How to: remove engine/tranny/subframe assembly- 56k no way

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by 93silverbulletSH0, Jun 28, 2007.

  1. 93silverbulletSH0

    93silverbulletSH0 SHO Member

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    I was surprised to find there was not a write-up on engine/tranny removal, so here is my attempt at one.

    From searching I found there was some debate on the forum as to the best way to go about this- the top or the bottom. I decided that it would be easier for my purposes to drop it out the bottom engine, tranny, sub frame, and all. From thinking about it I would say there is less to disconnect when doing it this way, but I’m not sure.

    Here was my starting point. I already removed the intake, which isn’t absolutely necessary if you can get your car high enough, but it is very nice to have it out of the way when disconnecting necessary items from the firewall, more on that later.

    [​IMG]

    Start by disconnecting everything necessary. I don’t have a definitive list because there is so much little stuff. Basically if it is attached to both the body and either the engine, tranny, or sub frame, directly or indirectly it needs to be disconnected.

    Here is an overview. For write-up purposes I’ll start at the bottom, and work my way up the firewall, over the top, and to the front. When actually working I followed no order.

    Drain radiator, and remove lower radiator hose

    Soak y-pipe studs, the o2’s, and y-pipe to cat-back spring bolts with PB blaster. I let it sit overnight and only needed a breaker bar on one of the nuts. Remove oxygen sensors connectors, then remove them from the y-pipe. Remove the 4 nuts and two nuts/bolts holding y-pipe on and remove y-pipe.

    Remove the shift knob. Remove rod shifter stabilizer bolt, shift shaft nut and bolt, then remove the two nuts behind the rod shifter box, and take the rod shift assembly out.

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    If you are removing the transmission it is a good idea to remove the tranny to oil pan bolts, as they will be difficult to access once the assembly is dropped.

    Remove the steering rack to steering shaft u-joint. This can be a bit difficult to access. I started working on it from the passenger compartment, but found it easier to access from the drivers wheel well. You may need to turn the wheels to access the 10mm bolt, I believe mine were turned slightly to the left for best access. I removed the whole thing since I already had the upper part removed; I don’t believe this is necessary.

    [​IMG]

    Pic of u-joint?

    Remove brake lines from the caliper, or take the calipers off and fasten them to the body. Disconnect the ABS sensors at the plug just inside the engine compartment, and remove the wires from their mounts on the body.

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    Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core

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    Remove engine harness from ECU, and the necessary surrounding little plugs and grounds. There is also a ground strap that goes from the passenger rear intake bolt to the firewall. Remove fuel lines using the proper tool.

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    Remove the two torque dampeners attached to the strut towers.

    Remove power steering lines from reservoir.

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    Remove strut nuts. I tied the struts to some brackets on the engine/tranny to keep them from falling over and stressing the ball joints

    Disconnect necessary plugs at drivers side of engine bay. This is something you will have to see for yourself, as it would have been to difficult for me to document and photo everything that needs to be disconnected. The more you disconnect, the more it will become apparent what else needs to be disconnected. The above also applies to the electrical that needs to be disconnected near the ECU and the front of the engine bay. Don’t worry too much about missing something, more on that later.

    [​IMG]

    Remove upper radiator hose.

    Disconnect the two large wires and one necessary small wire from the starter solenoid (GEN 1). Disconnect battery cables and remove battery. I left the starter in place with the wires connected to it.

    Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the cruise control actuator. I believe there is also one electrical connector to disconnect here if not already done per above.

    Disconnect necessary electrical connections at the front of the engine bay.

    Remove radiator, fan, and over-flow bottle.

    I already had my a/c system evacuated, so I removed the hoses from the compressor. If you want to maintain your charge, you may be able to leave the hoses intact and remove the whole compressor, and tuck it forward out of the way.

    [​IMG]

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    Double-check that you have disconnected everything necessary. If you miss something, it is not a big deal it will become apparent as you lift the car.

    Lower the car so that the sub frame sits on your support. I used two 30x18 1000lb. furniture dollies from harbor freight. They are the perfect size and $16 apiece. You may want to use something a bit more stout. See disclaimer.

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    The front looks like it is not well supported, but there is a lip that comes down and sits nicely on the dolly

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    [​IMG]

    Be very careful when the whole front of the car is resting on the dollies, they are right at their weight limit at this point, and the way the sub frame sits on them the load isn’t evenly distributed over the dollies, so parts of the dolly are probably past the recommended limit. See disclaimer.

    Remove 4 sub frame bolts (PB plaster helps)

    Start lifting the car. A lift would be ideal, but I used two jacks. I started with one on the core support below the radiator. I used a 32in 2x4 along the bottom to distribute the load to the jack, so as not to bend the metal. Start slowly and periodically stop to check for things you may have missed. I forgot what is circled and the brake lines. :doh:

    [​IMG]

    Make sure there is clearance everywhere as you continue to lift. The dollies or the car can easily be adjusted to give clearance at this point.

    [​IMG]

    Once you max out the jack in the front. Support the car with jack stands and put one jack on each of the quasi-frame-rails.

    Once you get the car high enough to roll the assembly out the side, support the car with jack stands. I barely had clearance. If you need more you can move the jacks further to the rear to get extra lift, or just use a 2x4 spacer.

    Roll her out!

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    Disclaimer- I am in no way responsible for any damage to your car, property, you, or those working with you if you choose to follow this outline. This is merely a guideline, it is up to you to take the proper safety precautions. Be safe, be smart.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2007
  2. Devin

    Devin SHO owner

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    Nice write up. I pulled my engine the same way, but with much more disasterous results because I didn't know what I was doing.

    Thanks for that last picture. I've been trying to find a good shot of the power steering hose routing. Does your return line go to a cooler or just straight into the pump?
     
  3. supersport

    supersport SHO Member

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    there are so many wires and tubes and sensors...y cant engines be simpler like back in the day where everything was easy too fix :(
     
  4. 93silverbulletSH0

    93silverbulletSH0 SHO Member

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    I believe it goes from the reservoir, throught the fat hose to the pump, through the hard/soft line to the rack, through another hard/soft line to the cooler, and finally through the smaller hose back to the reservoir.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2007
  5. 93rev2sev

    93rev2sev SHO Member

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    Wow in the first picture, your core support says e809

    Is that an early '89 SHO?
     
  6. 93silverbulletSH0

    93silverbulletSH0 SHO Member

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    Its an early 90, it is hard to see in the picture but it actually says FODB.
     
  7. 1993MTXSHO

    1993MTXSHO Its a Taurus...

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    +1 on that!:salute:

    BTW awesome write up, I think you just gave me the best idea ever, i may install my new engine that way that should make things a lot easier.

    EDIT: btw guys heres how its done

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=8K8-JQkHd44
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2007
  8. crazy_canadian

    crazy_canadian Rattle-Mobile

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    Where's the rust ? :oogle:
    I'm jealous!
     
  9. n8rsk8r

    n8rsk8r Hey Where's my post?

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    I kid you not, I was just thinking about this on the way home from getting some grub! :thumb: AWESOME!!! Was even wondering if anyone ever thought of a dolly type deal that would bolt onto the sub frame points, you even had a solution for the dolly! HaHa thanks man!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2007
  10. Shoaz

    Shoaz Studly dood

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    FWIW, it's even easier if you leave the struts and knuckles behind. If you don't need to pull them out, IMHO it's easier to leave them attached to the car.
     
  11. Shoman594

    Shoman594 Moderator Staff Member

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    Very nice write up, props!!! :hail:


    Oh no what happened ???
     
  12. itln.stln

    itln.stln 1994 ATX SHO

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    Nice write up Kyle :thumb: I vote for a Sticky :naughty:
     
  13. 1slickRED89

    1slickRED89 SHO Member

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    exactly, its going to be tough to get the pinch bolt out as well as the axle nut, for repair work its easier to work when the struts are bolted on the car. not a big deal though. for speedy engine removal I would unbolt the struts from the top, much quicker that undoing all the connections on the knuckle.

    I have been wanting to try furniture dollies for this operation, rather than my homemade cart with its old, broken caster wheels, nice!!
     
  14. Devin

    Devin SHO owner

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    Destroyed the CVs, lost a bunch of hardware, didn't label anything, et cetera. Just a bunch of avoidable mistakes.
     
  15. Bizzy

    Bizzy Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice write-up. :thumb:

    Moved to the "How do I?" section and stuck.
     
  16. SHOZ123

    SHOZ123 SHO Member

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    When I did mine on the V8 I used and engine hoist to lift the car with a chain wrapped around the steel front bumper.

    [​IMG]]

    First lowering it onto the dolly then removing the subframe bolts and lifting the body up.

    I also leave the struts in the car but keep the knuckles attached. The axles can easily be driven out of the (Gen 3) knuckles by putting the knuckle in a vise and pounding the axle out of the bearing. Again with the Gen 3 remove the two motor mount nuts on the passenger side as they will be difficult to access when on a dolly.

    [​IMG]

    Also if the tranny is an ATX pump out the fluid first using the cooler hoses. This will keep the spillage of fluid to a minimum when removing the axles and TC. Be sure to remove the TC nuts while the engine is accessible form the bottom.

    The last time I did this I dropped the subframe with the Y pipe still attached. Lifted the subframe up with engine, tranny and Y pipe and supported it with 4 jack stands. To me it was easier to deal with the TC nuts and Y pipe this way. Especially on reassembly.
     
  17. supersteve

    supersteve SHO Member

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    This was very useful guide.

    I was able to do the steering u-joint inside the car on the driver side floor which i found to be quite easy
     
  18. BlooDSMeaR

    BlooDSMeaR SHO Member

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    Well, I'm doing a double transplant. I have a 93 with a great body paint and interior blown motor. I just picked up a carfax verified 25k 93. The body is roached and the interior is striped. I'm going to drop the compete sub frame motor assembly's and swap em out . I don't think ill reinstall the motor in the 25k mile body. I'll put that in the garage and save it for later. The body will be gone Monday night. I better get off my ass and get busy.

    THANK YOU FOR THIS WRITE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2013

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