C.I.D Removal w/ Pics. MTX/ATX cars.

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by SASHO91, Sep 27, 2007.

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  1. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    I Have noticed that many members have had some issues when trying to replace the CID (Cam Sensor), which is located on the rear (right) bank, on the exhaust cam. This is due to the fact that space is limited in that area, and most of us don't have hands of a 5year old. These pictures were taken on my 93'.
    Here is the tool list:
    1/4'' Drive Ratchet
    1/4'' Extensions (at a minimum, 2-3 4'' units; the pics will explain)
    1/4'' 5/32'' socket
    1/4'' swivel

    NOTE: If your car has been lowered, you may need to raise the passenger side slightly to gain access to the fender well.
    Grab your tools(and connect them properly), and follow the pics.

    --Here we are looking through the passenger wheel well. Notice the strut/spring. As you can see through the small hole, you have access to the rear, P.I.T.A, CID bolt.
    [​IMG]
    --Here we can see our tools connected together, and inserted into the small hole in picture 1. Notice that going through the strut/spring is a direct shot. If you do not have access to long extensions, you may be able to use just one short extension and use the ratchet close to the unibody.
    [​IMG]
    --Finally, a picture from inside the engine bay. Self-explanatory there... ;)
    [​IMG]

    As for the 'front' bolt, you can use the swivel and get to that one as well.

    For ATX cars; This method is not needed as much as on the MTX. Reason being, the ATX engine sits farther forward, which in turn makes for a slightly easier access to the CID. I HAVE used this method on ATX cars, mainly because of the ease of the removall/install. If you do use this method on an ATX car, you WILL need a swivel regaurdless, and the front bolt will be slightly harder to get to (due to the location of the engine).
     
    VADERSHO, LeddZepp8687, Bizzy and 4 others like this.
  2. Storm-Chaser

    Storm-Chaser SHO Member

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    So, . . . .

    . . . . where's the rest of the write-up on replacing the cam sensor seal, since you're usually replacing the sensor due to a leaky seal . . . ?
     
  3. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    Not trying to sound like an @$$..... But just reverse the process. Also, the title of the tread is Removal. :thumb: I figured installation would be a given.
     
  4. Storm-Chaser

    Storm-Chaser SHO Member

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    [in my best Southpark voice-over]

    " , . . . . sorry dude, just bustin' some balls . . . . " [/voice-over]


    In all seriousness, that technique looks great, but you know some newby is going to see this and ask this very question. Thought you might have the pictures of the cam seal replacement and the PVC tool that you could add, as that would be grounds for sticky-status.


    Btw, what digital camera did you use to get that bolt-through-the-strut-spring photo? Oh, and great job on the new through-the-strut technique.
     
  5. Mr95Gl

    Mr95Gl Mr Tire Iron

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    That's weird. I have those exact same pictures saved in a word document named "cam removal". Did you/was this posted before?
     
  6. Phoenix

    Phoenix SHOHOLIC

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    Great find :thumb:

    Mr95gl your sig quote is the funney. :snicker:
     
  7. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    Well, the cam seal has been covered in the front 60k write-up on ShoPhoenix.com . So I figured that would be a waste of time. Plus, this was from 2+years ago... :nut: I've posted it a few times, but never really did a "full" write-up (per-se) on it. I relize this is no in-depth write-up, but OTOH, changing the CID isn't THAT hard, ya know.... But I do see your point about the newby looking for more info. But then again, if he/she can't figure out the difference between a C.I.D sensor , and a Cam Seal , then IMO, they shouldn't be near the car.
    As far as the DC goes, IIRC, it was a Sony w/ 5.1mp... But I have long since got rid of that camera.

    Yessir. :wave:
     
  8. HoustinoJillian

    HoustinoJillian name's JUSTIN

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    erm when i did this a long time ago on my 89 i just used a normal socket/ratchet with no extensions, stuck my hand down there and did it from the top. of course it only went like 2 clicks at a time, but you don't have to go through the fenderwell if (like me) you don't have any of those extensions. you don;t have to have the hands of a 5 year old, you just need ot get creative with how you hold the ratchet, and be ok with skinning your knuckles. :thumb:


    in light of this new way, however... i'd probably just go buy some extensions
     
  9. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    I (as well as everyone else here) too use to do it that way... But I kept on tearing up my knuckles, and whatnot....

    Anywho, it's there to use if you need it. :thumb:
     
  10. Mrhappytuzi

    Mrhappytuzi SHO Graveyard

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    i thought these were kind of easy to do?:brainfart:
     
  11. smokin joe

    smokin joe SHO Member

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    They are but the space is very limited and sucks to get into
     
  12. blownatx95

    blownatx95 Minnesho on an alternate user name

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    its actually a lot easier to do on a ATX vs a MTX
     
  13. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    That's been established.

     
  14. LeddZepp8687

    LeddZepp8687 The Keg Rider

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    I did one on my ATX when i did the front 60k. That was no biggie since everything was already out of the way.

    I did however do one on an MTX when everything was still assembled. Now that was a B***H! I never knew of this method.

    Veryyy Niicceeeee
     
  15. LeddZepp8687

    LeddZepp8687 The Keg Rider

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    yes it has. I did mine on my ATX when I did the Front 60k. That was a breeze. I did one on another ATX with everything still assembled and that was still rather easy.

    I did one on an MTX. Wow, that was a PITA, I didnt know of this access hole in the fenderwell, that would have made it alot easier.

    Verryyyy Niiceee thread.
     
  16. K-Dawg

    K-Dawg SHO Member

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    I tried this method today and it sucked.

    I found it much easier to just remove two of the bolts on the torque damper and remove the bolt for the power steering resevoir. Pull both of those back out of the way and there is plenty of room to get in there.

    Start to finish it was probably less than a 10 minute job.
     
  17. SHOtime2511

    SHOtime2511 CGP

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    X2 :angelnot:
     
  18. T.O_SHO

    T.O_SHO Power Hungry

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    Do they actually expect you to get a torque wrench into there? Is there any specified torque for the bolts when reassembling?
     
  19. K-Dawg

    K-Dawg SHO Member

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    I just tighten them until they are tight.

    Also, a 5.5 mm fits better than a 5/32".
     
  20. Storm-Chaser

    Storm-Chaser SHO Member

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    The SAE analog for the 5.5mm socket is 7/32" . . . .
     
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