TB that looks like it's an idle adjustment screw (but is not) about 1/8 turn...that's all. No more problem.
     
  3. Axianator

    Axianator I am a banana!

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    The factory rev limiter for your '93 H3Zx in Park and Neutral, Jason, comes on at 4000 rpms and turns off at 3875 rpms.

    Once the car is moving, the factory rev limiter for all Gen 2 ATXs in any forward gear is 7000 rpms.

    For one, it doesn't help that the drive idle for all Gen 2 ATX's is already pretty low from the factory (704 rpms at hot idle).

    Out of curiosity, Anne, have you tried "resetting your computer" using the procedures outlined earlier in this post?
     
  4. Stracey R

    Stracey R SHO Member

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    Idle Problem

    I've attempted the Idle Reset procedure.

    The problem Im having is, when I am driving normally, the car seems to surge a bit when the heat is on. When on idle, the needle jumps from 800 rpm to 700 rpm and back and forth.

    Anyone ever had this problem?

    Thanks
     
  5. pete c

    pete c SHO Member

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    Over the last year and a half or so, I've had problems with the idle. My A/C compressor locked up about that time, followed quickly by the AC clutch quitting as it attempted to spin the comp. The damn OL was driving it at the time, I would have shut it down before the clutch went!

    I wonder if the lack of a compressor load is causing problems? Maybe I should not bother with turning the AC to max while setting the idle as it might be confusing things. I am sure there are plenty of you out there with disconnected AC comps. Do you have idle issues?

    How 'bout engine temp? Does it matter if this is done with a cold or hot engine?

    Finally, why the hell does Ford use such a retarded idle program. I have never heard of this being an issue with other FI engines. My wife's merc villager (nissan) has no such problems. Why didn't the dunces at Ford just let yamaha take care of the engine management as well?
     
  6. Redline

    Redline Fire It Up

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    YES! You are not alone! Look here:
    http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=40050
     
  7. rwooten

    rwooten SHO Member

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    My tachometer stops working all the time. Is that the TPS going bad?
     
  8. phantom93atxntx

    phantom93atxntx SHO Member

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    ive been having that problem too wooten........when it stops working does the engine light come on and its also hard to stop.........i been led to believe that it is because the crank position sensor is going out....so im in the middle of replacing mine.............ive never had so much trouble gettin a harmonic balancer off before.i swear mine was torqued to about 300 lbs........i finally had to take an air chisel to it kinda sideways for about 10 mins to break it loose aparently the guy before me took it off ans whn replacing put thread lock on it :shrug:
     
  9. maverick80911

    maverick80911 SHO Member

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    i just bought a 1993 taurus sho and am wondering how i would get the thermostoat to work correctly because my temperature gauge barely moves off of colod even after being ran for 30 minutes any help is appreciated
     
  10. SHOMADMAX

    SHOMADMAX Speed Demond!

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    I have.
     
  11. Eastcoast SHO

    Eastcoast SHO SHO

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    when my 94 mtx idles low at like 800-900 rpms i hear a little knocking its not the bottom end but its very faint and when i give it gas and the rpms go up to 1000 the knocking disappears can anyone tell me what this is........sorry if this has been asked before but i am a new owner of an SHO only had it for a month now thank you in advanced
     
    LOUDSHO92 likes this.
  12. haydenm315

    haydenm315 SHO Member

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    I've had problems with my car stalling only when the ac compressor is on. After I replaced the battery it went away. I probably had a smaller battery than factory recommended. I wonder if this plays a part? My car is now butter even with the ac on. I reset the idle numerous times with the old battery and still had problems with the ac on.. With the new battery... no problems. ..

    Low voltage probably leads to a number of problems. I've pulsed the abs light after being jump started. I can only conclude, a weak battery can send a number of signals that can make you think there is more wrong than there really is.
     
  13. tanstaafl.

    tanstaafl. SHO Member

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    This is not an uncommon problem, and the solution is easy and relatively inexpensive. You must replace the thermostat. It is fortunate that the normal failure mode of the SHO thermostat is in the "open" mode, as you are better off having the engine run too cool than to overheat!
     
  14. tanstaafl.

    tanstaafl. SHO Member

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    I'm afraid my idle needs more than a simple reset

    I have an idle speed problem in my 1993 SHO ATX station wagon (yes, it is a SHO wagon!) that just began a few days ago.

    The car was running perfectly, I turned it off, and when I restarted it an hour later it began idling at 3500 RPM. This is a bit faster than normal, I think.:)

    The first thing I did was disconnect the battery and let the computer reset itself. Upon reconnection, it still idled at 3500 RPM.

    Probably not a computer/idle setting problem, then.

    The throttle linkage operates smoothly and does not stick, and the throttle plate actuator comes to a rest against the factory-set throttle stop screw. Just as a test I backed the throttle stop screw away from its normal setting so that the throttle plate could close complete, and there was no change. (I then put it back to its original setting.)

    Probably not a throttle linkage problem, then.

    I have checked for vacuum leaks: I can find no disconnected or damaged vacuum hoses; I have removed the intake plenum and examined the intake manifold gaskets, they appear to be good; and I sprayed propane from an unlit propate torch around the intake system while the engine was running and there was no change in RPMs.

    Probably not a vacuum leak, then.

    SWMBO* drove the car home after this behavior started, and said that the check engine light came on and off intermittantly.

    At this point about the only thing I can think is that some sensor somewhere has failed, and that is beyond the scope of my knowledge to deal with.

    Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated.

    *SWMBO: She Who Must Be Obeyed
     
  15. TOBMA

    TOBMA SHO Member

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    Thanks for the info It worked like a charm the first time. I have been trying to get my car to idle for a week.
     
  16. llamaking122

    llamaking122 Green Machine

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    check your coolant
     
  17. Rythymaxe

    Rythymaxe 91+

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    I just replaced the iacv because the intermintent dying problem turned into an all time surging and then losing rpms until it dies when stopping. After reading more of this post, I realize I didn't try to reset the EMU after changing it, and still it surges and dies. Also, a new happy symptom of it going up to 2000 at idle and staying there manifested itself. I used to love this car. Also installed wiper motor only to find it was the multi function switch, so I replaced that. The wipers and washer, turn signals work great. Now, if I can only stop the surging and dying. The other IACV looked sooty, so I do believe I needed that changed and did so. I hope resetting the computer makes a diff....!!##$$#!! Maybe the TPS?
     
  18. frosho

    frosho WOLFMAN

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    Start a thread of your own in the maintenance section. For now, my best advice is to check for vacuum leaks, clean the MAF (and clean it PROPERLY - remove the sensor from the housing and spray down the filaments with MAF cleaner), and reset the idle.
     

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